Bignosey, I checked the brakes and...

[Peter Solarik]

Thanks again for your detailed input on my problem.
I just put back on the wheels. Found that front brakes' pads are bad. Right side rotor has a big, deep groves grinded in. Rear brakes have almost no wear (drums and shoes).
Could it be that the brake pedal has a long travel because the front pads are almost gone?
I clamped with special gripping wisegrips the for hoses (upper) and the pedal did not go down after that. I hope that replacing the rotors and pads will fix the problem. Maybe, just maybe the master cylinder does not need to be replaced?
Before I run to get a new master cylinder, I want to consult with you.
Thanks for your time.
Peter Solarik

[Flatrater]

For a fellow Czech!

Most low brake pedal conditions are the result of air in the system.Other less frequent causes of excessive pedal travel include the following conditions:

• Hydraulic system leakage

Pedal travel is the distance that the pedal moves toward the floor from a fully released position.

Use the following procedure in order to measure the brake pedal travel:

1. With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal a minimum of three times in order to exhaust the vacuum assist from the power booster.

2.Hook the end of a tape measure over the top edge of the brake pedal. Measure the distance to the rim of the steering wheel.

3.Depress the brake pedal with approximately 445 N·m (100 lbs) of force while the brakes are cold, then remeasure brake pedal travel. Pedal travel should not exceed 74 mm (2.91 in).

I would also manually adjust up the rear brakes, to help in the stopping of the car.