350 to a 383

[Stroked it]

Ok i've got a 350 (who dosn't) but i really want to make it to a 383. What do i have to do to it??? What parts will i need? Will this take machining, and if so, how much will the whole lot cost, (built good). Any input would help.

Peace

[MrPbody]

You will need: A 400 crankshaft (SBC) with the mains ground to fit in the 350 block (BTW, I don't have a 350. Well, I do, but not my own use, but for guys like you, that WANT a Chevy, so no, not EVERYBODY has one...(:-). Also, a set of 400 rods would make the 350 pistons fit, but you're better off to use the 350 rods and a set of pistons MADE for a 383 with the 5.7" rod.
You might consider the several makes of kits out there for this application. We use the Eagle kit, as it has all the good stuff without compromise. There are cast cranks and forged cranks readily available aftermarket. Avoid the cheapie cast "steel" cranks, and do not confuse them with the "forged" steel cranks, which are the cranks people are refering to when they say "Steel".
There is a significant amount of clearance issues in the crankcase, and between the cam lobes and the rod bolts. This portion is best left to an experienced builder.
Be warned. Cheaper is NOT better, especially when you're changing things around like this. And getting by will only get you in deeper. Do it right and be done with it.
If you have high performance and high RPM in mind, use ONLY a forged crankshaft. If it's a street machine, more for fun than serious performance, use the Chevy crank, modified to fit. If it's a pickup, that will never see 5,000 RPM, go ahead and use the cheepie chuggers from China.
If you would give a little more detail about the intended use, I could be more specific. Just finished a short block for a local. It's going in a '62 "box" Nova (Chevy II). Nice piece. He still hasn't decided which heads, but he's spent $3,600 to date. That includes his short block, oil pan and windage tray, and timing cover. It has the Eagle kit with H-beams, forged crank and SRP forged pistons. NOTE: the H-beam rods take a little of the trouble out, as they make it easier to "clearance" everything.

[-Josh-]

If your not trained in how to take on a task like this or if you wont have professional help, follow these guidelines:

1. Keep block for something else
2. Save up $5500
3. Order Scoggin Dickey catalog
4. Buy SDZZ383 from catalog for a price that your local dealer couldn't even do. Roughly around $4700.
5. Buy appropriate Intake manifold and carburetor from catalog, the extra 800 should cover it.

Do this and you'll have a stroker that puts out around 425 horsepower. Good luck

[blkthunder]

you do not have to grind a crank any more. Just go online and there are companies who make 383 stroker rotating assemblies (crank, rods, pistons, ect...) that you can install in your 350 without changing the rest of the motor. Companies like scatenterprises.comand others are good. Also buy the book how to build big-inch chevy small blocks, you can go from 350 to 383 all the way up to 454 with your 350 the book is very informative. try putting 383 stroker engine on the internet and there is tons of info. you will have to machine the block for clearance, very important. good luck

[Deadcarny]

SCAT makes a great crank for the money, but you pay a little more getting it balanced since they usually have to load a couple slugs of mallory metal into it. You will need a 3.75 stroke crank. 5.7 or 6" rods, and Pistons made for the proper stroke and rod length you are using. Depending on your block and your choice of crank and rods, you may need to clearance the block so nothing hits.

[MrPbody]

Our experience with the Scat and C.A.T. (same same) cranks are that the cast ones flex far too much over 4,500 RPM, to make them dependable. The forgings, while quite tough, are also quite heavy, as alluded to by deadcarny regarding the balancing issue.
Lunati, Crower, Eagle, and others, offer good forgings. Some are more reasonably prioced than others. As previously stated, if you want a cast crank, use the Chevy factory crank and have it ground. The others are doorstops. The forgings vary a bit in price and durability, but in general, are all much better than the castings. Talk to the crank people about your performance requirements, and how thier offerings fit your needs.

[Deadcarny]

Originally Posted by MrPbody

Our experience with the Scat and C.A.T. (same same) cranks are that ..... The forgings, while quite tough, are also quite heavy, as alluded to by deadcarny regarding the balancing issue.

Yup. I think the guy that balanced my assembly said he put 3 slugs in or something! For the price, they are strong and good as long as it balances easily. I have actually heard of some that have enough mallory to be almost as costly as a good eagle Forging!