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  #1  
Old 05-05-2004, 11:12 AM
lucky03602 lucky03602 is offline
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audio comp car....

i dont know if anyone is into it and i also dont know if anyone on this site has done it but im currently in the process of turnin my 96 metro hatch into a comp car. what im gonna have in the end is a custom box in the trunk taking the whole thing up. basically from what it looks like there is supposed to be a piece of vinal or something that covers tha trunk area from the back window, well mine doesnt have it so im gonna have tha box made to fit 2 12" alpine type r's, but the top piece of the box will fit onto the groved parts that the vinal thing shold go on (you follow me??) also ill be running 6.5" alpine type s components up front, 6.5" alpine type s coaxial's in the back and also on my back panels im gonna have 6x9" brackets made onto the unibody and then a hole cut on the plastic panel to fit the grills for the 6x9" (also alpine type s). im still deciding on where to put the tweets for the front components, either on the front pillar or top of door.

to clear stuff up the only reason im goin with alpine is because i dont need anything really loud, just enough to make me happy, and alpine is very easily accesable from where i live, i dont have to order out

this thread is mainly and idea opener, if anyone has any suggestions feel free to note it, and if anyone wants to use these ideas feel free.
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Old 05-07-2004, 03:38 PM
dubt dubt is offline
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Re: audio comp car....

If you find the bass is not loud enough, and I have a metro so the alternator is not gonna supply much for alot of amps, get either a really efficient amp like i got the Alpine mono all digital amp (544wrms@2ohms) and really efficient speakers. I had two jensen 10's (xs1010) at 92db/watt sens. and they were louder on the same amp as when i tried mtx 8000's 10's because they were 88db/watt. so i traded the mtx's for two 15's directed audio at 90.9 db/watt and they POUND. I'm up to the 140 range for decibels. so sensitivity (speakers) and efficiency (amps) are the two keys for bass without power draw. I have a thump 700 watt amp and my headlights kept going out. after closer inspection, the power draw from the amp was ruining the headlight harness from lack of power to the lights. after i got the alpine amp the problem has NEVER returned, I have more RMS power, and enough bass that i set off car alarms, richter scales, and the recent quake in cali even though i live in washington. please feel free to ask me more audio questions you mave have.
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Old 05-07-2004, 03:40 PM
dubt dubt is offline
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Re: audio comp car....

correction i first had the thump for my first system the jensens were 139db!!
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Old 05-08-2004, 06:47 AM
lucky03602 lucky03602 is offline
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Re: audio comp car....

yea i plan on running all alpine like i said so ill be running a class d mono amp for the subs. im currently using an optime yellow top battery which is definetly helping the whole charge problem, and i plan on either using a cap, getting a heftier alternator, or (haha) using another battery if i have too.
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Old 05-08-2004, 01:24 PM
geozukigti geozukigti is offline
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You could always upgrade to a larger alternator. Or use a high voltage (14.4+) aftermarket alternator. To protect the electronics on the car itself, run the alternator closed circuit with the amp. Direct grounds and positive lines to and from the 2nd battery, external voltage regulator, and mount the alternator to the a/c compressor bracket. Should be good for a huge amp, since it would have nothing else drawing off of it. Or hook up something like this http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/12979.html
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Old 05-09-2004, 11:38 AM
lucky03602 lucky03602 is offline
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Re: audio comp car....

i dont think i need to do all that, besause im not gonna be running a huge system, basically im gonna be running a class d mono 500x1 @ 2 ohm amp, but both subs take 200rms max so ill be running them at roughly 150-175rms each or 300-350 rms off the amp, or a little under 3/4 of the way up (gain) and as for my amp to run my speakers its 55x4 (rms) which is perfect, so ill be running in all 520-590 rms in all, which isnt alot if you know anything about car stereos. i actually figured on a upgraded 14.4v alternator and a 1 farad cap. with that i figured id be more then fine with both the car electronics, and the 4 gauge wire off the cap to power the amps.
also i have to give geozukigti mad props because not only has he posted answers to all my mechanical questions, now i know he knows electronics too!! im definetly glad to have you on this forum!!!
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