98 eclipse turbo valve ticking

[vwpu4me]

the valve will tick only at idle. and only when it feels like it not all of the time. the oil pressure is kinda low at idle but ok at normal driving. any adjustments on the valves. help me it's my daughters car oh only 69.000 on engine

[JoeWagon]

I have ~7,200 miles on my engine. It has had lifter tick since ~2,000. It's slightly annoying but nothing to try and fix. It's caused by the fluid inside or around the lifters being cold and not flowing well, or something similar.

Oil pressure dropping at idle is normal, and it happens on every car. At lights my pressure will go close to the bottom line, then go back to around the middle a few seconds of normal driving.

If you want to read more about lifter tick, check here: http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q...#myengineticks

Good luck.

[ashah000]

I have read that a lot of people say that it goes away with a different oil filter. What kind are you using.

[JoeWagon]

I've used a oem mitsu, fram, and napa gold.. ticked on all of them. non-synthetic oil though.

[ashah000]

I would try puralator. I was going to use an OEM mitsu or an OEM mopar. But then I found out that it's just other filters with the name stamped on it. Well thats at least for OEM mopar.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

[vwpu4me]

[quote=JoeWagon]I have ~7,200 miles on my engine. It has had lifter tick since ~2,000. It's slightly annoying but nothing to try and fix. It's caused by the fluid inside or around the lifters being cold and not flowing well, or something similar.

Oil pressure dropping at idle is normal, and it happens on every car. At lights my pressure will go close to the bottom line, then go back to around the middle a few seconds of normal driving.

If you want to read more about lifter tick, check here: [url]http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/ thank you

[JoeWagon]

There's a new article on dsmtuners that says Lucas oil stabilizer stops the problem. You might look into trying a quart of that.

"hi performance Lucus heavy duty oil Stabalizer"

[96spyderman]

Originally Posted by vwpu4me

the valve will tick only at idle. and only when it feels like it not all of the time. the oil pressure is kinda low at idle but ok at normal driving. any adjustments on the valves. help me it's my daughters car oh only 69.000 on engine

Don't know if this will help.... I found this on another site...
Description: The Noisy Lifter Solution
Type: Howto
Added By: Webmaster
Project Talon has 97,500 miles on the speedo and the lifters don't utter a sound. But, it wasn't always this way.

From the day I purchased it to the day I performed the following miracle (I use this word because you will too) my Talon made horrible lifter noises. Anyways here's a "low-buck" solution that's guaranteed to put a smile on you face. BTW, I have 16 new lifters for sale that I prematurely bought before trying one of the oldest tricks in the book (and now, one of my favorite).

Material You Will Need:

1-quart Dexron II Transmission Fluid
1-quart of cold water
2-feet of Vacuum tubing
4-New NGK BP7ES spark plugs (BR7ES-11 non-turbo)
1-quart of any brand "motor flush"
5-quarts of Fresh Mobil-1 15W-50 Oil
1-New Oil Filter

First, make sure your Diamond Star is up to normal operating temperature. Find the direct-port vacuum line at the throttle body and on the driver's side of the manifold (where the VPC pressure sensor is usually plumbed into).

Have a friend bring the engine speed of the car up to 3500 rpm. Run your vacuum line to the direct-port source at the throttle body. Submerse the other end in the bottle of transmission fluid. Keeping the tube slghtly pinched, regulate the flow of fluid into the engine as your friend works the throttle to keep engine speed between 3500 and 4500 rpm. Large puffs, no, LARGE CLOUDS of smoke will begin to emit from the tailpipe and possibly under the hood (if you have any exhaust leaks). After half of the bottle is used. Repeat with the water using half of that bottle. After you locate the vacuum port on the driver's side of the manifold, repeat the process. First use the tranny fluid, then follow with the water.

When you finish this process which will remove the carbon buildup within the cylinder, follow the manufacturers directions for the engine oil "motor flush." Follow with an oil change and replace the plugs (the chamber cleaning process can foul the plugs). That's it, you're done.

Now, go out and drive the car and feal the power. If your valves were gummed up before, it'll feel like these an extra 20 ponies under the hood as throttle response will be tremendous.

Since my car had so many mile on it, I repeated this process at the next oil change. For the heck of it, I did a cylinder leakdown test. The results were amazing...two percent leakdown in each cylinder. Typically, cars with this kind of mileage would be happy to see 6 to 12 percent.

Giving You A Lift,
Michael Ferrara

Posted on the Talon-digest by Michael Ferrara of Turbo Magazine on 3 Apr 1996.

[ashah000]

Dont do motor flush on a old car. It will mess up a lot. The motor will be gone that week.

[jdoug]

I've tried many different combinations of oil and filters, and none had any effect on lifter tick for me. Filters I have used include Purolator, Amsoil, and K&N. Oils I have tried include Castrol, Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Redline.

[ashah000]

I did not have lifter tick with Castrol syntec blend, then when I went to Mobil 1 syn. I got the tick.