Air conditioner pooped out

[Anthony Cosenza]

Need guidance . . '97 Cutlass supreme .
I have a particular question regarding potential fuse problem . .
When I call for air, the electronic signal does not activate the rotation of the compressor wheel . .
Does that mean the fuse is shot? . . or does the need for additional
R-134 (post freon chemical) shut down that function automatically? . .

many thanks for your help . .

[chavocrazy69]

Wrong forum...sorry

[byroncobray]

there is couple of thing will prevent a/c clutch from engaging. Low on charge will prevent the clutch from coming on second, fuse to the clutch is blown. In order to find out which is the problem I suggest you take it to a mechanic and let him figure it out unless you are a mechanic and have expreince in a/c repair.

[Doug Rodrigues]

Probably a low pressure switch cut-off problem. It keeps the pump from being ruined. It's a normal condition for a compressor seal to slowly lose pressure over the years. Look at the receiver/drier glass window. If you don't see fluid or too many bubbles, it's too low of a charge. If you know someone with gauges, the high pressure side should indicate 250 to 300 psi when properly charged with the engine running. If you don't know which is the low and the high connections, and are completely baffled, DON'T attempt to do your own refill. That can CAN explode if you attach it to the pressure side instead of the suction side. The fittings are different, but with the gauges attached, things can still feed the wrong way if you turn the wrong valves. OR....you can read up on the instructions first and save yourself a lot of money and have the gauges paid for. It's not rocket science.

Once you know the proper procedure, be sure to hold the cans upside down to get the liquid to flow out of the cans. Holding the cans right-side-up only allows gas into the system. The average system takes three cans for a complete charge. Yours would take less than that. If your system were completely drained, you have a major problem in the form of a leak in the system. It could be a leaking seal in the compressor or a loose fitting in the hoses/pipes. In that case the system would require "evacuation," the fancy term for putting a suction pump on and going to negative 30 psi for 30 minutes and checking for leaks. That removes all contaminating moisture from the system. Only then should refrigerant be put back into the system. That would require the use of the gauges, gauge manifold, and a "sniffer" to check for leaks after the procedure is done. If you're handy with tools and a wire welder, an old refrigerator compressor from the junk yard can be converted into a suction pump. The gauges can be had for about$70. OR...you can just pay a professional a couple of hundred or so to do it for you.