92 Lesabre starts sometimes

[3echo9]

Anyone know what might cause the car to run fine one moment and then just not want to start the next. I was at a parts store looking for options to get the A/C running again and it took awhile to start up. The next morning it wouldn't fire at all. Cranks fine but seems like no spark. Fuel pressure checked out fine. I replaced all of the plugs, wires and coils....getting a code 17 and 66 if that helps.

[3echo9]

Looks like the trouble codes point to the Crankshaft Position Sensor. It's behind the crankshaft pulley. I've tried to remove the bolt with an air wrench with 250 fl/lbs of torque with no luck. Any suggestions???

[timrice]

Getting the pulley out was the hardest part when I changed a crank sensor out on my '89. Hammered away on it with the pneumatic wrench for a while and about gave up, but ended up getting out a big cheater bar, wrench, and socket, and that finally busted it free.

At least your ECM will *report* a crank sensor code!! The ECM in my '95 lied to me--set a *cam* sensor code when the problem was really with the crank sensor. (See the whole 11-week saga on the "95 LeSabre Dies Without Warning" thread.)

[3echo9]

Great thread on your 95. I have done a lot of surfing on that trouble code. The cps is def the bad guy here. I was wondering how you kept the pulley from turning while you cranked down on the breaker bar? I stuck a big screwdriver through one of the pulleys above, leaving the serp belt installed. It helps but I still get a little movement. I've heard suggestions like heat the bolt to melt any anti-sieze but am leary with all of the old oil and other flamable material close by. Maybe I need to revert to my Air Force training. First use a hammer and if that doesn't work get a bigger hammer.

As to the installation of the Crank Pos Sens. I read a post from a tech who recomended making a spacer tool from a plastic milk jug. Just cut a piece about 5-6 inches and make sure you can slip it between both sides of the cps.

[timrice]

Hmm...I don't recall if I came up with a really good way to hold that pulley in one place or not. Sorry, it's just been too long.

Let us know how your repair goes.

[timrice]

Under the "Vibration Dampener Removal" section in my Haynes manual, it says: "Remove the lower bellhousing cover plate and hold the crankshaft with GM tool J37096 or equivalent, or position a large screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to keep the crankshaft from turning while an assistant removes the crankshaft balancer bolt. The bolt is normally quite tight, so use a large breaker bar and a six-point socket."

[3echo9]

Originally Posted by timrice

Under the "Vibration Dampener Removal" section in my Haynes manual, it says: "Remove the lower bellhousing cover plate and hold the crankshaft with GM tool J37096 or equivalent, or position a large screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to keep the crankshaft from turning while an assistant removes the crankshaft balancer bolt. The bolt is normally quite tight, so use a large breaker bar and a six-point socket."

Great suggestion. I've got the same Haynes book. I'll give a shot. Thanks!!

[3echo9]

Tim..

that worked....thanks. I had to improvise with the breaker bar. The 18in one I had didn't do the job. I used the handle from my floor jack to extend the breaker bar to about 3 feet and that did it. Now that I got that bolt off the book says the Dampener should pull off by hand. I've tried tapping around it with a hammer but didn't have any luck freeing it up. I don't want to damage it and the pulley remover I have is too small to fit into the bolts hole. I'll give it another go later tonight and post the results. Thanks again.

[3echo9]

Got er done. Had to improvise with some .25 in bolts for the pulley. It didn't come with them. Anyway all is well and hopefully she won't die on me any more. On to the next project.

[3echo9]

It's been a week and still going strong.