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#1
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DIC Not Turning On???
Ive got a 2000 gtp and sometimes when I start the car, the DIC, the HVAC and the headlights wont turn on (the ambers and the fogs come on). After a few minutes everything just turns on. When this happens I can still turn on the headlights manually. Im not sure what is going on but I suspect a relay somewhere. And all the fuses are fine(obviously if everything turns on after a couple minutes).
Anyone have any suggestions???? This problem is really annoying. Thanks. |
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#2
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Re: DIC Not Turning On???
most of the time is the ign switch but you have to check it when is acting up
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#3
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It could be the Ignition switch harness and the contacts are going bad.Here is a fix for it.....~Larry~
GM part number 26068757 Ignition switch harness." It is a thick cluster of heavy and lesser wires, about 1.5 feet long, with robust termination blocks on each end. One end also has geared, mechanical components. This part installs under the dash on the drivers side and up into the steering column. You need to replace it when your A/C fan begins to operate intermittently. For example, if you are driving and the fan simply stops, then restarts while on any speed setting 1-4 (not on speed setting five setting until some weeks later ,) your switch is failing. The problem will gradually become worse, with the outage taking longer to recover, until you achieve total failure. There are actualy two parts that can cause this problem, and the second part is called the resistor pack. That part connects directly to the blower housing under the dash on the passenger side, and is about 24 bucks new from GM. My fully functional pack was slightly burned on the circuit board, so I replaced it. The fan ignition switch was easy to replace, but it is awkward to install. You will need typical small hand tools, plus an 8-inch or longer socket extension. a torx male socket (T11, I think) and two torx female sockets (T11 and T10.) I didn't know that until I had my steering column torn down, and had to drive around the city with a skeletal column, wires dangling and tools in the floorboard. No one sells female torx wrenches that small, so you will have to buy two small standard wrenches. (Your 1/8th inch drive sockets are way too big to fit the space you will have to work with.) Sears has a perfect solution. Buy the 5/32nd and 1/8th size wrenches on the 2.5 inch steel stems. They look like small screwdrivers with the socket permanently mounted at the end of a thin, steel stem. You will need the small stem because you won't be able to remove the cowl above the steering column, and its in the way. The physical key slot on the primary ingnition switch is too big for the upper steering column cowl to slide over, so you will have to raise the plastic cowl as far as possible to access the two very, very small torx screws holding the fan switch in place. The cowl will be stressed, so be careful. Also, you will have to cut and splice two wires due to being unable to remove the upper steering column cowl. There is some magic part snapped into a slot on the top of the column that you will not be able to reach, which will have to be left there. Cut the two wires coming off it and splice them to the two matching wires coming off your new part. There is a small, odd shaped white plastic box attached to one end the two wires. Nothing comes out of the little box, and there are no metal contacts on the surface of it. Apparently, there is something inside the box that sends some kind of signal/magnetism/charge through its housing to a receiver in the steering column. Or not. Who knows? The wires are very plainly marked, they match the new ones and there are only two. You can't screw it up unless you fail to insulate your splices. If you don't insulate them well, then you can expect some really fun problems later. That job takes about 1.5 hours, and the part is 54 bucks from www.gmpartsdirect.com. GM wants 98 dollars for it, and a shop will charge you around 300 dollars to do the job.
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#4
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Thanks for help. I'll try that this week when I get a chance.
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