Clearcoat....???

[Bookshelf]

What kind of clear coat do I need to use to not mess up my decals? I am doing a JGTC model with a lot of decals and I heard that clearcoat will damage them. What' the best way to do it and what kind of clear coat should I use? It's a Tamiya model with Tamiya decals, and Tamiya paint.

[Vric]

Originally Posted by Bookshelf

It's a Tamiya model with Tamiya decals, and Tamiya paint.

Tamiya Clear

[Bookshelf]

Originally Posted by Vric

Tamiya Clear

But even in the instructions it says use it with care, how?

[The Lambrusco Kid]

I'm sure there's and HOW TO about that...

the basic idea is to apply very thin mist coat the first couple times and when it's completely dried up you can put heavier coats.

Be carefull because Tamiya clear can hurt your decals if you put too much.

Originally Posted by Bookshelf

What kind of clear coat do I need to use to not mess up my decals? I am doing a JGTC model with a lot of decals and I heard that clearcoat will damage them. What' the best way to do it and what kind of clear coat should I use? It's a Tamiya model with Tamiya decals, and Tamiya paint.

[MPWR]

Originally Posted by Vric

Tamiya Clear

BUT NOT THE LAQUER!!!

Seriously, clearcoating over decals can be a rather risky proposition. That's why Tamiya recomends against it. I can be argued that for race cars, clearcoating many times is objectively incorrect- often, graphics and sponsor emblems on real cars are decals themselves, and so hiding decal edges is not technically correct. But for protecting the decals, an argument can seriously be made to clear coat them. Do so at your own risk. The best way to do it would be to airbrush Tamiya acrylic clear in verrrry light layers, building up slowly. Be very carefull of contamination, as it's difficult to correct for afterwards. Spraying the clear on thin makes it less likely that the decals will react or distort- but there's no guarentee they won't. And if you decide to attempt to polish afterwards, use extreme care not to polish through the clear coat....

[mike@af]

What about Future?

[Vric]

you just need to put 3 or 4 really mist coat. then you make 1 "wet" coat and everything will be fine.
Testor Clear will also work, but this stuff is horrible so don't try it.
Duplicolor also work, but you will see the trim of the decal.

[iceblend]

Try gunze sanyo's mr top coat gloss. No reactions to decals or paint. Gives a very good gloss too. comes in spray can only if i'm not wrong.

[proosen]

I use Model Master's Metalizer sealer with succes, the Mercedes has some 20-30 layers of this clear coat. It dries in an instant and I haven't had any problems with yellowing during the last 5-6 years. Care should be taken though when you mask of fort the window trim as the decals can come loose, it did so on the left c-pillar on my Mercedes although I used Tamiya masking tape. It isn't all that visible if you don't look hard on the real thing, but you could end up with a ruined bodywork. This wasn't a problem with the clear coat but a decal problem.

Niclas

[nis.k.a.]

Isn't the Testor's Metalizer Sealer Lacquer? I could've sworn it is. That stuff is horrible for sealing the Metalizer though.

[SchuberT]

Originally Posted by GTmike400

What about Future?

Does Future polish out well? I heard it's too soft to polish

[geofroley]

Originally Posted by nis.k.a.

Isn't the Testor's Metalizer Sealer Lacquer? I could've sworn it is. That stuff is horrible for sealing the Metalizer though.

Yup, it's lacquer.

[freelunch]

Future won't polish right, it is very delicate. I polished a Future'd car body with just Tamiya compound and the surface became hazy and scratched. And I let the future dry for over 2 weeks, so drying times weren't a problem. Also, Future doesn't wetsand well. Sanding under water yields portions of the Future getting soft and when the sandpaper passes over, a whole chunk of clear is ripped off.

So, stick to Tamiya TS-13 Clear in the spray cans - it's good stuff!

[proosen]

No matter what the metalizer sealer is it works just great and I have never experienced any problems with it. It just goes on in a flash and has never attacked the base coat or declas in any way. It may take more coats then the TS-13 but you won't screw up with it. I haven't compared the to according to cost efficency but for me it was 'til reacently a matter of availibility, we didn't get the TS/AS-range 'til this summer so I had to come up with something that worked.

Niclas

These two were also coverd with metalizer sealer, the Volvo is from '98 and the Opel from '00

[ywwong]

Originally Posted by iceblend

Try gunze sanyo's mr top coat gloss. No reactions to decals or paint. Gives a very good gloss too. comes in spray can only if i'm not wrong.

that's what i use