Upgrade recommendations - for VTECH

[jodyfinne]

Just purchased a 1994 Del Sol with the VTEC engine.

I'm a 41 year old female who wants to have fun with this go cart on steroids before turning it over to my Filipino-Caucasian son in two years, on his 18th birthday ("B"'s for Keys).

If you had a cool mom like me... what would you upgrade first?

I know about the K&H air filter (will increase the HP above 160)

What about the performance chip selling on EBAY? Does the car have to
be dyno tested with these components or just with a new exhaust system? I ride/own motorcycles. Installed filters and mufflers.

Want to keep the first upgrades below $500.00

Spent $600 getting a security alarm system, automatic door locks, rear trunk release installed at Good Guys - no payments/interest fo 18 months.

~Jody

[eckoman_pdx]

We'll, First I'll start with what you have put on.

As for a K & N filter, is it the drop in kind or a short ram/cold air intake? A Cold Air intake is usually my recommedation. You get a 1% hp increase for every 11.1 degrees you lower the intake temp, so the fact is sucks in colder, more dense air eqauls more power, usually around 4-5%, but it varies from area to area. A reusable K&N filter is a great filter to use with this, if that's what you have (usually the cone shaped filter is used). A short ram filter gains less power, due to the fact it sucks in hotter air from under the hood. The drop in one really doesn't do as much, because you still have the fairly restrictive stock intake tubing and intake box, so theres only so much you can do airflowise. If you didn't go the short ram/ Cold Air intake route and put a drop in one in...get a good CAI (cold air intake).

As for muffler, was it just a muffler or was it a whole cat-back system? A muffler itself really doesn't gain power, just makes more noise and changes the sound. To get more power, you need to replace the whole exhaust piping, from the catalytic convertor back. 2 1/4" piping is the recommended size to use for the piping. YOu can either buy a "cat-back system" like greddy, apexi, tanabe, etc...or you can buy a "univerisal muffler" and have custom 2 1/4" piping run. Either way, the power gain comes from the whole cat-back system, not just the muffler itself. The muffler itself won't do much powerwise, you need the piping with it. If you already have the muffler, I'd suggest going to a good local muffler shop and having them run custom 2 1/4" piping, have them basicalyy build you a custom cat-back system.

Okay now, after these are done, there is one part of the restrictive stock intake exhaust system left tying up power....the exhuast manifold. Get a good qaulity "header" as they are called in the performance aftermarket. A 4-1 header gives more high end power at the expense of mid end and low end (sometime the mid range is actually lower than stock, depsite higher top power). A 4-2-1 (tri-y) design is more tuned for mid range power. It will still give you a better top end than the stock manifold, but will also have better mid range. I usually recommend this under most circumstances, though some perfer the 4-1 design. A header will be less than $500, so if you have done the exhuast system and intake right, then this is the local next step. If you havn't done them right, I would go and get those done right before doing the header myself, though it's really up to you.

As for the e-bay chips....IMO they are a gimmik. I don't beleive in "miricle chips," something else always messes up, it's to rich, too lean, timing is off, etc...if you want my opinion stay away from these ebay chips. A header is less than $500 and not gimmicky like these ebay chips are, once you get the intake/exhuast out of the way (or now if you aldread did the CAI or short ram and a cat-back), I'd get the header, since you are looking to stay under $500.

A non-power performance is suspension. A good tuend step like the Tein Entery level sets or the H & R cup kits are very good. These are tuned coilovers/springs that comes ewith the shocks also. They will lower the ride height, lowering the center or gravity and also stiffen the spring rate. They will greatly improve handling and looks (though cost more than $500). Also obvious if not done is a good set of wheels/tires. Look for a good forged set you like, look around, there are plenty of good wheels.

As for the first upgrades....I'd recommend the header for you, and if you havn't yet, do the cat-back exhuast and a CAI (if you just used the drop in K & N). Remember, a K & N filter isn't is effective in the stock housing, so a good cone filter K & N with a short ram or CAI is always better for performance. Also, you can get a random technolgys high flow cat to use also. If you only put a muffler on and didn't get a cat-back system or do custom 2 1/4" piping with the muffler, have this put on at the same time as the cat-back system. This cat is high flow, and will give a little hp kick, plus it's street level, so it should pass emissions tests. I'd stay away from ebay chips, they are gimmicks.

All the above mods can be done without dyno time, as no really tuningis needed with them, per say. A dyno will give you a good idea of how much power you are gaining though, since you'll have a baseline number and then the after install numbers. If you are willing to spend on dyno tuning, forget the gimmicky ebay "chips." Get a Hondata, basically a stand alone ecu. It is fully programable, so you can write it tune it for a naturally aspirated motor, a turbo motor, etc. Dyno time is required to tune the hondata, but it will safely help you increase power and safely help your engine reach potential. It's also the last ecu mod he'll ever need. More dyno time may be needed as thing are done or changed, but changes are he will never need a "chip" or another ecu.

I hope this helps a bit.

[Tranzlogic]

I back Eckoman on his reccomendations !!
I would get rather a Greddy or a 1998+ ITR Integra type R header..you can find these on Ebay since you seem to be familiar with it...
And YES he his right, those chips you see are junk..all they do is fool the computer and or dump more fuel or advance your timing..especialy those cheap little 2 dollar resistors from radio shack they sell for 20bucks that say it makes 20hp or some stupid info...Stay away from that stuff
I have my prefrences on what brands and models I think you should get into..but i dont know what kind of money you are workin with and so forth..so I wont throw my 2 cents in on all that....but the header def. neds to be the greddy or the ITR Integra type R ..all the DC,SSautochrome and all that other stuff youll see on ebay are just junk that looks pretty
oh yeah and I too think you should go with a cat-back exhaust system rather than a muffler..as per what eckoman stated....if you decide you want to take our advice and get a cat-back exhause system..there is a selelr on ebay right now selling 2 greddy exhaust systems...one is the " EVO 2 " and that is a great system the other is a "Trust model" which is also pretty good..there both for real good preces right now..id check em out..
Im sure your not tryin to get crazy envolved in modding this car, so stick with the simple bolt on parts, i wouldnt get envolved in Fuel,Timing, so forth....unless you wanted to buy a new P28 chipped ecu..i prefer the JUN program..you can find those on ebay as well

[Plastic_Fork]

Honda motors are probably different than the motors you're used to messing with. Honda motors are already very tuned, so it takes money to squeeze more power out of them. The $500 budget you have won't go very far if you buy quality parts. A decent header (exhaust manifold) and intake will probably use up most of the money. But it's a start and a noticable difference. I would purchase a cat-back system afterwards as well, though a good system will cost probably beyond your budget. These are the basic first mods that I would recommend.

[jodyfinne]

Originally Posted by Plastic_Fork

Honda motors are probably different than the motors you're used to messing with. Honda motors are already very tuned, so it takes money to squeeze more power out of them. The $500 budget you have won't go very far if you buy quality parts. A decent header (exhaust manifold) and intake will probably use up most of the money. But it's a start and a noticable difference. I would purchase a cat-back system afterwards as well, though a good system will cost probably beyond your budget. These are the basic first mods that I would recommend.

Thanks to everyone who responded to my upgrade question. I will start with the K&N filter, short cold-air intake, and a cat-back exhaust system. Save the header for last unless I can get a great deal. Which leads me to the next question: Where do you purchase on-line parts for Del Sols at decent prices? I live in California and prefer not paying local sales tax. But willing to drive in the SF Bay area to a good performance shop that doesn't rip people off... if one exists.

I purchased my 1994 Del Sol on Ebay for $6100... a steal. But I had to fly all the way to Rock Hill, SC and drive back 2900 miles with a car I bought sight unseen. (Expect the digital pics posted on EBAY). Luckily, not that many people knew the difference between VTEC and SI models. The rarity of factory leather and CD changer added to the car. I have the original invoice. This car cost $20,500 ten years ago! And in my humble opinion, is a far superior design to the Honda S2000 that replaced/superseded Del Sol. Although I do like the 16" wheels on the S2000. Makes the car sit up taller. Or so it seems.

~ Jody

Who will have a Clifford alarm system, power door locks, and trunk release installed next week by GoodGuys.

[Plastic_Fork]

Not sure of all the best shops in your area, but I suggest you run over to the Team Del Sol boards in my signature and ask around. All kinds of Del Sol owners in CA that will give you better information than I.

[eckoman_pdx]

Since you live in Cali, you need to make sure the Cold-Air intake, the header, and the exhaust all have Carb Exemption numbers (CARB E.O. numbers). This shows the part has been tasted buy the califorinia air resources board and cirtified as exempt...meaning it's legal. If you purchase a header or intake that's not exempt, you'll fail the visual inspection, even if you pass the emissions test.

DC Sports and Greddy both make carb exempt headers and cat-back exhuast systems (greddy also makes carb exempt turbo kits). AEM makes carb exempt Cold Air and Short ram intakes as well as other products as well (DC Sports makes some carb exempt intakes too). I believe Injen intakes are also carb exempt.

There are other companies that make carb exempt products out there, but these are fairly well know companies, and they don't produce crap like APC and Ractive products are. Just make sure you know what you are buying before you buy it. Brakes, wheels, tires, suspension etc doesn't have/need a carb exemption number, as they have nothing to do with the engine and/or emissons.

engine/exhaust/etc
http://www.greddy.com/
http://www.dcsports.com/
http://www.injen.com/

suspension
http://www.tein.com/
http://www.hrsprings.com/

brakes
http://www.powerslot.com/
http://www.brembo.com/
wheels
http://www.dazzmotorsports.com

[Privatebigandrew]

hold on now....Tranzlogic....are you saying DCsport stuff is crap? Dyno's prove that the best headers for a B16 goes like this....Jacksonracing, DCsport, and ITR. Jackson racing produces good power b/c thew come off the head further before they start to bend, thus letting the exaust gasses flow better. Now there realling isn't a noticable difference in the three, i think it is like .2-.4 HP

[Plastic_Fork]

You could always buy a Hytech header. Best header on the market period. But it'll run you around $1,000 for it. DC Sports headers are hands down the best bang for the buck and I would still recommend them to anyone.