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| Car Audio Do you live in your car? Then you need to be able to listen to some high-quality music. |
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#1
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Rear Speakers
From what I understand, the front speakers are supposed to be the ones doing most of the work and the rears are only supposed to be helping out a little. If this is true, is there a point in buying another 2 channel amp or going with a 4 channel to power the rear speakers too or would it be fine if I just ran the rears off the head unit?
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#2
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Re: Rear Speakers
The point for me is to get the extra stress of powering the speakers off of my HU's circuitry and let the HU concentrate on delivering a good clean signal to the amps. The end result is to get better sounds with less distotion at mostly all of the volume settings.
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THE DARKNESS!!! an African Soup Bone Production... |
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#3
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Re: Rear Speakers
Quote:
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'01 Black Sentra SE Weapon-R intake, HS header, HKS catback, ES motor mounts, B&M short shifter, Tein coilovers Alpine 9835, Adire Koda 6.1, Adire Brahma 15, Arc 2100cxl, Linear Power 2.2hv, Cadence ZRS-8 '05 Silver WRX STi Injen SES Downpipe, HKS Carbon-Ti catback, Cobb Stage 2 Tune, TiC Super Shifter, TiC Klunk Killer, Tein springs, Nitto NT555R Drag Radials |
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#4
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Re: Re: Rear Speakers
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also i have non of my speakers run by my head unit.. i amped the front and back.. sending 87rms to each one.. sounds great even for 60rms speakers |
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#5
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Re: Rear Speakers
some people get distortion and think they're at their limits, other people think about cleaning their signal flow. one way is to use separate ckts (componets) for signal processing and amplification. it doesn't take much to induce noise into ckts that uses signals that small (.500mv -4v is common). i think of every phase of every system i build as a future reference system. but thats just me i guess
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THE DARKNESS!!! an African Soup Bone Production... |
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#6
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Re: Rear Speakers
I'm a big fan of not using head unit power as well... my thinking isn't necessarily to 'free the head unit of extra responsibility', but more to keep the temperature down (using the head unit's amp will heat things up in your dash). I think discrete amplifier power is better, I refuse to believe you can pack 50w x 4 (common claim of most head units nowadays) into that tiny space and get true clean power out of it...
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#7
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Re: Rear Speakers
yep, 50w x 4 is really more like 22w x 4 (roughly) true RMS... not really enough to do much with...
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#8
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I don't like headunit power, personally. I wonder why alpine's new line (the 98xx series) all have built in power, to me it's just a waste
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#9
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Re: Rear Speakers
Yea, but if I can go without buying a more expensive amp just to power the rear speakers and not sacrifice the overall sound quality, whats the point?
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#10
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are your rears stock?
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#11
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Re: Rear Speakers
No, my stock rears blew out so i replaced them. Didn't put in anything fancy, just a pair of boston acoustic fx's. I know now that I shouldn't have wasted money on rear speakers until getting better fonts, but its too late to change that. The fx's can handle more than the head unit can provide, but i just dont want to invest anymore money in a already bad decision.
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#12
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Re: Re: Rear Speakers
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how do you figure rears are useless, even if you crossover your fronts perfectly with your sub, the best you can hope for is half the sound half as full w/out rears. if switch your a/v outs on your HU to the front a/v outs you can fade from front to center w/out losing subs. It won't take long to see what you'll be missisng
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THE DARKNESS!!! an African Soup Bone Production... |
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#13
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Re: Re: Re: Rear Speakers
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are you saying that with only front speakers you will only get half the sound.......wtf!?!?
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the aquabats are seriously the best band in the world |
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#14
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i say run them off the head unit for now. then save up and get components in the front. then save up again and get a 4-channel amp. or u can get them at the same time if u have enough. do what ever you want. u dont have to get an amp right this second, but i would eventually. thats just me though.....
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#15
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Re: Rear Speakers
Midbass transition
For sub-bass to sound natural, the system must have good midbass capability as well. These two are interrelated because harmonic components of the sounds produced by instruments that play in the sub-bass range must be accurately reproduced in the mid-bass range for a system to sound accurate. In car audio, we normally don't have the luxury of using very large drivers to reproduce midbass. For this reason, the ability of a subwoofer system to smoothly transition to the mid-bass region becomes very important to achieving top-notch fidelity, (enter front 6's rear deck 6x9's or if your fortunate 8's). How I see it, (and the folks at JL Audio), from sub to rear to front it's all a piece of one sound. If you take from the system your taking from the sound.
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THE DARKNESS!!! an African Soup Bone Production... |
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