Loud clunk when turning, help!!!

smahala1286 · #1 07-12-2004, 05:17 PM

My 96 blazer makes a loud clunk noise when i make right hand turns and sometimes when Im coming to a stop. I also noticed that my front passenger side sits about an inch and a half lower then the front drivers side. Got under the car yesterday and looked around but couldnt see too much i would have to take the skid plates off to look around, Im going to rotate my tires tomarrow and will look around then and get try to figure sometin out. Any help would be great.

smahala1286 · #2 07-13-2004, 10:02 PM

come on someone has to atleast have an idea what it can be.

quantos · #3 07-14-2004, 05:15 PM

could be your cv joint,or tie rod end.if its your tie rod you will have to get a wheel alignment after you change it.if you turn your wheels and drive in a fast circle and there is clunking its your cv joints.

smahala1286 · #4 07-15-2004, 01:33 AM

yeah i dont think it is my cv joints cause i can be parked and it will still make the noise.

leinad_69_chevelle · #5 07-15-2004, 08:03 AM

Is it 4x4??? If so you have 2 axles in front.....when an axle is broken or is to used,,,,it makes a loud sound when you turnn.....

hkdonfishn · #6 07-15-2004, 08:58 AM

My front end always clunks. It even clunks when I get in it before I even start driving. Still don't know what it is.

Macgyver007 · #7 07-15-2004, 11:01 AM

ohhh, Not sure if I want to guess on this one but I am going to anyway.
Have you checked you body mounts. Usually the one below the passenger side Floor boards is the first one to go. Followed by the drivers side same position. after that its the ones below the Rad. You mentioned that one side is physically lower than the other. THis points more towards the body mounts or the Torsion bar mounts. BTW the torson Bar mounts will give you the "clunk" as well.

Here is the cheap test I used for my body mounts: Measure the distance between the bottom of the floor and the top of the Chassie. Use a floor jack and place a piece of 4X4 on top of it. Jack the BODY ONLY under the passenger floorboard. ( directly under the door hinges) and jack it up untill you see the pressure come off the suspension. (you do NOT have to jack the thing in the air). Now measure the distance again. If it has changed any more than about a 1/16 of an inch, Body mount is gone. Start looking for a good weilding shop. or check the rubber pads that are a part of the mount for wear. If the change is nill, prob go for the torson bar mounts.

Seems to be a common problem on these, a few ppl have asked. Can you post back the solution if you find it?

HOSSMAD · #8 07-17-2004, 09:35 AM

iT MIGHT BE THE BALL JOINTS,. I have a 97 and they were re-called and replaced for FREE.....SAME SOUND.......

smahala1286 · #9 07-17-2004, 03:26 PM

k how much would it cost to have all the ball joints replaced, or should i do it myself, i have heard it is a pain. thanks for the help.

hkdonfishn · #10 07-18-2004, 01:02 PM

Well I went to the mechanic and put it on the lift turns out the stearing pinion bushings and just about all the other bushings in the front were shot. Not fixed yet nut will be this week. Try checking the bushings.

smahala1286 · #11 07-19-2004, 06:35 PM

I think that Macgyver007 is right about the torsion bar mounts I took a look under the truck today and noticed that the bumpstop on the front right has noticably less clearence then the front left bumpstop. How do i go about fixing a torsion bar mount i know i cant do it i dont have the specific tools and i dont want to get ripped off by the dealership.

HOSSMAD · #12 07-20-2004, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smahala1286

k how much would it cost to have all the ball joints replaced, or should i do it myself, i have heard it is a pain. thanks for the help.

I'd check with the dealer for parts prices, you didn't say what year it is,but my 97 was FREE for the upper or lower, I can't remember....Write down your VIN # and call a dealer about ANY recalls, I also got a new drivers seat belt doing that.also FREE...

Macgyver007 · #13 07-21-2004, 10:47 AM

Hey

Actually there are no speciality tools required, I would guess that most garages would put it at .75 units per side. About an 1.5 hours total. If you are going to attempt it yourself remember to support the truck by the frame rails because you are about to take out what holds it up. Haynes gives a pretty good description of what you need to do. Also seen them replace them a while ago on "Trucks". Not really that bad a job.

Hope this helps

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