Power window motor change on 2dr S10 '94

[deeemaaan]

Looking for any words of advice as to how I might proceed with this project. I have the panel off and the plastic seal up, but the motor and other assembly parts are hidden quite well. The instructions on the new motor say to drill out the old 'rivits' which is understandable but once they are out I am quite certain that will also cause the window to come crashing down. Any ideas???

Dom

[TopDogg]

find a way to keep window up.
A wedge maybe?
Someone holding it?

[deeemaaan]

Thanks for the ideas but even with that what is the process for changing out the old motor? I can't see anything that I am doing. I guess what I am trying to say is "is it as easy as pulling out the old and sticking in the new?"

I just don't want to have a mess that someone at a garage will have to clean up. A bit too cautious maybe, but limited funds have limited area for error.

[movin2stereo]

To make life easier on you,you have to start by pulling the window.Crank the window down untill you can see the nuts that hold the window onto the crank assembly(I think they are 10mm).You also have to take the bolts out of the track assemblies(you might have to take one off,this will give you some play,they are 10mm located towards the bottom of the door.).Now push one side of the window down and the other side up and you should be able to bring the window up and out of door.Now drill your rivets and pull the crank assembly out of the door through one of the large openings in the door.Swap your motor and reinstall everything.

[deeemaaan]

OK, this response is for those who will come after me.

Just finished the job and it was far off of the instructions given in the new part box. Even the idea given in the last response wasn't applicable as the rail is welded on (but thanks anyway for your time/help). By the way, if S10 means a pick-up truck then I apoligize; it is the 2 dr SUV design.

It goes like this... I used a NAPA replacement part WINDOW LIFT # 49-25 bar code # 6 54543 09369 4. You will need a drill and a 1/4 " bit and some oil to lubricate the drill as you go as well as a socket wrench, spanners, phillips/flathead screwdriver, flashlight, heavy grease, glue for the plastic barrier to be re-sealed, vise grips (of course), vacuum cleaner w/hose attachment, rags, something to brace the window with and a friend. Before you start you will need to get replacement screws, washers, lock washers, and nuts for the ones they give you but don't throw away the old ones (there should be a total of 4 sets). Get machined screws size 10 x 1/2", washers, and BETTER lock washers, and nuts (in all 4 screws, 4 regular washers, 4 lock washers, and 4 nuts. Also, if you know what type of 'clips' hold the panel onj, get about 10 of those as they are a sacrificial part of this. Place the window in a mid position. Remove the window edging that is held on by 3 screws, the built in arm rest that is held by 2 screws, and the vent in the door jam trailing back that is held in by 2 screws. Now find a way under the door panel edge and start, from the bottom, to pull out while working around, but not too far out, leaving the top still connected (watch out here as the panel bends vertically in the middle and can cause damage to the metal window seam. It will sound quite loud and require some tension. Dont worry about the 'clips' holding it on as you will, as said, have to replace them. If you didn't get them before, now you will have specimens to show the auto store guy. As you get to the top, reach underneath and release the the window switches by compressing the two tension clips on the horizontal edges of the swiches. This can be hard. If you can't see them, then try to remove all the panel 'clip' attachment points and then shift up on the panel to slide the window edging up and out of it's position. Then it is a bit easier to get to them but remember to watch the distance you move the panel from the door and try not to bend the panel vertically. You then, after disconecting the widow switches from the door panel, will see the arm rest support that will need to be removed. Once the two screws are removed you will have to wiggle the support towards you, up and down and out. I don't understand the design reasoning of this part. You then start to peal away the seal lining under the carpet (try not to tear it as you can re-seal). When you have pulled a good portion of the seal off (don't remove the black 'clips' that hold the carpet on) pull it up and secure it out of the way. You can cut away the old panel 'clips' but keep any foam gromets attached to them and note where they came from. Use what you can to get the 'clips' off. Push the remenants through to the inside of the door. At this point you should be able to see the bottom of the window, with the lever raising arm, through the upper window. Try to place the window as far up as possible but with the attaching nuts still visible in the top window in the door. You will see 4 screw rivits in front of you. WARNING!!! Watch out for the cut-aways in the door as they are sharp. At this point brace the window under the lever hinge housing or use clamps from above but make sure to leave space for the widow armature and motor to be removed (how do you know? You don't) This is the time to disconnect the power to the window through the foward door hole. You now drill the rivits out with the 1/4 " bit. Watch out because when they go, you follow, as pressure is needed to get through them. Before the last one is removed, place your hand underneath the motor housing for support. When all rivits are out, pull the armature through the large opening in which the bottom of the window is seen. At this point you will see the very greased window motor attached to the lever arm. Now, reattach the power and (WATCH YOUR FINGERS) move the position of the arm as it would be in the upper most position. This is to remove a little of the pressure on the tension spring. The motor should be held on by three rivits to the arm. Place the motor down and drill these rivits out but WARNING!!! the tension spring attached to the arm will release. First, take note of the spring orientation as you will have to return it to that positon; the 'trigger' on this is the removal/moving of the motor itself. If you can, place a towel or heavy cloth over the spring ala 'champagne cork'. Remove the old motor and apply grease; place in new motor (keep the now loose arm in the position that it was in prior to the old motor removal). With the original screw sets that came with the new part, replace the rivits in the two accessable holes and tighten. Reattach the power (WATCH YOUR FINGERS) to the motor and move the arm to the other extreme. Now you can access the other hole (disconnect power). When this one is tightened (reconnect power) return the arm back to the 'upper' position and reinstall the spring. I tried a couple of ways but vise grips worked best for me (apply grease in needed areas). When the spring is in place (make sure it is flat against the armature), reconnect the power and bring it back to the mid position as it was when removing from the door (disconnect power). Push the new motor and armature back through where you got it from making sure to feed the raiser arm wheel back into the window raiser arm railing and place it in original position (you might have to re-attach the power to get the arm setting back to what it was when it was removed). Attach the armature with the 10 x 1/2" screws putting the screw through into the door with one washer on the outside and the lock washer and nut on the inside. Start with the more accessable attachment points so that you have some support as you get to the harder ones. Use of a socket wrench/spanner here is great for the nuts on the inside. After all 4 rivit points are replaced you should be able to remove the brace that is holding up the window. Test your window (reattach power?) and see if all is good. You should now, if all IS good, place the window in the upper position and vacuum out all the bits and pieces from the panel 'clips' and old rivits. These can clog the drain holes and rattle around during driving. Take the new panel 'clips' and 'screw' them into the door panel where the originals came from (remember to place the foam grommets onto the new 'clips' that came from the same position). You might want to note where the 'clips' are so that when the panel is being reattached you know where to press. You might want to check the window for grease at this point and clean any edges that will touch the window as well. Re-seal the plastic barrier. Reattach the arm rest support. Reattach the window switches. Now place the panel back on. Start with the top edge as it has to slide down into the door housing. It's a bit of a job as the 'clips' are loose but you will get it eventually. Now just reattach the arm rest, top edge, and the vent in the door jam trailing edge.

I don't think I have missed anything, but if I have I apoligize. The lesson is, if I had known how much,outside of what the instructions had told me, this job would entail I would have taken it to a real mechanic. That said I am quite happy with this 'trial', and with three band aids and an eye patch later I feel better for having done it myself.

Thank you for your input.
Dominic

[gakselso]

What a nightmare! I was just kinda getting started on that a few weeks ago when someone suggested "bang the motor". I did -- and it started working. Un-friggen-believable. I took back the replacement motor I'd bought yesterday.

Great description of the process, though, I've no idea how long my "fix" is going to last.