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| Forced Induction Discuss topics relating to turbochargers, superchargers, and nitrous oxide systems. |
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#1 | |
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AF Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2001
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What TURBOCHARGER for type R engine?
What kind of turbo or turbocharger should my brother get for his type R engine? Yes, I know type R engine is not good to turbo but he is going to lower compression ratio to 9:5. How can he lower compression ratio?
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#2 | |
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AF Fanatic
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Lower compression pistons and a thicker head gasket lower compression ratio.
Go for a T3/TO4B. It's the ball-bearing T3/T4 ![]() just run low boost and he won't have to open up the motor.
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"Son, your eyes look a little red there. You've been hittin the Vtec haven't you? Alright, stand on one foot, touch your nose and say 'Third Rocker Arm'". Original PH Member (Reppin' for original PH'ers!) www.lunspeed.com www.jdmcivic.com www.sweetcarz.com ![]() |
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#3 | ||
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AF Fanatic
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Quote:
actually, the "B" designator only describes the type of housing used and trim. they have T4, T04, T04B, T04D, T04E... all are T4 series, which all utilize the T3 bearing housing, but have a larger compressor and exhaust trim over the T3 turbines. different OEM's require different setups to work efficiently with their motor, so they use the letter designator to differentiate minor differences to the housings and wheels. there are very few stock ballbearing turbos. they're usually converted with a new cartridge assembly. most good turbo shops can convert an existing T3 bearing housing to accept a ballbearing cartridge for a couple hundred bucks, or you can buy one preassembled. the only Garretts that i know of with ballbearings would be the Garrett/HKS GT series turbochargers. |
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#4 | ||
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AF Fanatic
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Join Date: Dec 2001
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Quote:
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#5 | ||
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AF Fanatic
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Quote:
thanx for tha info Mark
__________________
"Son, your eyes look a little red there. You've been hittin the Vtec haven't you? Alright, stand on one foot, touch your nose and say 'Third Rocker Arm'". Original PH Member (Reppin' for original PH'ers!) www.lunspeed.com www.jdmcivic.com www.sweetcarz.com ![]() |
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#6 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2002
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CFM / Spool / Engine Flow
If you buy a turbo that become "effectient" at 15psi and try to run it at 4 to 7 psi, it will run like crap.
Buy a turbo that your current or intented mods will support. Don't bother wasting money on a monsterous turbo that is slow to spool up and you will never be able to use it to it full potential. Also look at the turbo's CFM rating. The amount of air it will flow at Xpsi. This will help alot. If you have a stock motor unported/without a full turbo back Ex, you may only be able to push 100-300CFM Max. No reason to strap on a huge GT that flows 800+ CFM. Buy the right turbo the first time and not the BIGGEST you find at a cheap price. This will in the end give you the most bang for your buck. Just my 2cents. BTW I have a fully built "ground up" Balanced and Blue Printed 2.0L running a 800CFM @ 15psi Turbo producing just over 400WHP. PS: One other thing, match the spool up to your driving style and application, Street / Street-Strip / Strip Only (etc.) You don't want a turbo that fully spools at 4500RPMs if you are looking to street race, light to light. |
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#7 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2002
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most turbo's won't spool 'til about 2,500 or above anyways.
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"Bad cop! No doughnut!" |
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#8 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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Don't waste your money on putting a turbo on a type R engine. Type R engine are only "cost-efficient" when used in all motor setups. Why the hell would you spend more than 4g's to buy a type R motor, which you buy for the high revving, high c/r and high state of tune, to just lower all of that. For that matter, buy a B18C1 or a B16A and turbo it. Lower cost, same effect.
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