91 crx dx oil/rpm help

[zer0depth]

You can skip to the questions section, but the first one gives you detail as to what happend that might have caused this problem.

I just got back from my night class and at about 12 i was going to the store. 2 stop signs later (4 blocks) as i was taking a left from a complete stop i noticed my rpms werent moving but my car was still in motion. My rpms dropped to 0 and my dash got dim, so i pulled over to the side. Turned off my car, tried to start it, it made like a remote control noise like cars thats batteries were dying. Obviously my battery died, but im still unsure why after i got a jump and got it running again they still werent moving. Only thing i did different was turn the heat on and did the wipers once (It was raining)

Questions:
How do I go about fixing my rpm meter, do i need a fuse?
Also is 1030 the best oil to put into it?

[RedRacerCivic]

when your alternator is dying(putting out less voltage), your RPM gauge will not work and also cause all your lights to dim and make your car run slow. Get a digital voltage meter and see if your alternator is pushing 12-14 volts. I bet you that your alternator crapped out on you.

[RedRacerCivic]

yes 10W-30 is the most common and best oil to put in our cars, thats what i have been using for past 4 years.

[crxlvr]

actually, when the car is on the alt should be putting out no less than 13.4volts. and 5w-30 is the best oil for the 4th gen.

[sastanley]

the weight of oil you use can depend on the condition of the motor...you won't go wrong putting in 5w-30, 10w-30, or 10w-40 (basically the same as 10w-30, but can handle warmer climates) - some people will put 20w-50 if they have bad rings, valve seals, etc...cuz it is thicker and will burn less than lighter thinner oils (5w or 10w) - usually by then your engine is on it's way out anyway, and the 20w-50 is just so it doesn't burn so much.

I personally would recommend 5w-30 if the engine has 100k miles or less, and 10w-30/40 if you have over 100k miles.
If your car doesn't burn any oil (rare for most of our 12+ year old cars that still have the original motor), you may consider synthetic oil (like Mobil 1) to increase the engine's life and reduce wear. Hopefully the previous owner took care of it, but if it burns oil, I wouldn't bother wasting the extra $$ on synthetic..

And I agree that prolly your alternator is dead/dying. Get a remanufactured one and drop that baby in there after you use the voltmeter on the battery (with the engine running) to see if you are getting 13.5+ volts...otherwise the battery is just gonna die again.

[zer0depth]

Thank you all, now instead of paying 540 dollars (500 for alternator + 40 for battery) I only have to pay 500 every penny counts.

When I get the alternator my rpm meter will move again? I don't need to buy a cable (an online friend of mine that works at an acura dealership also said it was alternator but he also said I needed a cable)

[1PhatCX]

no you dont need a cable, and 500 for a fucking alternator?!?!!?!?!?!
are u INSANE!?!?!
goto a parts store, a brand new one here is like 150 canadian! holy shit ur getting jacked man

[crxlvr]

dude ill sell you my alternator for 450, what a deal right.

get the 120 high output one for less than 150usd.