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#1 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: venus, Texas
Posts: 5
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'95 3.2 compressor clutch removal
My clutch is locked up. I have a recovery machine and license, but I mainly work on one A/C system, and am not familiar with this one. I need to replace some lifters anyway, so I'm thinking I'll probably pull the radiator to get to the timing belt. At that point, I figure the compressor will be pretty accessible, just wanna know what I need to get the clutch off. The Chilton's manual doesn't show any A/C stuff- no help as usual.
Thanks for any info. Steve. |
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#2 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Spokane, Washington
Posts: 323
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I'm looking at the 1995.5 factory service manual right now.
Use drive plate holder (J-33939) to prevent the drive plate from rotating and remove the drive plate bolt. Use drive plate puller (J-33944-A) and forcing screw (J-33944-4) to remove the drive plate. Remove shims. Remove snap ring. Use pulley puller pilot (J-38424), pulley puller (J-8433) and pulley puller leg (J-24092) to remove the pulley assembly. Loosen screw and disconnect coil lead wire connector. Loosen three screws and remove the field coil. Whew, reads like stereo instructions. BTW, clutch clearance between drive plate and the pulley assembly is 0.01 - 0.02 in. Drive plate bolt torque is 113 in/lbs. Hope this helps. Dale |
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#3 | |
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AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: venus, Texas
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Re: '95 3.2 compressor clutch removal
Thanks, Dale. Sounds like it's similar to others I HAVE done, which is gonna translate to pullers I can find and some BF screwdrivers, which always leaves room for letting out the magic gas
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#4 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Spokane, Washington
Posts: 323
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Re: Re: '95 3.2 compressor clutch removal
LOL, the magic gas.
Maybe I don't have enough of that in my system. I think the A/C has not worked very well on my Rodeo. It cools, but on really hot days, the interior is a little on the warm side. With the system on and viewing the sight glass, the gas looks foggy when the compressor comes on. I've thought about buying gauges at the auto parts store and doing it myself. It didn't appear to be too difficult to recharge it. I could pay someone to do it, but if I bought the gauges, I could recharge other cars in the future. Any opinion on this? Dale |
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#5 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Crestwood, Kentucky
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I used to mess with systems with the old magic gas in them before it became illegal for mere mortals to have anything to do with R-12.
I think your 95.5 probably has R-134 which is (allegedly) much friendler to the ozone. You can get a decent set of R-134 manifold guages from Harbor Freight Tools for under $50. If you have the older flavor, you might be out of luck since only licensed techs get to buy these things (I think!) If your sight glass is cloudy, you are likely low on gas. You can buy R-134 at Walmart for $3-$4 per can depending on the brand. Good Luck! JWS |
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#6 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Spokane, Washington
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Yes, my Rodeo uses R-134. I'll take a look at the gauges at Harbor Freight although it is dangerous for me to go in there. I'm always finding something that I "need".
Thanks, Dale |
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#7 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Crestwood, Kentucky
Posts: 154
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I know what you mean. My wife teases me that I buy tools just to keep other guys from having them...
JWS |
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