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  #1  
Old 05-12-2004, 12:45 PM
mack737 mack737 is offline
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Rear Main Seal Replacement

I have a rear main seal leaking and I am looking to repair it myself but am wondering about a rough estimate for down time to make the repair. It is a daily driver so I cant have it out of commission for too long.

I am also looking for any other tips from someone who has changed it before.

Thanks!
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Old 05-12-2004, 01:29 PM
Dale Aeppli Dale Aeppli is offline
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Re: Rear Main Seal Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by mack737
I have a rear main seal leaking and I am looking to repair it myself but am wondering about a rough estimate for down time to make the repair. It is a daily driver so I cant have it out of commission for too long.

I am also looking for any other tips from someone who has changed it before.

Thanks!
HI , IF YOU EMAIL ME AT [email protected] I'LL SEND INFO, & PICTURES OF CHANGE DALE
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Old 05-28-2004, 01:06 PM
KottonmouthSoldier KottonmouthSoldier is offline
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Re: Rear Main Seal Replacement

To change the rear main oil seal the engine has to be lifted up to reach it. its almost impossible to do yourself. i took it in and got it done for $800. but good luck if your able to do it
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Old 06-07-2004, 10:03 PM
Jamuel Jamuel is offline
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Well I just changed mine (GC Ltd 96 V8, 5.2L)--and I guess saved about 750 bucks since the parts (gaskets and a new oil pump) were only ~$50. The only hard part is that that you have to jack up the T-case to remove the crossmember so that the you can drop the exhaust (the Y-pipe) from the manifold as it boxes in the oil pan otherwise. You might need a friend to help get the exhaust down (and back up).

And you might have to jack the t-case in a couple different spots so you can get the right clearance for the pan to come out--but it WILL come out--you don't need to disconnect/remove any other supports or control arms.. I had the Haynes book and it's pretty much spot on in terms of the proceedure.

I'd figure about 2 hours if you have a helper or maybe 4-6 if you have to do it all by your self. I had a bit of problem getting the Y-pipe back into position at the manifold because I was doing it by myself and it's a heavy SOB--but a neighbor came over to help and it it was a snap!

One thing that sux is that the manifold pipe connections are bolt and nuts--and the nuts aren't secured to the pipe/manfold connector so my neighbor helped out a lot by holding on the nuts as I wrenched the bolts into place. (But I guess if you are solo then you could always silcone the nuts into place first . . .)

Plan on replacing the oil pan gasket, oil pump (why not--you have to pull it to get to the rear cap), the rear seal, oil filter, and oil. You'll also need some RTV when replacing the cap.

It's a bit complicated at first but once you get past having do all the procedures which are individually pretty easy--you can totally do it with handtools and jack stands . . .

G-luck!

Cheers,

JPS
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