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  #1  
Old 07-14-2004, 04:23 PM
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Thourun Thourun is offline
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bouncing engine/tranny?

If I push the gas a little to much going around a corner and loose traction something very strange happens, there is a very loud and jaring noise that sounds like the engine is bouncing around on it's mounts! Or I guess it could also be the transmission. Is this anything to worry about? It only happens when I loose traction.
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1995 3000GT VR-4
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Old 07-14-2004, 04:39 PM
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Re: bouncing engine/tranny?

its probably the mounts - if it sounds like it is bouncing on them - the rubber is most likely worn or shot in the mounts - put a jack under the motor an jack it up an see how much the rubber in the mounts move - if they stretch or move far or abnormaly then i would replace them - they are prob. 50+ dollars i know the ones in my shelby daytona were expensive - but i never replaced the stealth r/t tt's so i dont know a price my front mount in the daytona was 70 dollar range with a 10% discount so i would imagine they might be up there - an its crazy cause its just a bent piece of metal with a few bolt holes an rubber lol an its pricey
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Old 07-14-2004, 04:44 PM
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Re: bouncing engine/tranny?

If you do replace the mounts go with polyurethane, www.3sxperformance.com sell em
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96 3000gt vr4
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Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.
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Old 07-14-2004, 06:41 PM
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Do you think I will be able to do the instalation myself? waht tools will I need?

And what is a core charge? If the core charge is $100 and the price is $150 will I end up paying only $50 if i send in the old ones?
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1995 3000GT VR-4
Installed: ESP front precat eliminating downpipe, test pipe, RF-1008 K&N, Dejon tool Y pipe, 1G DSM BOV, MSD wires, Guted rear pre cat, ISSPRO EV Marine boost gauge, IPO MBC, EGR blockoffs, Palm m515 dataloger setup, NGK iridium plugs, SPEC stage II clutch 500ft/lb, 5300k HID plug and play setup.

Soon:Topline Engineering ground wires.
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Old 07-16-2004, 09:03 AM
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Re: bouncing engine/tranny?

ya you can install them yourself - just make sure you have a socket set an at least 2 hydro jacks or a floor jack that can lift the whole motor..... oh an also make sure ya have a hammer an a pick or a good screwdriver ya might have to tap the old mounts out - cause they do sometimes get twisted or bent from normal use an just need a little help coming out - if they come out easy then your lucky ... good luck man
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Old 07-16-2004, 10:46 AM
Hotshot8792 Hotshot8792 is offline
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Motor mounts wont be hard to change out, just get a hydraulic jack under there with a small piece of 2x4 wood just for extra support, but you probably dont even need to do that if you just change out one motor mount out at a time. I have pulled out mounts before and the other 3 were strong enough to hold up the engine, so as long as you do one at a time, and just have support underneath just in case, it should be fairly simple and not take any longer then a couple of hours.

As for the core charge, basically what any core charge is, lets say its $150 all together, you pay for the motor mounts and you pay $150 extra for the core charge, so if the motormounts cost you $300, then you pay for $450 all together. Then, they will send you the motormounts, you replace them, take your old motormounts, and ship them to the place you bought your motormounts from, and they refund you your $150. Its just a way of getting old parts back. Most places do that with turbos so that they can use your old turbos to create their new turbos.
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1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL-TT Automatic - Black
3.05 L Arias Forged Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, DR Stage 3 heads, 3SX TD05 kit w/ E16G's, CX Racing FMIC, 550cc injectors, Walbro 255lph pump, + supporting mods

1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 - Black
Intake & Boost Controller so far


2006 Sea-Doo RXP Supercharged, Updraded SC, IC + supporting mods
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