Removing Rear Bearing Hub = STUCK!

[Spinman]

I'm in the process of replacing a rear wheel bearing / hub in my '96 and am having a bit of a problem. Hoping someone has already done this and can offer some suggestons.


I have removed the 4 bolts holding the bearing flange to the arm - and expected the bearing assembly to practically fall out of the arm. No such luck - it appears to be stuck tight! I have tried hitting it wil a hammer to vibrate it out, tried to lever it out with a crow bar, tried to insert a pry bar between the bearing flange and the arm - all have not worked.

I have yet to try punching it out by hammering from the inner side (trying to avoid crawling under the car while it is up on the jack).

1) What have others done to get the unit out?
2) I used a 13mm box wrench and a hammer to loosen and turn the 4 mounting nuts - is there a tool with a long handle that would provide better leverage? (not enough room for a socket wrench or breaker bar - just enough for a flat wrench).

Thanks!

[dsatt12]

Put a pipe on the end of your wrench. I seem to have better luck that way than with a hammer on the wrench. I've had fun with some of those parts under there myself.

This was actually my wife's Hyundai I had the worst time with though. It has two bolts through the brake rotors to hold them in place during assembly instead of those stupid metal clip things GM likes. I struggled with those for over 30 minutes until I rounded up a length of pipe. Turns out some a@@munch put red loctite on them. Maybe just me, but BRAKE ROTORS are now one of those parts I tell myself "I'll never need to take THAT off again...". I still count myself lucky I didn't torque the heads off.

[Spinman]

I personally like the pipe idea - I believe in the concept of leverage.
When I stopped in the store today looking for a special tool that might to the job - I mentioned the idea to the kid behind the counter. He replied that a hammer is a better way to go - the sharp impact will help break the bolts loose, while the extention might possibily contribute to rounding the bolt heads. I countered that I didn't think Mr. Goodwrench would be caught dead pounding on a wrench with a hammer....

Still can't get the old hubs to budge. I'll have to stop in to a garage tomorrow and solicit opinions - it looks as if it would be a simple bolt on and off. Looking at the arm assembly on the car, it almost looks as if the two surfaces were glued together.... I trust I'm dreaming

[KillerKeller_jr]

Try either heating it up if you have a torch or spray it with some penetrating fluid and let it sit for a while and then see if it will break loose with one of those options. I used both techniques on a Grand Am I had once and it worked like a charm.

[Spinman]

Finally broke down and made an appointment with a garage. During our casual conversation - she mentioned that the mechanic will probably use a slider. Earlier this evening, I stopped at the parts store and the clerk asked how my hub exchange went. When I told him I was having problems - he said it is probably rusted in place - try a slider.

So, I guess I will see if I can locate an inexpensive slider before my garage appointment.

[Spinman]

The slide hammer solved the problem!

It took me nearly 15 minutes of off and on work (over 200 slides) to break the hub free. In fact, I ended up cracking the mounting bracket of the slider (gotta to love those made in China products). Ended up using a wire wheel on my electric drill to clean up all the dirt and corrosion on the arm and then applied a coats of high temperature paint for good measure. Finally, I applied a coat of anti-seize when I installed the new hub (so it will be easier the next time someone has to replace it).