Mechanical Problems... HELP!

[SCHITTE]

(I have 99 Max SE w/ 5 speed)

I've got a few things I need help with... First, my max failed state inspection because the left rear rotor is too thin. Is this a DIY job? How much would it cost to do it myself or to have a shop do it?

Less importantly, a few issues...

My passenger and sometimes my driver door seem very heavy -- it is difficult to close them and you almost have to slam them. Also, in cold weather the problem seems worse though it's warmed up and it still seems to bind or something.

In cold weather, my e-brake seems to lock up after the car sits over night or for a few hours. The passenger rear brake locks and will not release for some time.

Also in cold weather, my power steering seems to hesitate... it seems to shift on and off rapidly while turning the vehicle. This problem is only noticeable at low speeds, but I assume that is because it's easier to turn at high speeds.

Any ideas?

[glregez]

Door Issue....

I just solved the door issue on my 99 max. It was the passenger side door and very hard to close. I tried just about every type of lubricant known to man on the ?device? ( I have no idea what it is called) between the door and the body of the car. you will see what I am taking about just by opening up the door.

Bught a new one, about ($50bucks) took the door panel off (better buy new clips right away cause no one has them but Nissan and they always break no matter how careful you are and what special tool you have). The panel also has some very interesting methods to remove the plastic handle guard and power window assembly. Put the new ?device? , sprayed it with some LP2 and the door works great. About a 2 hour job.

Gary

[Helmuth48]

Brake rotors ......front or rear....in my opinion are a easy DIY job... New ones at AutoZone or Advance approx $20.00 or less each.
I suggest you go buy a aftermarket manual at Autozone or ? it tells you step by step...follow it you can go wrong....
May need one special tool to push back in the caliper cylinder. (new rotors are thicker) or you can use a big C-clamp...

[Helmuth48]

Error.. I should have said "can't" go wrong with the manual....

[Dubbya]

The rear rotor is a DIY job. Go ahead and replace both of them while you are at it.

Tools needed:

Jack & Jack Stands
Four-way or another way to get lugs off
10mm, 12mm, 17mm sockets and ratchet
rear caliper compressor (autozone $10)
wd40

Instructions:

1) Loosen rear wheel lugs with car on the ground.

2) Jack up rear end of the car and place jack stands in appropriate places.

3) Finish taking off rear wheels.

4) Remove the E-brake line from the rear caliper. There is a 10mm bolt on the trailing arm that you will need to remove. Just follow the E-brake line back to the front of the car and you will see it in the rear wheel well area. This will give you some slack in the line to make unhooking the cable a lot easier.

5) Remove the caliper. There are 2 12mm bolts holding the caliper in place. They are sort of tough to break free. After they are out lift up on the caliper. You may need to use a see-saw motion to get the caliper off. Just be careful with the brake fluid line. Once its off place it on the ground.

6) Remove the brake pads. Pay close attention to which on was on the inside and which was on the outside.

7) Remove the torque member. The is the final piece holding the rotor on. There are 2 17mm bolts holding the torque member on. These are a son of a b---- to break free. Dont be afraid to use some force. Once the TQ member is off lay it on the ground.

8) Finally take off your old rotor and put the new one on. Then start reassembling.

9) When you put the caliper back on you will need to compress the piston with the rear caliper compressor. Spray wd40 around the pistion boot so it does not bind. While the wd40 is penetrating, loosen the master cylinder resivior cap but leave it on. This is to decrease back pressure in the brake fluid system. Back pressure can blow a seal. Turn the piston clockwise as far as it will go. Make sure that one of the grooves on the pistion will line up with the alignment pin on the back of the inside brake pad. I am not sure if yours will have these, but mine did. Now just slide the caliper in place and put the bolts in.

Notes:

Make sure your parking brake is off.

Work one side at a time. This way you have a control to look at if you get lost on reassemble.

10mm bolts are not strong. They only need be tightened a little bit past snug.

After everything is put back together you need to set the rear brakes. Do this by engaging and releasing the parking brake about 10 times or until it feels normal again.

Total time for some one not familar 2 to 3 hours.

I take no responsibility if you trash your car or hurt yourself.

Hope this helps.

Dubbya

[Dubbya]

Do not use a C-Clamp to compress rear calipers. You will end up buying new ones.

[BP2K2Max]

i had the same problem with my door in my 95. all it needed was some grease on the door hinge, i don't even think nissan charged me for it. i'd have done it myself but i just couldn't find the grease fitting.

[Helmuth48]

Your right on the rear calipers......Don't use the "C" clamp...thanks for the correction...

[SCHITTE]

Thanks everyone for your help... I went ahead and let the shop do the replacement... they wanted $125 for the rear rotors and if I did it myself, I would have had to pay them to reinspect it (another $60). So, I figured with the difference in price it wasn't worth my time to save the $30-40.

Thanks for the tip on the door, I'll call a dealer and see if anyone wants to grease those hinges.

I got the window tint peeled off... did that myself following instructions from online, now I just have to manage to get all the glue off the windows. Then finally, I might make it past the inspector...