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Old 07-15-2004, 02:13 AM
xlwhellraiser xlwhellraiser is offline
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upgrading radiator

Hi, I have been going over 220 (about 240) when I get the car on the highway, it usually comes back down to 220, but I want to have it running at 180. So, I was wondering if upgrading from a 3 row radiator (i belive its stock) to a higher performance 4row radiator? Is it possible to just bolt it on or do I have to do modifications???
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Old 07-15-2004, 07:55 AM
pro_am pro_am is offline
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Re: upgrading radiator

I believe that there are drop in radiators available in the aftermarket. They tend to be a bit pricey though (at least for my shallow pockets)
Jake
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Old 07-16-2004, 01:43 PM
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Chevyracincamaro Chevyracincamaro is offline
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Re: upgrading radiator

well BeCool makes aluminum radiators for the f-body, and you're lookin at about 800 bucks for a really good one...
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Old 07-16-2004, 05:32 PM
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Rod&Custom Rod&Custom is offline
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One thing is for sure if you buy a B-Cool though. Your motor will stay cool as a cucumber on the hottest of summer days. Also if you use an aluminum one, everything about them is great, except how fragile they are. You have to be very careful while installing as to not bend up the rows, because you can imagine how those thin rows of aluminum can bend. Good luck with your search, but I would imagine that B-Cool could be a bit more than you probably want to spend.
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Old 07-17-2004, 09:56 AM
Maifirehawk Maifirehawk is offline
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Re: upgrading radiator

SLP has a fan control switch wiring that you can use (around $60.00) it is Plug-and-Play install, also a 160° F Thermostat (stock run around 195) these would you COOL.
Here is the site, check it out.
http://www.lmperformance.com/c/5/2.html

Mai
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Old 07-18-2004, 01:46 AM
wierdoslam wierdoslam is offline
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Re: upgrading radiator

Is this on the '79 in your profile? Some of the things I say here are based on that. I've got a 4 row and a 195 t-stat in my '76, and never ran that hot, even in the 100+ heat here in Tx. Researching something for another thread, I found a few problems with running a 160 (no offense intended, Maifirehawk). Your emissions crud may not become operational at that temp causing driveability probs (assuming they're not removed), the coolant may pass though the block and rad too quick when it's fully open (needs a little time to transfer heat), and the pistons and rings may not be expanded enough at that temp to properly seal. I would replace the t-stat, since they're cheap, and check for stuff between the ac condensor and radiator. If that doesn't solve it, then spend the money on a better radiator.
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