No "real" info....???

[bonz]

Greetings all~
I have been able to find NO "REAL" info on our 83 Suburban. Most all the info from the over-the-counter manuals is general. If there is a reference to our particular 'burban it states to see the "underhood decal" on the cowling for specifics. It appears that the couling, for whatever reason, has been changed or the stickers removed before we bought it ............needless to say, I don't know the proper timing or any other pertinent info I need. I've looked in all the scrapyards, used car lots and private owners (selling a suburban) I can find and no '83's to scab numbers from. I'd like to change the carb as well, but don't have a clue what to change it to; the former owner bought one (un tested or preset) and just bolted it on.......needless to say, it was basically ruined before we even knew it existed. In addition, I have called Chevy (GM) and ran around like a chicken w/ my head cut off and that was also to no avail; I couldn't get a straight answer w/ one exception; "we no longer stock that part number" (being the part number for the "underhood decal". Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
'bonz

[jfmctlaw]

I went on ebay and searched for "1983 suburban" and found a few trucks for sale. You could email these owners and see if they will give you the info. Just make sure you have the same engines. You could also search for a local 4x4 club for info. Also how about a performance shop that does 'lift kits', they would probably have contacts or info.

[dirty dan]

Do you know the engine size??? 1/2 Ton??? 2 or 4 wheel drive? Give us something to work with.

[bonz]

Sounds more than fair. It's a 1983 Chevy Suburban, 1/2 ton (by vin, but by the frame, lugs, springs, etc it's actually at least a 3/4 ton), 4x4, four-speed auto trans, 5.7 ltr 350 cid small block V8, ac (OOC), cruise (OOC), pwr steering, 6-lug wheels, pwr windows/locks, "L"-type by VIN#, any thing else you need, Please feel free to ask...
Thank you for your time and assistance.
'bonz

[bonz]

jfmctlaw~
Thank you for the suggestions. I shall attempt to do so asap.
There are a few "performance" shops in the area I've tried, however they are mostly into ruining trucks; lowering them 3" from the ground, choppin' them, usin' them for rolling concerts, etc........and hardly any spoke English...........LOL
I will try and see if any of the Jeep clubs have any Chevy contacts.......With all the Chevy power-plants in Jeeps (mine included), there may be an avenue there too......
Thank you very much.....
'bonz

[dirty dan]

bonz,
Sounds like you got a cross thread there.
As you face the front of the engine, is the timing tab at 12 o'clock or 2 o'clock???

[bonz]

dirty dan~
"cross thread" ??? is that a reference to the hodgepodge of parts they seemed to use that year in order to build our truck ??? lol, or am I missin' the big picture ???
As far as the timing tab... our tab is basically at 12:00 w/ the 4BTDC mark being basically bullseyed in the center; aligned w/ the crankshaft.
Thanx for your assistance thus far.
'bonz

[dirty dan]

Hodge-podge of parts!!!!
Looks like the right generation engine by where the timing tab is located. I think that the engine info will be pretty much the same for small blocks through 1986 model year.

For your 1983 CHEVROLET TRUCK C20 3/4 TON SUB
TIMING SPECIFICATION 4 DEGREES BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTER


SET AT WARM IDLE SPEED (700 RPM)
DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM HOSE DISCONNECTED & PLUGGED
TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL (PARKING BRAKE ENGAGED)

This information and most general tune up / parts poop is free on the AutoZone website. I would start looking for a factory service manual set. Ebay is a good source for these. You can usually buy the set for around <$100.00. There is a website alldata.com that has decent info as well, but there is a subscription cost and requires yearly renewal.

[bonz]

Dirty Dan~
Thank you for your time and info......I have a few questions/comments concerning the info you submitted.
>Timing~check
>Warm Idle Speed~is that 700 rpm with the AC on or off; to "load" the engine so the rpm won't drop too much when it's turned on ???
>Distributor~ours doesn't have a vacuum line as I first thought (unless I just haven't found it yet); but it does have a four-prong electrical connector from part of the wiring harness
>Transmission~is Neutral better than having it in Park; if so, could you explain why please.
Additionally......... how soon should the transmission be shifting out of first w/ normal usage ??? Ours usually shift really quickly; usually 1/3 to 1/2 way through an intersection from a red-light......
Thank you once again for your time, assistance and Patience with me in my quest for the "unknown"...
'bonz

[dirty dan]

Don't load the engine when timing. You should have an idle up solenoid for the A/C. If no hoses to distributor (and no place for any) you have mechanical advance and shouldn't have to disable it. I don't think there's any advantage to neutral when timing.
As far as the shifting, what transmission do you have? If you have a vacuum modulator on it, I'd start there.

[bonz]

When there is no vacuum hose or fitting to the dist. but there is a four-prong connector, doesn't that indicate electronic-controlled timing ??? If that's what you mean by mechanical timing, I understand. That being said........I don't have to unplug the connector when I'm setting the timing; cause it does make quite a difference when timing is set unplugged and then plugged back in afterward......?!?!?

I do have a vacuum modulator on my tranny. I have bought a new one (just in case) but am not sure the old one is bad ??? Any tests/checks to confirm this ??? In addition, I am planning to work on the modulator as soon as the timing/carb issues are resolved.
Thanx
'bonz

[dirty dan]

I wouldn't think the '83 would have the EST ignition (where you disconnect the black & tan wire). I suspect what you have is basically weights in the distributor.
I'm not sure how to test a vacuum modulator, they were always so cheap we'd just replace them if they were suspect. With the modulator (I haven't owned one like that in years) on my old TH350's & TH400's, it seemed that if your shift was quick or late you either had a vacuum problem to the modulator or the modulater was bad. They used to be made with an adjusting screw where you could set your shift. Most of the guys I knew who tried that adjusting, wound up buying a new modulator because they never got their shift back right again.