'94 geo metro -electronic spark control distributor

[bacchus_00]

electronic spark control distributor

hello all ............ i have a 94 geo metro 3 cylinders
i change the engine for an '95 ,i change timming belt
and now the car doesn't want start .... I am sure that the
camshaft, crankshaft and distributor are at time ( piston
#1 at TDC ,the camshaft it aligns with the mark on the valve cover
and the rotor aim to the piston #1 )
i think that the electronic spark control distributor is out of time, and I'm not sure how set this...
i think that becouse
when i take out the distributor bolts and rotate the
distributor (clockwise) the engine start ....
if the distributor must be to 12 o'clock to start ,
i must rotate it until the 3 o'clock and then start.
please help me.

[geozukigti]

*listed in other post* Sounds like your spark plug wires are off by a peg on the distributor. Try moving them back, or forward 1 peg each(depending on which way you turn the distributor), and I bet it'll start with the distributor in proper placement.

[bacchus_00]

i appreciate your concern .........i'm a mechanic this is the first time i've worked on a 3 cylinder engine ( geo metro ), i have spark in each spark plug but i know and my asosiate knows that some how , something is off timming .. i bridge the terminal connector now doesn't want start at all , we have spark , we got fuel ,we have compresion but it doesn't start

[geozukigti]

Do you have it timed properly to fire 1-3-2? Which terminal connector did you bridge?

[bacchus_00]

thanks geozukigti , but i found the problem , the owner of the car was "playing" with the crank angle sensor cable , him cut and swith it , that was the problem , i appriciate your concern

[geozukigti]

LOL, well, ya never know what shady stuff people do to their cars before they give up and sell em. My distributor has a freyed wire coming from the cam sensor wire. Must be a common thing. Heat+time=crappy time with under-hood wiring

[lawbob81]

I had a similar problem... I thought I aligned the timing belt PERFECTLY, but lo and behold! it was actually off by 1 tooth in the timing belt. The thing would not run unless I turned the distributor to the maximum. I took the timing belt off again and re-adjusted it. This time, I made sure the timing belt was aligned perfect... and Viola! It started right up and ran as it should (after adjusting the distributor back to a more "normal" angle, that is. Hope this was helpful to you...

[flyhal]

I just finished putting in new rings and lifters. Decided to check the timing at at idle I get about 25 degrees. Should be around 8 or so. But if I retard the timing, it runs bad. Runs great at the 25 degree setting. I use plug #1 for reference. I took off most of the polution control stuff a year ago. The distributor is the electronic advance model so only has centrifugal control at the distributor. Somehow the ECM unit must retard and advance according to the vacuum. Maybe this was one of the hoses I took off. Any ideas out there. My mileage around town has been about 37 mpg. And it sounds good but with the A/C ON, it sure looses power for acceleration.

[Woodie83]

Wow, dude, this is five years old. Yes, you have an electronic controlled distributor just as the topic says. There is base timing, then the computer advances it from there, sometimes 20 degrees. There is a diagnostic connector near the master cylinder that needs to be jumpered before setting the timing. I think putting the fuse in the diagnostic slot in the fusebox does the same thing. I can't swear to it because I always set my timing by ear. Like all engines, it's runs best at the maximum advance it will take without pinging.