IAC Valve Location

frankt3 · #1 07-19-2004, 06:55 PM

I just came back from a 600 mile trip. While on vacation my van wouldn't idle at slow speeds and stalled. As the engine warmed it ran fine. This went on for 2 days now it stalls even if the engine is warm. I was told it might be the IAC valve. I'm not sure where it's located, so any help would be great.

Frank

busboy4 · #2 07-19-2004, 07:28 PM

Hi
The IAC, idle air controller is located on top of the throttle body. It has a cylindrical metal body with an electrical connector at the end. It is held on with two screws and is easy to remove. I have taken mine off and cleaned the ports before with an old toothbrush and a bit of carburetor cleaner. Now, with that said, I will tell you Ford says not to use carburetor cleaner and that the IAC cannot be cleaned and must be replaced. Well, I cleaned it a couple of times, as have other forum members and have been o.k.. I would just handle it carefully and not saturate it with the cleaner.

Good Luck

frankt3 · #3 07-19-2004, 07:44 PM

The Check Engine light has been on for several months. Do you think this will fix the problem?

Frank

busboy4 · #4 07-19-2004, 08:16 PM

Well, could be. If you can get to an autozone or similar establishment they can read the code for you. P505 - P509 deal with idle control. I had an idle problem early on that was the throtlle position sensor. P120-124 for that.
Having those codes read would be the best first step. Either component is fairly easy to change.
Let us know what you find.

busboy4 · #5 07-19-2004, 08:19 PM

BTW
Napa has the IAC for $41 and the TPS for $24

frankt3 · #6 07-19-2004, 09:10 PM

Good news, I took it off and cleaned it with electronic/lub cleaner and it now runs great! Thanks to all.

Frank

sbendigo · #7 10-14-2004, 11:04 AM

..My wife's 2000 windstar has been making a rattling sound during acceleration for the past few months and has been getting worse, until this morning when the car won't stay started. She starts it and it sounds like it has emphysema, it tries to stay started but within 30 seconds to a minute it stalls.

I will try replacing the IAC and TPS tonight.

do you think possible fuel fiter?
R there any other sensors or vavles I should check?
Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance,

Scott
BTW: the FORD dealer was the cheapest place I could find the IAC ($95) and all other auto parts stores said they would have a 2 day shipping time. NAPA (here in Virginia) said they couldn't even get it. Strange. Thanks again for all your help!

12Ounce · #8 10-14-2004, 01:52 PM

sbendigo
Try replacing the fuel pump relay with a new one. Approx $8 at Ford... may be avail in the aftermarket. Refer to glovebox manual for relay loction.

sbendigo · #9 10-14-2004, 02:02 PM

thanks for the quick reply. would it benefit me to just go ahead and change all 3?

thanks again

12Ounce · #10 10-14-2004, 03:00 PM

sbendigo
I'm not sure what you mean by "all 3". On my '99 the fuel pump relay is in position 207 in the battery fuse/relay box. There are perhaps 10, or so, relalys in that box.

At any rate, I would only replace the one to start with.

EDIT:
Oohh... now I understand your question. I think I would start with the relay swap-out by itself. It doesn't cost much, and is easy to do. You might want to pull all relays and fuses, one-at-a-time, and lubricate the bases ... good maintenance.

sbendigo · #11 10-15-2004, 08:41 AM

12Ounce - I will definately replace the relay this weekend.

I did however replace the IAC valve last night and it did the trick! The van started and is running. I think there are other issues, but at least now I can get it to Autozone and have them run their computer on it.

This forum has been great help for all my vehicles.

Thanks,
Scott

wiswind · #12 10-15-2004, 10:05 AM

Sbendigo,
You will want to clear your codes and drive a while before having Autozone read your codes.
The IAC issue may have caused other codes.....and you could end up chasing a problem that you have already solved.

Codes clear on their own after a while......or you can remove the negative battery cable and leave removed for a while....and reconnect.
If you remove your negative battery cable.....your computer will have to relearn a lot of information.....so your car may not drive as nice for a short while.....but once it has relearned the information....all will be fine.

If the Check Engine light comes back on....then get your codes read.

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