No heat on drivers side

[ghutchin]

I get no heat out of my drivers side climate no matter what the temp setting is. A/C works fine. Heat does work fine out of the passenger side and defrost.

Thanks

-Glenn

[RobertHammen]

Your "blend box" is either stuck or broken.

[ghutchin]

Where is the drivers side blend box.

Thanks

[bfbfbf]

I have a 95 Aurora with a heater problem where in heat mode the passenger side blows hot air (just fine) and the driver side blows cold air. This situation is the same weather with the selector in vent (dash), heat (floor) or defrost (window) mode.

So I suspect the "blend box" as I have seen in the forum. Where is this located?

Thanks all in advance.....

[thumpin455]

My '95 works exactly like bfbfbf's '95. The passenger's feet will freeze during the winter so thats just one more reason why I love to drive my roara.

[fortco]

Mines just the opposite, drivers side blows hot, passenger side blows cold no matter where things are set.

[bfbfbf]

I just fixed this problem on sunday. The actuator motor (about the size of a circuit breaker) that controls the air mix is broken.

If you take of the kick panel on the floor behind the radio (next to the driver right foot) and then do your best Houdini to crawl under the steering wheel, you will see 3 motors on the duct work on the driver side - top, middle, bottom. The middle motor is the culprit. It is controled by the temp setting buttons. You'll need a 7/32 socket to remove the 2 screws - total time was about 30 mins.

For my '95, the part number on the old part was 16164972 - it cross references to a new one.

FYI....The bottom motor controls air flow for "floor OR not floor OR halfway", the top motor controls the air flow for "vent OR window defrost OR a halfway".

Have fun....

[ghutchin]

Do you know the new part number?

Thanks

[aldg]

Hi group:

Here'a the text of an email I sent to bfbfbf just a few minutes ago:

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Nov 28, 2005 at apx 7:48 pm pst

Hi bfbfbf:

I read your posting on the Olds Aurora Automotive Forums, which said the following:

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11-02-2004, 09:04 AM
No heat on driver side - apssenger just fine
bfbfbf, AF Newbie

I just fixed this problem on sunday. The actuator motor (about the size of a circuit breaker) that controls the air mix is broken.

If you take of the kick panel on the floor behind the radio (next to the driver right foot) and then do your best Houdini to crawl under the steering wheel, you will see 3 motors on the duct work on the driver side - top, middle, bottom. The middle motor is the culprit. It is controled by the temp setting buttons. You'll need a 7/32 socket to remove the 2 screws - total time was about 30 mins.

For my '95, the part number on the old part was 16164972 - it cross references to a new one.

FYI....The bottom motor controls air flow for "floor OR not floor OR halfway", the top motor controls the air flow for "vent OR window defrost OR a halfway".

Have fun....

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I have this same problem and I followed your instructions. In fact, I followed the instructions on page 1C-52 of the 1995 GM Olds Aurora/Buick Riviera Factory Service Manual.

Their instructions were:

Remove or Disconnect:

1. Sound insulator(s) as required to gain access to actuators.

2. Knee bolster, console, trim as required [I dropped the knee bolster but I didn't do anything with the console or trim as I don't believe they are applicable here.]

3. Electrical connector from actuator.

4. Screws retaining actuator.

5. Actuator.

The problem I have is that the lower heating duct that plugs into the bottom of the Heating and A/C Module (or "blend box," as others call this unit) is between me and the 3 actuators on the driver's side of the blend box.

I have been unable to remove the lower heating duct....it has two small tabs at it end that hold it in to the bottom of the blend box.

Did this heating duct cause you any problems when you changed your center actuator? Was your car an 1995 Olds Aurora? If your car was a later year model, perhaps they changed the location of the lower heating duct?

The way things are, I can see the lower part of the upper actuator, part of the top of the center actuator and I can't see any of the lower actuator. There's no way I can get a screw driver or socket to remove the middle actuator.

Actually what I had in mind was:

1. Measure the voltages on the electrical connection to both the lower and middle cables to verify that the cables, connectors and other electronics is OK.

2. Remove the center actuator and have the motor checked at an alternator repair shop. If the motor is bad, they may be able to rebuild it...assuming parts are available.

3. I would also consider switching the middle and lower actuators to see if the heat returns to the driver's side. If this happened, this would tell me that the original middle actuator is probably bad.

Any advise that you can give me on this matter would be appreciated. My real question is how do you remove the lower heater duct?

Regards,
Al Gershen
Grants Pass, OR
[email protected]

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If others have any suggestion on how to remove the lower heater duct from my 1995 Olds Aurora so that I can have access to the three (3) actuators on the driver's side of the blend box, please post them here and email me directly. Thank you.

Regards,
Al Gershen
Grants Pass, OR

[Sparkee]

I work for an automotive company that suppllies these types of motors. The Aurora is a Delphi system so I do not know the specifics...

Generally these motors (called actuators in the trade) have 5 wires going to them (M+, M-, +5, feedback, gnd). The M+ and M- pins cause the motor to move clockwise / counterclockwise (depending on the polarity of the H-bridge driving them. The +5v, feedback, and gnd set up a pot that provides feedback the HVAC head for the doors position.)

Some of the Dephi actuators skip the M+ abd M- pins for one line that is a tristate control signal (0, 2.5, 5 volts).

The easiest thing to do is to find the pin that is the feedback line and measure if the motor feedback changes when the user keypad requests cold/hot. If it doesn't, see if the M+/M- lines change state.

Getting someone to replace the small motor inside will be difficult as there are custom tooled worm gears attaching it to the internal gears. You're better off replacing the whole actuator.