i need help right now!

[Midnightryder]

alright i got a 87 fiero gt....5 speed geartag tranmission...ok my porblem is the damn thing is hard as hell ot put into frist (taking my foot offf the clutch and putting it back in a couple of times) and when i do get it in there then it is hard to put it into second and i am lost....the clutch fluid is full...is my clutch going out or what...? i need help and please as soon as possible....

[Midnightryder]

and this probelm started a couple of days ago...and it kept getting worst until i takes time and i mean time to put it into gear...so please help anyone

[Old Lar]

It could be a bent clutch pedal (although I thought they were fixed by 87) a bent clutch fork ($) or linkage cable not correct (out of adjustment or shot).

[Midnightryder]

so are them the only things....see it does not go into first right but if i turn the car off and put it into first, then start it back up again....then i can drive...until i have to stop again becasue it just wont go into frist at all, when it is running and if it does it takes so long and when i pull it out it is hard going into second....

[Midnightryder]

well as of right now i parked it becasue i dont want the damage to get any worst....i am starting to wonder why the fuck did i take this car you know.....shit not even my primer gray 86 se v-6 auto with 170,000 never gave me these problems....and this car has 66,749 miles and thats all.....and i have put over $200 in it within the past two weeks.......wheel bearing, seals, brakes, and calipers on both sides and somethign else which i forgot...........i am starting to wonder....damn i dont have good luck lol

[Old Lar]

Probably not the only things that could be wrong. My 87 5 speed has over 100K miles and I've had no problems whatsoever. Old cars are costly buggers.

[Midnightryder]

yeah it seems this one is going to be costly to keep, so i think i am just going to have to deal with it for right now....

[Midnightryder]

looks like another $200 for a damn clutch....i need a job lol...hopefully this will slove the problem..if not then it is back to the drawing board....

well the clutch pedal is only $25 which isnt too bad, but the clutch fork is more than the damn clutch...which sucks...hopefully that isnt the problem

[Ragtop_Renegade]

Sounds like a bad seals in the clutch master cylinder to me... does the pedal feel all spongy like?

I DOUBT it's the clutch, the only cause for this in the clutch would be a weak pressure plate, and those buggers are hard as hell to wear out.... you'd wear out the friction disc first , and if that were the case the car would shift easy as hell but not move.

Anyway please don't drop cash on a clutch untill you diagnose further.

[Midnightryder]

i dont really know about the pedal....but the thing just wont go into frist and when it does i have to force it in there....espically in second too......i went to try and go start it today...and my damn car is dead it barely even turned over....i had no power what so ever.....i'm lost on this car ya know?
but the car did sit for like a year or almost a year....and it seems everything is going wrong with it now....*yells why me?!?!?* i am going to wait til this weekend and like my dad take a look at it....
watch him be like ohhh u running my car...i will be like no i have only driven it for like 3 days....and this happned...so i dont know....

this sucks not having a car, but it is not like i am goign to anywhere anyways...lol....well at least i will be getting back da primer beast until...mine gets fixed which i hope is as soon as possible.....

so should i just go with the master cylinder? or what?

[Midnightryder]

could it also be the slave cylinder?

[Ragtop_Renegade]

If the battery has been sitting for a year too, that's not a real surprise it pukes on you. Must be Diehard time

If it was the slave it'd be losing fluid. The master doesn't lose fluid becuase it's just seeping back into the res.
If the pedal is bent enough to be doing it, ther'd be cracked paint around the pivot point where it was bending.

By the way, where did you buy clutch fluid? I couldn't find any so I just used brake fluid...
(ok so it's not that funny but damn, can I get credit for trying?)

[Midnightryder]

the battery is not that old (maybe 4 months at the most if that)...the whole car in general has been sitting for a year....but the car needs an altenator ...*Damn!*

anyways i guess today i am going to go order a CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER right ragtop? ...since it isnt the slave cylinder......becasue i know this problem has been progressing slowly...i am not sure where my dad got the clutch fluid at...lol and i will give ya credit on da brake fluid *props* lol

do u know where the clutch master cylinder is located on the car?

[Ragtop_Renegade]

Originally Posted by [url="http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=159646"

Midnightryder[/url]] do u know where the clutch master cylinder is located on the car?

Left of the brake booster- the fluid res. sits on top of it.
Drain the fluid (old turkey baster works great) before removing... brake fluid eats paint, you don't want to spill any.

Remove the 2 bulkhead nuts, disconnect the line and cap it off to keep air out(see below about air and brake fluid)Disconnect the plunger where it hooks to the pedal. Remove master cylinder.

You can get rebuild kits too, if you want to tackle changing the seals, it's a little cheaper. You'll need circlip pliers and a brake cylinder hone to do this.

NEVER EVER reuse drained brake fluid - it's full of contamination from the lines and it absorbs moisture when exposed to open air - condesing water in the lines would mean draining and refilling the whole system.

Of course, you'll have to bleed the system when you put it back together. It works a little dfifferent then bleeding brakes:

You'll need 2 people. Fill the res. with fluid and replace the cap (never leave the cap off for more then a minute or 2) then:

1. Person 1 opens the bleeder on the slave cylinder
2. Person 2 depresses the clutch pedal
3. Person 1 closes the bleeder
4. person 2 releases the pedal
5. Check fluid level in master, top off as needed and replace cap.
6. repete 1-5 untill pedal is firm and clutch disengauges fully.

I tried the pump-pump-pump-hold-bleed method used with brakes and it didn't work very well. Once I chaged to the above after reading it in a shop manual things went well.

[Midnightryder]

dude i think that i am just going to replace the clutch, clutch master cylinder, and the slave cylinder....becasue i know once i get one of those things done...the other one is going to go out on me....but all of them together are $300...which fucking sucks....plus i dont have that type of money on me right now, so it will be sitting for another week at least....