Engine Startup Problems, Lots of Clicking!

[stephiep]

Hi All,

I went to start up my Kia Sportage just now (2.0L Manual, 1996), and it wouldn't start. I would turn the key all the way and nothing. Then I turned the key and held it in all the way. First nothing, and then a few seconds later the truck started. I had to hold the key all the way in for at least 5 seconds before getting any response.

However, after I got home, I tried the same thing again, now after a few seconds, that are becoming progressively longer every time I try to start, I get a rapid clicking noise coming from under the hood, sounds like (but can't be sure) it's coming from a little black box in front of the battery, not real sure what that is. Had the starter replaced a couple of months ago. Have tried giving it a gentle tap.

If I don't turn the key all the way, the dash lights come on, the electric windows work and seem to have a lot of power, it's only when I turn the key all the way, everything seems to loose power.

I would greatly appreciate any help!

Thanks,
Stephanie...

[-Jay-]

Dear Sophie,

I am currently experiencing exactly the same problem with my kia sportage 1997, I have found your message on this forum. Could you please help me to understand what's wrong with my car?

Thank you very much in advance for your help,

Jay

[kyle95g20]

get a new battery...both of you. your batteries have enough poer to run the accessories but are not producing enough cold cranking amps (cca's) to turn the car over.

[LMP]

With cars 7 and 8 year old, you have probably got a new battery since the car was new. A faulty battery will not wait 5 sec to crank the car : it will not crank at all. Check the connections to the battery poles. What you say is typical of a loose or corroded battery connection.
There are other wilder possililities, but check for that first and come back.


Steph! I read your final reply dec 16: thanks . LMP

[kyle95g20]

no really...a battery will do that.

i have experienced this problem first hand on some of my own cars and do kia warranty work for a living everyday.

[stephiep]

Thanks for your input as always Kyle. I know it was quite some time ago, but maybe someone searching for this topic will benefit from the resolution. I did go and buy a new battery, but the problem still persisted. The resolutiuon was something even easier and simpler, the connections had become corroded, a mechanic simply scraped the corrosion off, and it fired up like new, plus I didn't get charged

[Walmart_special]

I had a similar problem as well after I replaced my starter (@ 145K mi)

Sometime it starts, sometimes it does not. Battery is fine, and push starts without any problems (manual)

Mechanics are all stumped.

Finally, I figure it out it was just the electrical connector to the starter... It is loose and does not provide good contact. A pinch later with a nose piler fix the problem.

[Aiieee]

I too had this problem. While in the dealership for some new knuckles and berrings due to the typical vacuum hub problems, the shop tried to get me to replace my starter when they noticed the clicking starter. I couldn't afford to replace it (nor did I think that the starter itself was the problem) and when they put my starter back on (they had already taken it off) the mechanic apparently fixed the problem... a loose wiring connection. No charge.

Seems that the sportage starter is very fussy - any low or intermittent power and it will make that clicking noise. Its like the starter keeps changing it mind several times a second while you try to turn it over.

All of the posts I have read so far on this clicking starter seem to be problems other than the starter itself. Be wary if a dealership automatically tries to get you to replace your starter.

[valberg]

I am currently facing the same problem with my 1997 Sportage. It started with a click and no action when starting it warm, then the scrolling of the startermotor. I´ve just found your postings here and am going to try using your advice.

Cheers,
Valberg

[LMP]

On this forum and others, several have complained of battery/charging/cranking problems. It was often suggested by myself and other forum participants to check for corrosion on cables and connection at battery. While long time experience shows this is a pervasive problem, a very recent experience proved me it was even more than I would have expected.
With a 5-6 year old battery, I was not surprised I would have starting problems so while the car was left in the garage for the winter time, I did not care much. When I tried to start it recently, I found a "dead" battery. Charged it , but it would barely crank, or not at all.
Convinced it was finally the time to buy a new battery, I removed the battery. I tried another used battery I had – to no avail ???!!!...skip a few details...but finally I discovered (before going for a new battery) that the side connector (this is my other car- side connectors) – the cable end that connects to the battery positive pole – was covered with a whitish substance. Digging into that, a washer like shape was totally corroded and turned into a hard pressed lead oxide powder coat nearly 1/8 inch thick that was everything except an electrical conductor. It was VERY hard to dislodge ; I finally got back to neat copper, and reconnected it to the battery and suddenly I had all the power I needed for starting .
This is very insidious because contrary to top battery connector where we can have some visual cues about corrosion, this one was totally invisible to the naked eye and even a quick glance at the connector – notice it is not in a place for an easy eye capture, even with battery removed – would not reveal something obvious.
So, I got my lesson again: if it clicks, buzzes, does not crank and all lights go dead, DOUBLE CHECK BATTERY CONNECTORS.