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  #1  
Old 04-15-2004, 08:05 PM
xavetarx xavetarx is offline
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replacing CV axle shafts

I've never done this on a geo. Any special tools needed? Do I have to take the transaxle apart to get the shaft out of the trans or does it just pull out? Do I have to take the spindle out, or will the shaft just slide out the spindle once it's all apart? Any little details would be cool. I've done this on bigger things.. like trucks, but never anything this small!!
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:39 PM
geozukigti geozukigti is offline
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Actually, it's pretty easy. Before you jack the car up, remove the axle nut (in the middle of the wheel). It requires a 30mm or 32mm (can't remember which one) socket. It's on there REALLY good too. Loosen the lugnuts, jack the car up, and SUPPORT IT WITH JACKSTANDS. Then drain the transmission(drain plug in the very bottom. requires a 3/8" ratchet and small extension). When the car is in the air, remove the wheel. There will be a 14mm nut and bolt holding the ball joint into the wheel hub. Remove that bolt, and loosen the sway bar nut(if you have a sway bar). After the nut is out, slide the pin out, and use a ball joint seperator to pry the ball joint out of the wheel hub. If it doesn't want to come out, try having someone turn the steering wheel while you pry the ball joint out. BE CAREFUL. You don't want to tear the rubber boot on the ball joint. Once the ball joint pops out, pull the wheel hub assembly away from the car, so you can remove the outer axle spline. The inner axle won't seem to want to come out. Without knocking the car off the jacks. give the axle a really firm yank, and it should pop right out. Make sure the output shaft seal is good. Before you put the new axle in, oil the sealing surface, so you don't tear the seal. Put everythign back together, and torque anything down to spec(get a repair manual). There will be a fill hole in the drivers side of the transmission. It is a fairly big bolt. Fill the trans back up with 2.5qt of 75w90 oil.
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:47 PM
pind pind is offline
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Re: replacing CV axle shafts

If I recall correctly, the keeper bolt for the ball joint should be around 35 - 40 ft/lbs, and I know for sure the axle nut is 30 mm, and is torqued to, get this 95 to 195 ft/lbs. that is from the shopkey manual. A number variance like that, when relatign to torque, tends to stick in your head like an icepick.
Enjoy the mechanical experience.
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:50 PM
geozukigti geozukigti is offline
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Lol, yes. And make sure there are no ladies present. Getting that ball joint out has a bad side effect. Makes ya swear like a sailor, cause DAMN! is that thing a bit@# to get out sometimes.
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Old 04-16-2004, 04:13 PM
xavetarx xavetarx is offline
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It's funny you say that about the ball joint separation process. I work part time at a truck yard, and there's a nice trick to separating them. (you guys might not want to do this.. but just thought I'd let you know Get a two pound hammer and give the spindle (right where the ball joint is) a good wack. If you're good, it'll pop out on the first swing. No joke.

Anyway, thank you for all the responces. I look forward to the challenge.
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Old 02-14-2005, 03:42 PM
chembrad chembrad is offline
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I was looking through the threads for transaxle because I am having difficulty getting the transaxle case off so I can get to the clutch & flywheel.

On my '94 metro, to remove the front axles I didn't need a ball joint separator. All I had to do was remove the 14mm nut and bolt holding the suspension arm pin into the ball joint and remove the rear bracket on the supsension bar. Then the suspension bar rotated down with a little pushing thus freeing the rotor and strut assembly. Then I moved this stuff outwards and freed the axle at the wheel.

The axle popped right out with gentle prying at the transaxle case.
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Old 02-14-2005, 03:43 PM
chembrad chembrad is offline
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of course the axle nut had to come off first as well just as geozuki said.
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Old 02-17-2005, 02:52 PM
chembrad chembrad is offline
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Re: Re: replacing CV axle shafts

Quote:
Originally Posted by pind
If I recall correctly, the keeper bolt for the ball joint should be around 35 - 40 ft/lbs, and I know for sure the axle nut is 30 mm, and is torqued to, get this 95 to 195 ft/lbs. that is from the shopkey manual. A number variance like that, when relatign to torque, tends to stick in your head like an icepick.
Enjoy the mechanical experience.
Btw, there are two specs for axle nuts: one is for a standard nut and the other is for a "splined" (ie. bent) nut. The spec for a splined axle nut is 129 ft-lbs.

I have this style nut on both of my metros.
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