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| Maintenance problems, fixes. |
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#1
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1.) Mostly when engine is cold (on occasion when warmed up) when I am taking of from a stop I give it medium throttle if the car shifts anywhere from 2500-4000rpms it will shift hard as hell and jerk the crap out of the whole car - it'll make the back end squat. HOWEVER, it I give it really light throttle and let it shift under 2400rpms it'll shift like silk AND if I giver' hell and shift over 5000rpms it'll shift very smoothly. This all happens on the 1st to 2nd shift (auto trans) What the heck is the problem? There is no difference with the power/comfort toggle.
I bought the car with 99,xxx miles on it and I've read on E-pinions.com that 100k miles the torque converter can go bad - true? I have 104k on the car now. I pretty much baby the throttle now to keep from breaking things. 2.) When I am slowing down to a stop I get this faint little whine from the engine area - sounds like a cop My dad thought it was a vacuum leak, but it goes away when I put the car in neutral then slow to a stop. Sounds like a gear lash or something? I am clueless about these cars, any help is appreciated. Thanks..tim-may |
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#2
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i think you better take it into an aamco shop or the dealer before things get worse.
__________________
1998 Prelude SS - TEIN HA with upper pillows, SSR Integrals 17x7 with SP8000 (215/45), GReddy Evo catback, Iceman Comp Intake, DC Sports header, Apexi VAFC, ZEX 55 shot with bottle heater, NOS blanket, Factory Body Kit, Spoon F/R tower bars, JDM Foglamps, Carbon Fiber trim, Razo pedals &knobs, Fiamm Dual air horn Future Mods: Lighten car, 2nd 10lbs nitrous bottle would be nice too. 2001 G20 P11 AT- TEIN NA, TRM Snipers 17x7 with Potenza RE910 (215/45), Arospeed Dual-outlet Muffler, K&N Drop-in Airfilter, WW Front Lip, Nakamichi MB75 1DIN 6CD Changer/Receiver, FIAMM Dual Air horns, Levoc Pedals, PIAA (H4 Superwhite H3 Ion Crystal, 168 SuperWhite) 2002 WRX MT- TEIN HA's with upper pillow mounts, 1000Miglia HT3 17x7 with sumitomo HTR+ 225/45/17, painted side skirts, Cusco front & rear strut bar, Whiteline rear swaybar, aluminum endlinks, Blitz NUR Catback, HKS seq. BOV, factory front lip, rear valance, Kartboy short shifter and bushings. Future mods: dressup wheels with Potenza S03 225/45/17 tires, TurboXS UTec, maybe an uppipe. by then, it'll be fast enough.fiamm dual air horns. |
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#3
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Have any idea what aamco will charge to give me a diagnosis? I'm only asking because I'm awfully low on funds right now (who ain't right?) I'm in the process of getting a second job to help pay for things - it'll be another week before I start.
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#4
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I have the exact same prob, someone told me its probably the engine mounts. I'd have someone that knew cars to take a gander at it, i've been told where they are. Follow this link:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...4&goto=newpost Let me know how it goes |
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#5
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Have a look at the 2nd and 3rd paragraph in this link:
http://www.se-r.net/transaxle_clutch/auto_lsd_info.html
__________________
"The cause of liberty becomes a mockery if the price to be paid is the wholesale destruction of those who are to enjoy liberty." -- Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." -- Benjamin Franklin "The biggest cause of trouble in the world today is that the stupid people are so sure about things and the intelligent folks are so full of doubts." -- Bertrand Russell |
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#6
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Wow, very informative article there. Thank you T4 Primera..
tim-may |
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