Hello fellow DelSol lovers!

[toozious]

Hello all,

I just wanted to say hi, as I've been absorbing the pearls of wisdom from this forum for a long time, but never registered!

Thanks all for your comments, they have been very helpful getting rid of rattles, leaks, and performance issues.

I have a '92-'93 Del Sol, DOHC VTEC, 1.6 (not sure of the exact spec of the engine). Its had some HKS modification, but I'm not 100% sure what they've done - apart from something to do with the cams, lowering and bodywork. It has 65K on the clock, transtop - and lastly - I LOVE IT!!

I'm now really after some opinions; I have recently had some trouble with my distributor and thought that I'd get a whole load of work done at the same time as getting that minor problem fixed. I really want to know if I've made the right decision with what I've opted for. Performance is my main criteria as I love driving.

1) Spark plugs and distributor upgraded to some performance system (not 100% sure what)
2) New preformance clutch fitted
3) Flywheel is being lightened
4) New stainless steel exhaust
5) Transtop bearings are going to be replaced
6) Cool air intake
7) DeCat
8) VTEC controller

It's not costing me a fortune as most of it is going through my business, so it's fairly tax efficient!!

I was just wondering if I've opted for the right work to be done in the first instance and then, my question is what can I do next to increase BHP?

I've never done any 1/4 miles or anything like that as I prefer pleasure driving, but I'd like to be able to get my baby running into the 15/16 seconds.

Any thoughts/suggestions/criticisms?

Many thanks,
Jonny Tooze

PS. You can see my Sol here:

http://www.voodooz.com/car_photos/158-5845_IMG.JPG

http://www.voodooz.com/car_photos/158-5834_IMG.JPG

[Auto_newb]

"I was just wondering if I've opted for the right work to be done in the first instance and then, my question is what can I do next to increase BHP?"

Get a turbo

[Tranzlogic]

going boost is far from a new dist. and plugs man..and were talking a massive price diff. as well....and it wouldnt be just a turbo, theres alot more envolved
anyways for the question....
I would go with rather an OBD1 (if its an obd2 swap that you have) and a set of Denso Uridium plugs with a set of MSD,Nology or crower wires...or you could opt for a full MSD ignition system and a blaster coil..both ways will give you much better spark and so forth..at this time you could also advance your timing 1 or 2 degrees, but remember to set it back if you ever go boost or juice.
now im not sure what all you have done..but since you didnt mention anything i will take that is a no... You need to get yourself into an AEM CAI, rather a 98+ type r ITR header or a greddy (dc is more popular due to the name and the ceramic coating but the performance is insuperior) but that choice is yours, A set of unorthodox or perhaps AEM underdrive pulley's would give you some more low end pull off the line. As far as your cat and an exhaust..Dont waste your money with those high flow cats..you need to get a test-pipe for 20 bucks and just put your cat on come inspection time..nothing flows better than a test pipe !!! if your not sure what im talking about type in "test pipe" on ebay. For an exhaust I would go for rather a Greddy,Apexi,HKS or Tanabe..which model cat-back is going to be based ony our needs for ground clearance,preffered sound range and possable turbo future. For a clutch your going to want something with as much increase in holding capacity as possable but retain the most streetable pedal feel....i think you should check out the centerforce dual friction or a act or competition clutches street disk with medium duty pressure plate....as far as your controller..if you got an ecu that wouldnt really be that nessasary due to the lowered engaugment point and altered fuel maps..but the field is very user friendly..but anything Apexi is quality...if you went ecu you could also always add an upgraded p28 ecu with the JUN program ( i like the ecu idea )..you can get them pretty cheap off ebay sometimes less than a apexi...but that of course is only if you have an extra 150 layin around...since were at extra money ..in the future I would get a set of Type R ITR cams or any stage 1 that suits your streetable needs (toda spec A's,Skunk2 1,Crower streets,Jun 1 etc) this will come in greatly with the advanced timing and new ignition set up..along with cams of course is a set of adjustable cam gears..this case I would opt for AEM tru time gears. maybe even a set of skunk 2 dual valvesprings....but now im just rambeling

[Plastic_Fork]

Originally Posted by toozious

I'm now really after some opinions; I have recently had some trouble with my distributor and thought that I'd get a whole load of work done at the same time as getting that minor problem fixed. I really want to know if I've made the right decision with what I've opted for. Performance is my main criteria as I love driving.

1) Spark plugs and distributor upgraded to some performance system (not 100% sure what)
2) New preformance clutch fitted
3) Flywheel is being lightened
4) New stainless steel exhaust
5) Transtop bearings are going to be replaced
6) Cool air intake
7) DeCat
8) VTEC controller

Welcome to the posting ranks. As for your work decisions, here are my opinions.

1) NGK platinum plugs will be more than sufficient for the motor unless you do anything like a turbo or N20. The OEM plugs will be fine - Honda uses NGK platinums for our stock B16A motors. Same with distributor - no need to change it and upgrade to an MSD system unless you have need for a larger spark such as N20 or turbo. If you're looking for a better spark, get a new cap/rotor from Honda, OEM plugs, and replace all the grounds in your motor bay with new ones. Much more cost effective and will make the difference you are looking for.

2) You're good there.

3) I wouldn't lighten the OEM flywheel. The OEM flywheel is designed for certain tolerances and if you lighten it, you risk damage or problems. Replace the flywheel with a chromoly flywheel instead. I wouldn't suggest using an aluminum flywheel as those tend to warp/crack.

4) See #2
5) See #2
6) See #2

7) Not a bad idea for power gains, just be mindful of the emissions regulations in your area.

8) Again, not really necessary unless you've done a lot of work to the motor. Honda has spent years on research for a good reason and in most cases there is really no need to adjust VTEC from its factory engagement points. You'd need a lot of hefty motor work for it to really be necessary to move the engagement points.


If you still have money you want to spend and you haven't done so already, look into a new header and perhaps some headwork. Car looks great, man!

[toozious]

Originally Posted by Plastic_Fork

Welcome to the posting ranks. As for your work decisions, here are my opinions.

1) NGK platinum plugs will be more than sufficient for the motor unless you do anything like a turbo or N20. The OEM plugs will be fine - Honda uses NGK platinums for our stock B16A motors. Same with distributor - no need to change it and upgrade to an MSD system unless you have need for a larger spark such as N20 or turbo. If you're looking for a better spark, get a new cap/rotor from Honda, OEM plugs, and replace all the grounds in your motor bay with new ones. Much more cost effective and will make the difference you are looking for.

2) You're good there.

3) I wouldn't lighten the OEM flywheel. The OEM flywheel is designed for certain tolerances and if you lighten it, you risk damage or problems. Replace the flywheel with a chromoly flywheel instead. I wouldn't suggest using an aluminum flywheel as those tend to warp/crack.

4) See #2
5) See #2
6) See #2

7) Not a bad idea for power gains, just be mindful of the emissions regulations in your area.

8) Again, not really necessary unless you've done a lot of work to the motor. Honda has spent years on research for a good reason and in most cases there is really no need to adjust VTEC from its factory engagement points. You'd need a lot of hefty motor work for it to really be necessary to move the engagement points.


If you still have money you want to spend and you haven't done so already, look into a new header and perhaps some headwork. Car looks great, man!

I can't thank you all enough for your responses. Very helpful I must say.

OK, firstly, I've told my mechanic to scrap the VTEC controller idea. It sounds a bit gimmicky and the implications of over heating when turning the VTEC to 4000 revs etc, seems to outweigh the benefits.

Secondly, I can't remember the name of the make of the fly wheel, but its not going to be the OEM one. He's replacing the whole thing apparently.

Lastly, a message to Tranz. You know far too much about cars! I understood quite a bit of what you said, but the rest just blew me away.

A few questions for you:

1) I don't know what you mean by AEM CAI, obviously searching the forum just put this acronym up again and again, so could someone please explain what this is? Something to do with the air intake?

2) I think that the DeCat system that I'm getting installed is just a 'quick release' system, that swaps the cat for a bit of pipe - does that sound sensible? I know that the law requires me to have a cat, but I'll be able to pop it back in without much work when the times comes for testing.

3) You've got a million and one ideas for me. Where would you say my prioprities lay?

4) Firstly: I've never watched TFATF and can't stand showboating. My mechanic told me that Nitros Oxide gets you about 75 HP more when engaged. I've thought about this and can get a system installed for about £600. a) is it worth it (i'm a bit of a speed junky) and b) what effects will I experience during acceleration/top end?

Many thanks again for all your comments to date. You're slowly educating a newbie, appreciated!

Jonny Tooze

[Tranzlogic]

Im always willing to help !! but theres some guys on here that know more than me..you can never know enough.....Good luck with the project and if you ever have anymore questions...feel free

[Auto_newb]

Originally Posted by toozious

I can't thank you all enough for your responses. Very helpful I must say.

OK, firstly, I've told my mechanic to scrap the VTEC controller idea. It sounds a bit gimmicky and the implications of over heating when turning the VTEC to 4000 revs etc, seems to outweigh the benefits.

Secondly, I can't remember the name of the make of the fly wheel, but its not going to be the OEM one. He's replacing the whole thing apparently.

Lastly, a message to Tranz. You know far too much about cars! I understood quite a bit of what you said, but the rest just blew me away.

A few questions for you:

1) I don't know what you mean by AEM CAI, obviously searching the forum just put this acronym up again and again, so could someone please explain what this is? Something to do with the air intake?


4) Firstly: I've never watched TFATF and can't stand showboating. My mechanic told me that Nitros Oxide gets you about 75 HP more when engaged. I've thought about this and can get a system installed for about £600. a) is it worth it (i'm a bit of a speed junky) and b) what effects will I experience during acceleration/top end?

Many thanks again for all your comments to date. You're slowly educating a newbie, appreciated!

Jonny Tooze

CAI = Cold Air Intake, it is an intake that sucks air from a cooler area of the engine bay

4) It really depends how much you are going to use Nitrous, if you are going to hold the button down all the time, then you might as well get a turbo, it beats refilling the bottles every week. I think 600 pounds would be worth it, You won't experience anything until you push the switch.

[toozious]

Originally Posted by Auto_newb

CAI = Cold Air Intake, it is an intake that sucks air from a cooler area of the engine bay

4) It really depends how much you are going to use Nitrous, if you are going to hold the button down all the time, then you might as well get a turbo, it beats refilling the bottles every week. I think 600 pounds would be worth it, You won't experience anything until you push the switch.

Ahh... of course. I'm getting one of those. Not 100% sure what make but its going to cost me about £150. I've seen the one I'm getting, its got a coloured tube going to a conical looking air intake. I thought that it might be a good idea to get a vent made in my bonnet to help ram cool air into it? Would this help do you think or would it just look stupid having an air intake on one side of the bonnet?

Apart from that, this whole issue with getting serious HP is starting to confuse me slightly.

I understand that N20 systems inject the gas once your foot is buried in the carpet and then proceed to last for around 4 minutes until the gas bottle runs out and you have to pay another £70 for a top up. It all seems pretty simple that one... although I have little idea of the gain or the damage (short/medium/long term). Plus - are they just a bit lame?

Turbos and super chargers. That's where I'm totally confuse for two reasons. One I have no idea how they work, and two I have noe idea how much it would cost to do it to my Sol. Can anyone fill in me in with the hard facts about the to options? For example, HP gain, fuel consumption issues, decrease in engine life, power bands, price, etc.

Essays on my desk first thing Monday morning please. Just kidding, any help would be really good.


Thanks lads and ladettes.

Jonny

[Auto_newb]

Originally Posted by toozious

Ahh... of course. I'm getting one of those. Not 100% sure what make but its going to cost me about £150. I've seen the one I'm getting, its got a coloured tube going to a conical looking air intake. I thought that it might be a good idea to get a vent made in my bonnet to help ram cool air into it? Would this help do you think or would it just look stupid having an air intake on one side of the bonnet?

You plan on putting a hole in your hood? I think it could help, but not much, those things are made for superchargers because superchargers fit on top of the engine and it's probably easier for it to suck in air, and/or the hood can't shut without a hole. If you really wanna cool air intake temperatures, buy an intercooler.

Apart from that, this whole issue with getting serious HP is starting to confuse me slightly.

I understand that N20 systems inject the gas once your foot is buried in the carpet and then proceed to last for around 4 minutes until the gas bottle runs out and you have to pay another £70 for a top up. It all seems pretty simple that one... although I have little idea of the gain or the damage (short/medium/long term). Plus - are they just a bit lame?

Actually, you can only hold it down for 15 seconds, otherwise it will damage the solenoids. Most people here think it is lame because a movie "2fast 2furious" and "the fast and the furious" EXAGGERATES the power of nitrous, and now, everyone wants it yet they always end up destroying their engines. If you want more than a 75 hp shot, you need to do some tuning to your engine so it is capable of using a higher shot, and you also need a "direct port injection" system instead of a "wet" or "dry" system, so you run a smaller risk of running lean.

I really doubt Nitrous will do anymore damage to an engine than a turbo or S/C would, that is unless you go WOT in neutral with the nitrous activated, or you got a stock 4 banger with no modifications running over 125 shots.

Turbos and super chargers. That's where I'm totally confuse for two reasons. One I have no idea how they work, and two I have noe idea how much it would cost to do it to my Sol. Can anyone fill in me in with the hard facts about the to options? For example, HP gain, fuel consumption issues, decrease in engine life, power bands, price, etc.

Essays on my desk first thing Monday morning please. Just kidding, any help would be really good.


Thanks lads and ladettes.

Jonny

Wanna know about s/c's and turboes?
Here: Turbos
Superchargers

The main differences are:

Supercharger: instant power, sucks hp at low revs, typically easier to install, runs on the engine's crankshaft.

Turbo: lag (power needs to build up before it starts working), uses exhaust pressure to turn the turbines, produces more power than supercharger, typically harder to install.

Turbos run on the engines oil supply (some), if you don't want any turbo lag between shifts, you need a bypass valve, if you want the turbo to live longer, and boost a little more horsepower, get an intercooler.

[Plastic_Fork]

Originally Posted by toozious

A few questions for you:

1) I don't know what you mean by AEM CAI, obviously searching the forum just put this acronym up again and again, so could someone please explain what this is? Something to do with the air intake?

2) I think that the DeCat system that I'm getting installed is just a 'quick release' system, that swaps the cat for a bit of pipe - does that sound sensible? I know that the law requires me to have a cat, but I'll be able to pop it back in without much work when the times comes for testing.

3) You've got a million and one ideas for me. Where would you say my priorities lay?

4) Firstly: I've never watched TFATF and can't stand showboating. My mechanic told me that Nitros Oxide gets you about 75 HP more when engaged. I've thought about this and can get a system installed for about £600. a) is it worth it (i'm a bit of a speed junky) and b) what effects will I experience during acceleration/top end?

1) AEM is a manufacturer of short ram and cold air intakes (CAI). Intake designs and functions have been argued forever and a half, but it really just comes down to your preference. AEM makes great intakes and has put research into each application to ensure best gains, as opposed to just throwing a pipe with a filter on it like most other companies. Plus AEM's filters are the only ones with a velocity stack designed into them. K&N manufactures AEM's filters, but only the AEM filters have the velocity stack. Normal K&N filters do not. For Del Sol's, the filter placement is just behind the fender well on the passenger side. As long as you make sure that the fender well is properly secured, you should be okay and not risk sucking water into the motor. Otherwise you may want to consider a bypass valve to protect it or just go with a short ram intake.

2) What you mention here is commonly referred to as a "test pipe". Pretty much just a metal tube that replaces your catalytic converter. Again, good for power gains and performance, but it will increase the noise your car makes and is not emissions compliant.

3) Priorities: fix anything that's broken. Then work on performance. Again, I would start with the basics of intake, header, and exhaust. It opens up your motor for better performance and sets it up for additional performance upgrades in the future. Otherwise you'll bottleneck your performance. Suspension is next in my opinion - why improve the motor if your car can't handle the load? A good preparation base for the car's improved power will ensure that anything you upgrade can be handled.

4) A nitrous system won't really hurt the motor if done properly. Just be mindful you research nitrous systems before undertaking it. You need increased fuel delivery with nitrous in order to avoid engine damage and keeping nitrous engaged for extended periods will destroy your motor. Most nitrous applications are run for a few seconds at a time. Otherwise you risk serious engine problems. My best friend destroyed his D15 motor this way. He ran nitrous for 15 seconds straight. Granted, he won the race but he literally melted his drive train. Wish I had a camera at the time to get pictures of it. My roommate runs a 75 shot of nitrous, but he's taken the necessary precautions. Plus he has a B18B motor and they're a bit hardier for boosted applications such as turbo or nitrous. You have a B16, so I wouldn't run a shot that large until you have upgraded fuel delivery and made necessary precautions. Beyond this advice, I am less knowledgeable so I suggest you seek help from those that know more and know what they're talking about. Lots of people here don't know what they're doing. Again, nitrous is safe if done properly and it's cheaper than a turbo setup. You're looking at a LOT of work and money to even be able to properly handle a turbo setup on a VTEC motor.

[toozious]

Hello again all,

I haven't posted in a while but I've still been reading posts and learning lots about my Sol.

I have an issue (and it's not with my mental health .... yet).

My mechanic is a bodywork specialist although he's done a fair amount of work on my car's mechanics. He installed an air filter, replaced my ditributor, and most recently installed an exhaust system (with a DeCat pipe).

The problem is with the exhaust. Before I had a single (fairly large) tail pipe, which was quite noisy but not too bad. Some of the baffles had become dislodged so I asked my mechanic to replace the whole thing with a slightly more subtle backbox/silencer, and top it off with twin tail pipes. To cut a long story short, he basically did a shit job on the installation and made a mess of the back bumper (I'll post pics at some point), but also the noise the car makes is unbearable. It sounds perfect when the engine isn't doing any work (but still rev-ing high) and nice and rumbly at around 1-2K revs when pulling away, but when it hits about 3K (and then again at VTEC) it starts to sound like a trumpet has been welded into the system somewhere. It's really awful. I spoke to him about this and complained that it wasn't what I asked for (i.e. something slightly quieter and neater), but that it just sounded like a banged up SR Nova. He agreed that it wasn't "ideal". He said that it was something to do with reverberation and the gases trying to come out of the exhaust. Aparently there's some sort of device which can sit in the exhaust system and stop this from happening (anti-reverberation device or something). I get quite a lot of louds pops coming out of the exhaust too, which I assume must be unburnt gas igniting in the system? Is that cool or is that lame? :-)

Any ideas what the hell has happened, why my car sounds like an orchestra? Is my mechnic is taking me for a ride to cover up one of his f*ck ups? Finally, does anyone else know a good mechanic in Surrey, UK?

One last thing. I am about to get a new flywheel/clutch. He quoted my around £800 to do the work. Is that a rip off? Can anyone advise on where to buy a good flywheel and clutch assembly for a DelSol?

Many thanks in advance for any help.

Regards,
Jonny Tooze

Originally Posted by Plastic_Fork

1) AEM is a manufacturer of short ram and cold air intakes (CAI). Intake designs and functions have been argued forever and a half, but it really just comes down to your preference. AEM makes great intakes and has put research into each application to ensure best gains, as opposed to just throwing a pipe with a filter on it like most other companies. Plus AEM's filters are the only ones with a velocity stack designed into them. K&N manufactures AEM's filters, but only the AEM filters have the velocity stack. Normal K&N filters do not. For Del Sol's, the filter placement is just behind the fender well on the passenger side. As long as you make sure that the fender well is properly secured, you should be okay and not risk sucking water into the motor. Otherwise you may want to consider a bypass valve to protect it or just go with a short ram intake.

2) What you mention here is commonly referred to as a "test pipe". Pretty much just a metal tube that replaces your catalytic converter. Again, good for power gains and performance, but it will increase the noise your car makes and is not emissions compliant.

3) Priorities: fix anything that's broken. Then work on performance. Again, I would start with the basics of intake, header, and exhaust. It opens up your motor for better performance and sets it up for additional performance upgrades in the future. Otherwise you'll bottleneck your performance. Suspension is next in my opinion - why improve the motor if your car can't handle the load? A good preparation base for the car's improved power will ensure that anything you upgrade can be handled.

4) A nitrous system won't really hurt the motor if done properly. Just be mindful you research nitrous systems before undertaking it. You need increased fuel delivery with nitrous in order to avoid engine damage and keeping nitrous engaged for extended periods will destroy your motor. Most nitrous applications are run for a few seconds at a time. Otherwise you risk serious engine problems. My best friend destroyed his D15 motor this way. He ran nitrous for 15 seconds straight. Granted, he won the race but he literally melted his drive train. Wish I had a camera at the time to get pictures of it. My roommate runs a 75 shot of nitrous, but he's taken the necessary precautions. Plus he has a B18B motor and they're a bit hardier for boosted applications such as turbo or nitrous. You have a B16, so I wouldn't run a shot that large until you have upgraded fuel delivery and made necessary precautions. Beyond this advice, I am less knowledgeable so I suggest you seek help from those that know more and know what they're talking about. Lots of people here don't know what they're doing. Again, nitrous is safe if done properly and it's cheaper than a turbo setup. You're looking at a LOT of work and money to even be able to properly handle a turbo setup on a VTEC motor.