Thick oil sludge all over valve springs and camshafts

[spyorg]

I just had a timing belt/water pump job done on my 95 ls after 97500 miles and when the tech removed the valve cover, I saw thick dark brown and blackish oily deposits all over the valve springs and on the camshaft pivot points. You could barely make out the springs for all this viscous brown stuff that was on them. There was this dark thick hard carbonized stuff on the camshafts.

The tech told me this was the result of a lack of regular oil changes and that he would not clean it since it would get into the engine and make matters worse. He recommended frequent oil changes to fix the problem. I bought this car recently, and I did one oil change since I got it, but I am not sure how the previous owner cared for his car.

Now as I posted before, I get poor mileage from this car but it runs great with no problems aside from the 15 miles to the gallon gas mileage. My exhaust is a bit black but no smoke as far as I can tell. So my question is this: Is the tech correct? Should I simply change oil more frequently and this would dissolve the deposits, or should I have this cleaned by a pro? Should I try to clean it myself?

By the way, I bought my timing belt, water pump, camshaft seals, crankshaft seals, drive belts and valve cover gasket kits on ebay and he replaced them all for 400.00. So the entire job cost around 600.00. The job went well except for the part where he lowered the jack and the power steering pump got caught between the back of the firewall and the engine and snapped some thing which I did not see, but I heard the crack and something went flying. All I found was a bolt under the car. He said there was no real damage but I did see a dent at the back of the engine compartment. What do you think? Fair price?

[scallywag]

I would get some of that crap that you put in your oil to clean it up. I don't know exactally what it is, or what it is called, but you should be able to get it at any gas station, or napa. Just put it in with your oil. I would also get oil changes every 1000 for a few thousand miles. If you are getting black on your exhaust you might be burning oil. Check your oil every time you get gas, and keep an eye on it.

[1995 geo tracker]

i really wouldn't mess with it , you start trying to break that stuff loose and you could stop up you oil pump pick up , just do your oil change every 3000 miles and leave it alone

[5spd]

I would'nt touch it. If you can afford to, have oil changes (with filter) performed at about 1500 miles and use synthetic. You may also want to think about having a new oil pick-up installed. These pro-active measures are no guarantee nor cheap but better than doing nothing (which probably will lead to motor failure). Hondas are tolerant but not bullet proof.

[whtteg]

Either leave it alone or tear the motor down and rebuild it.

[spyorg]

Ok thanks guys, I guess I will leave it alone for now and do the oil changes more frequently. I just got the car so I don't want to go into the expense of a rebuild. Will that stuff eventually dissolve with oil changes or will it remain that way?

[integrasedan]

I agree, Never do an Engine Flush, it will clog the oil screen.

Best way to clean engine is to change oil very often, try Valvoline Maxlife with new filters monthly or bimonthly changes

[spyorg]

Thanks. The tech recommended Castrol GTX. Guess i'll be out 20 bucks every month for the next year!

[whtteg]

Stay away from any mineral based oil such as Castrol GTX. Get a 100% synthetic oil such as Mobil 1, Amsoil, or Royal purple etc. Stay away from Redline oils as well.

[spyorg]

Man! I just bought 5 quarts of Castrol gtx today! I should have listened to u guys!

Listen to this one: We pay around 20 bucks around here for an oil change at any gas station using their oil. I drove over to this one station to get it done but I told the guy I have my own oil and filter. He said it's still 20 bucks cause it's the same amount of work. I don't think I ever stepped on the gas in reverse before but today I did!

OK I have to ask. Why do they sell engine flush chemicals if they are so bad. Do they ever work?

Here is what Valvoline Pyroil claims: Pyroil Engine Flush melts sludge and cleans engines in five minutes. It improves circulation, frees sticky valves and lifters and dissolves power-robbing deposits.

Dissolves sludge
Cleans engine in 5 minutes
Opens restricted oil passages
Frees sticky valves and lifters
Improves oil circulation
Dissolves power-robbing deposits
Cleans sticky piston rings
Reduces blowby

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=29

I am tempted to try it before the oil change (after I return the GTX to Autozone and get a synthetic). Am I taking a big risk here? I'll wait for your opinions. Thanks!

[1995 geo tracker]

trick is to use it before the engine gets all gummed up

[thepolishmafia1337]

just change the oil normally. hopefully everytime that you do the freash detergents will soak up some buildup. but you won't know the difference. as for the fuel consumption it could be as small as a ruptured diaphram in your fuel preassure regulator. or a leaky injector, or a bias lean o2 sensor, many things will cause poor fuel economy, no driveability problems, and no Malfunction indicator lamp.

[integrasedan]

Originally Posted by spyorg

I told the guy I have my own oil and filter. He said it's still 20 bucks cause it's the same amount of work.

Why do they sell engine flush chemicals if they are so bad. Do they ever work?

this gonna be long explain, sorry.

They should charge you for labor only, since you have your own parts. $10-15 for labor oil change is more reasonable. They probably overcharge their cheap oil/filter costs and want you to use their products so they make more profit.

Products are sold to make profit. Same goes as Engine Flushes. Engine Flushes do there job right by loosing the slugde, I don't argue with that. Their advertisment statement is true. It's just that the filter and oil screen can get clogged up after cleaning that oil won't flow to critical parts in time.

If you look carefully on the engine flush products, most will have in small print," Do not use on high milage/extremly dirty engines without checking/cleaning oil pan screen." not exact, but something close as I read it once on a bottle.

Also by loosing dirt/sludge you may get oil leaks because the dirt against the old shrinking seals in high milage engines prevented the oil from leaking.

All oil have detergents, however synthetics have higher detergents to keep engine clean. Some older engines get oil leaks but not all using synthetics. Valvoline Maxlife has a little more detergent than regular oils but less than synthetics. Always use new oil filter when change oil.

[spyorg]

Thanks for all the input.

I returned the Castrol and got Valvoline Synthetic (Autozone did not have Maxlife and I was too lazy to go looking) at twice the cost. Got it done for ten bucks and five dollar tip. Works out to $35.00 per oil change. Guess I will have to seriously consider getting some jack-stands and a hydraulic jack and do it myself. That still leaves the problem of dumping the spent oil.

The techs suggested using cheap oil for the flushes then switch to synthetic but I decided against it so I will be broke soon if this keeps up!

[whtteg]

I would run the Synthetic oil that you just put in for about 3500 miles then I would change the oil about 7500 miles if you are using a good filter, please say you are not using fram? Mobil 1, K&N, or Amsoil filters are the way to go. There is one more filter that is really good too but I can't remember the name of it off the top of my head. Try googling oil filter tests, etc and see what you come up with. Good luck.

P.S also I would run some fuel injector cleaner too, be careful though and mix it correctly or you could damage your fuel injectors. The best thing to do is search and read as much as you can so that when you go to the store you will know exactly what you are looking for.