Help picking

[cdawg001]

Ok. here is my story, I cant add an amp and subs to my car because of my alternator, but i want the best sound possible. Could anyone tell me the best speakers to get. I have a 94 new yorker, 3 3 1/2 dash speakers, 2 5 1/2 door speakers, 2 6 x 9 rear speakers. I have it running off of a Pioneer unit with a 200 watt built in amp. Also, should I get any tweeters? TIA.

[aznxthuggie]

Originally Posted by cdawg001

Ok. here is my story, I cant add an amp and subs to my car because of my alternator, but i want the best sound possible. Could anyone tell me the best speakers to get. I have a 94 new yorker, 3 3 1/2 dash speakers, 2 5 1/2 door speakers, 2 6 x 9 rear speakers. I have it running off of a Pioneer unit with a 200 watt built in amp. Also, should I get any tweeters? TIA.

what is wrong with your alternator that makes it so you can't have a sub/amp? and your dash speakers are probably tweeters, get some components for the door speakers, and for back speakers, the true enthusiast would probably tell you not to put any in at all because it interferes with the sound staging/imaging but since you dont want / or cant have subs, just get any "filler" 6x9 speakers you can get a decent pair from $70-90, and your built in "200 watt amp" is probably only putting out between 18-23RMS x 4 so if you want louder get an amp for the speakers, most of the time a speaker amp will not drain your car battery or anything

[JC80]

He may be running alot less RMS than that considering he is pushing more than 4 speakers with 200w from the hu. Just replace what you got with aftermarket...replace the 3? front 3 1/2s with a good midbass/midrange speaker..for your fronts get 5 1/2 2ways taking car of your tweeters and rears either getting a plate or sticking with the 6x9s..I wouldn't get a 3way for the rear..maybe a 2way a 6x9 and 1 in. tweeter. Getting an amp is optional but recommendable. The SQ should be really good but you won't get a really strong signal if you don't push the speakers with more watts.

[JC80]

oh..best speaker brand?...Kicker, Audiobahn, Polk Audio...shouldn't run you too much considering you aren't getting subs. Also think about getting components for the 5 1/2s..

Personally I'd go with Audiobahn but thats just me..they have the 3 1/2 midbass and 5 1/2 components that are great and don't cost a whole lot for the quality you get.

[Haibane]

audiobahn sucks miserably in components... and speakers. Look at cdt, crystal, focal, edi6500, the good stuff. The only decent speakers in that list no wait there aren't any. CDTs, crystals and probably even focals will cost you less than those other speakers and handle much more power with more clarity. Remember audiobahn rates their speakers per pair, not individually...

[PaulD]

a factory alternator of only 60 amps or so can still play a system of 500-600 watts with no problem

[loismustdie]

Originally Posted by Haibane

audiobahn sucks miserably in components... and speakers.

well said

[cdawg001]

ok my problem with my alternator is i had 2 1100w subs and a 760w amp. Every time the bass hit my car would sound like it was powering down with the bass....

[aznxthuggie]

Originally Posted by cdawg001

ok my problem with my alternator is i had 2 1100w subs and a 760w amp. Every time the bass hit my car would sound like it was powering down with the bass....

well now theres your problem, on average, people run 300rms and are happy with the bass, it has almost 0 effect on the car's electrical system, but from my experience, once you have 600+ rms it starts to show problems with your electrical system, as for me right now, im running 450rms and i have absolutely no problems with dimming or rpm/voltage drops, the most just buy a new battery, yellow top optimas are made for fast discharge unlike your stock battery, which is made for just running your car, or buy a new alternator, a 150amp alternator should be enough for 1000rms

[CarSuperfreak]

Originally Posted by cdawg001

ok my problem with my alternator is i had 2 1100w subs and a 760w amp. Every time the bass hit my car would sound like it was powering down with the bass....

Is that peak power or rms? my guess is peak, which means about this much--> 0

rms is the continuous power being delivered, and thats the power rating that matters.

[cliffb4n8r]

Okay... First of all, there are many little tricks involved in running hi-fi car audio...

DON'T use your rear defogger when your stereo is turned up
DON'T use fog lights when your stereo is turned up
and keep the fan speed DOWN.. This should free up about 30 amps for use with a nice 400W amp...

I've had great success with a 4 channel 400W earthquake amp pushing a pair of 5.25 OZ components in front @ 85W RMS each(one pair of channels) and a 10" Cerwin Vega sub(should've got an Oz!) getting the other 2 channels bridged mono @ 200W RMS... This is a great setup for imaging and SQ... If you want extreme volume, get a bigger alternator... I would reccomend bumping up the sub to a 12" and taking out the 6x9s since a new yorker is pretty well insulated, and make sure your components are't too far apart, as it can really mess up your imaging...