Two more Pug questions

[joelwideqvist]

Smee again...
Yet two more questions have come up.

1. My instructions for the chassis doesn't fully explain the paint scheme when it comes to the chassis. As I'm building a red car, shall the chassis be painted red on the down-facing side? I can see from my reference photos that the wheel housings are red but no more.

2. Take a look at this picture (I borrowed one of yours Phil, hope that´s ok).



After fit, the body and the floorpan split a bit as the body curves outwards for that nice and bulky part around both front and rear wheels. The floorpan just goes straight on and leaves quite a gap to the bodyshell. At the front end the dash will hide that problem bot at the rear you will be able to see the wheels from within the car (or more likely from outside of the car and through the window. Do you guys ever do something about this or do you leave it at that?

/Joel

[935k3]

I usually add some plastic to the wheel well area to hide the wheels. Tamiya has been doing this allot, leaving see through wheel wells. Look at the back of their Mercedes 2000 DTM cars, that wheel well should be totally enclosed. The Opel DTM as no rear inner door panels.

[freakray]

There's even a good chance the underbody was white.
Best is to try to find a photo of a private entry Pug over a jump when the underbody may show.

[joelwideqvist]

Originally Posted by freakray

There's even a good chance the underbody was white.
Best is to try to find a photo of a private entry Pug over a jump when the underbody may show.

Found this one, it seems the color should be "dirty" or something like that If you try to look at the side of the protective pans I would guess neither red nor white would be correct. Perhaps go for silver...

[freakray]

The sump guard is silver as a rule.
If the car was a repainted WRC Pug from 2002, the underbody may still be silver.

[RallyRaider]

If you are going to use a photo of mine, Joel, you could have at least found a good one

I believe that the Pug Panizzi ran in Turkey was pretty much a works spec car. Therefore the underside should be the same as the works ones, trouble is I'm not sure what that would be! Although the Peugeot drivers crashed out few times in 2003 they rarely if ever flipped so didn't reveal the underside to us

On Tamiya’s Pug the gaps between chassis and body are not really a problem if you keep the low tarmac spec. However I've raised a few and doing so leaves a small amount of see through at the rear. Not too bad, unlike the Evo VII which is really bad. I just left it as it's only visible from one angle. Easy way to fix it is make up some thin plastic panels, shaped to fit in the wheel wells and install them after fitting the body. Another way is to build up the inside of the body so it meets the chassis. Tried that for the first time on my Makinen Escort and it worked well. Much more time consuming and fiddly than the first method.

What are you doing for wheels?

[joelwideqvist]

Originally Posted by RallyRaider

I believe that the Pug Panizzi ran in Turkey was pretty much a works spec car. Therefore the underside should be the same as the works ones, trouble is I'm not sure what that would be! Although the Peugeot drivers crashed out few times in 2003 they rarely if ever flipped so didn't reveal the underside to us

That's too bad... Looking at the instruction for the 2003 Tamiya Pug you could with a little fantasy make the underside red. Top side except engine room is marked as TS-17. I think I'll make the wheel housings and the front radiator area red and the rest aluminum, and then you can kill me afterwords

Originally Posted by RallyRaider

However I've raised a few and doing so leaves a small amount of see through at the rear.... Easy way to fix it is make up some thin plastic panels, shaped to fit in the wheel wells and install them after fitting the body. Another way is to build up the inside of the body so it meets the chassis.

Saw a diary yesterday were I got a few tips as the one you mention. I'll have a look if it would be worth it to alter the shape of the body otherwise I'll definetely go for some plastic panels.

Originally Posted by RallyRaider

What are you doing for wheels?

I did order Renaissance wheels (and a set of metal Racing43 ones cause the Renaissance ones didn't come with a spare). Unfortunately the Renaissance ones only have 4 bolts and the Racing43 ones are too big. A bit afraid of geting in to making the suspension setting a bit higher I yesterday decided to follow your advise to get the 2002 Winner version. Could use both suspensions and wheels from that one. That's what I'm guessing anyway, perhaps there will be more problems when that kit get here
/Joel