Car noob needs performance modification advice.

[WWE-TicK]

I was very much NOT the car person up until I got my 2001 Firebird TransAm. Now I'm totally the wanna be car person. Having a car worth a damn really changes one's perspective on these things. My previous car was a lowly Dodge Shadow. Theres apparently a lot of crap I need to learn ... but I am learning. Slowly, but surely.

Anyway, I'm looking to start throwing some money away on performance mods for my ride. I'm not really looking to race her (at least not yet anyway ... I'm sure the urge to see how well she stacks up against other cars will take me sooner or later though). When I first got her, the thing I really liked was how when I stepped on the gas, my head got thrown back. It was pretty exhilerating. However, I must be used to it by now; I'm not getting the same feeling any more. In a way, it's kind of like a drug . I think my T/A needs more power...

I guess what I'm looking for are mods to improve torque. I'm talking whiplash-inducing torque. The kind where if you're not bracing yourself when I accelerate, you'll need to wear a neckbrace for a month. From what I can gather so far, a turbocharger is probably what I'm looking for. Those things are kind of pricey though; and it's probably a big first step. Based on what I've been reading so far, though, a turbocharger is something I might wanna put in later on down the road. But for now, I should probably put in something a bit more conservative. Just something to wet my appetite a little bit and satisfy my craving for more power (for now anyway ). So, some advice on what to get first would be appreciated.

One mod I'll definately be getting soon, though, is a ram air hood plus airbox. Mainly because it looks so damn cool. But they say it also adds some HP, so thats a plus.

Thanks in advance for any tips and information you can give me.

[fat tom]

ram air should add bout 15hp, if you're looking to spend little and i mean only a little, then spend 180 on a granatelli motorsports MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR, it will increase your airflow by 45%. Maybe not the best mod for torque but sure adds power, 25-35hp approx so for 180 its the cheapest most effective mod out there and many overlook it. But for torque i would just get a power programmer for 350 and increase my hp and torque both by 20hp and 20lb/ft, good luck

[hqdrummer]

dude where can i get one for 180 there 300 + everywhere i look please find me a place where i could get one

[DarkblueTA]

ok, here's a few things you can do.

Since you're going with the WS6 hood and the custom air box, do that. probably see no power gain on the dyno(because you're not pushing air through the hood like you would going down the road...err...I mean 1/4 mile), you might see 1mph increase at the track. P.S. Take the baffles out

I would pass on the MAF. Especially if you are going to eventually turbo or supercharger it. If you get anything for the MAF, just get the maf ends.(but keep your stock ends)

If you have an automatic tranny(A4), get a 3400 stall converter and a set of gears(373s). That will put a nice kick in pants that you want.

Long Tube Headers/exhaust(non-flowmaster) would be next.

I wouldn't do any pulley setups. For the cost of the pullies/belt and the gains are ok, but I'd save that $$ for something better(kinda like the MAF).

Honestly, do your suspension. You can have all the power in the world, but if you can't put it down to the pavement, it doesn't do you any good. First, get Subframe Connectors. Then go right down this list and get Lower Control arms, strut tower brace, panhardrod bar and a poly torque arm bushing. Add a set of struts/shocks(I like my KYB AGX's) and your car will turn like its on rails before the sway bars....not to mention hooking up is so much easier over the stock stuff.

[Robs71Nova]

I agree with DarkBlue. If you wanna really feel a big change switch to a set of 373 gears. Also the programmer would be a very nice touch. I have also HEARD(another one of those Heard things) that with a little head work and a different cam combination you can see very substantial HP and torque gains. ALso im not a very big fan of using it on stock motors, but buyin 75 HP shot nitrous kit for a few hundred bucks will give you that kick in the pants, and wont do any damage only being a 75 shot. A set of headers will also produce a little more power for you.

Rob


PS: Stickers. Put lots and lots of stickers.

[DarkblueTA]

Originally Posted by Robs71Nova

Rob


PS: Stickers. Put lots and lots of stickers.

that's if you want to do the ricer math and ricer 'power'

[rkdo1xa]

Originally Posted by DarkblueTA

If you have an automatic tranny(A4), get a 3400 stall converter and a set of gears(373s). That will put a nice kick in pants that you want.

Long Tube Headers/exhaust(non-flowmaster) would be next.

I wouldn't do any pulley setups. For the cost of the pullies/belt and the gains are ok, but I'd save that $$ for something better(kinda like the MAF).

Not to sound like a total idiot, but since I'm trying to learn something here ....

Based on the other thread regarding torque converters, I understand what getting a TC with a higher stall speed would accomplish. But what would a new set of gears do? And getting new headers? BTW, what is a header?

Also, what do you mean by pulley setups? I know you didn't recommend it, but since you mentioned it it's peaked by curiosity as to what those are and what they do.

Thanks.

[DarkblueTA]

Originally Posted by Robs71Nova

I agree with DarkBlue. If you wanna really feel a big change switch to a set of 373 gears. Also the programmer would be a very nice touch. I have also HEARD(another one of those Heard things) that with a little head work and a different cam combination you can see very substantial HP and torque gains. ALso im not a very big fan of using it on stock motors, but buyin 75 HP shot nitrous kit for a few hundred bucks will give you that kick in the pants, and wont do any damage only being a 75 shot. A set of headers will also produce a little more power for you.

Rob


PS: Stickers. Put lots and lots of stickers.

Stickers

I agree on the heads/cam. I run a supercharger on my car and I'm VERY happy with it. But if you don't have the $$$ or time to put the blower on, heads/cam is the way to go. Also, get your car programmed by someone with LS1Edit or VCMedit from HP Tuners. and someone who knows what they are doing. You'll be very happy with your car then

[DarkblueTA]

Originally Posted by rkdo1xa

Not to sound like a total idiot, but since I'm trying to learn something here ....

Based on the other thread regarding torque converters, I understand what getting a TC with a higher stall speed would accomplish. But what would a new set of gears do? And getting new headers? BTW, what is a header?

Also, what do you mean by pulley setups? I know you didn't recommend it, but since you mentioned it it's peaked by curiosity as to what those are and what they do.

Thanks.

Gears. the higher(Numerically) gear will allow you to accelerate faster. a 3.23 gear will accelerate faster then 2.73s and 3.73s will be faster acceleration then 3.23s. You'll turn more rpms while crusing down the highway, but that's what overdrive is for

Headers..... http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&vid=3&pcid=52
They allow the exhaust gases to flow out of the engine a lot easier then the stock manifolds. Stay away from shorties on an LS1...they stock manifolds are basically a shorty header anyways. I'd go with either the Macs or Pacesetters if you are strapped with $$$ if not, FLP(not a typo...FLP..not SLP).

Power Pullies provide a smaller crank pully and sometimes adjust the alternator pulley to keep your alternator working at the same speed. They tend to free up power because of less rotation mass and the ratio of the new pulley vs old pulley. The only bad thing is they are usually kind of pricey. Its just easier to get a short belt and eliminate your power steering pulley at the track. The belts take 2 minutes to swap and are good for .2seconds at the track

[WWE-TicK]

Originally Posted by DarkblueTA

Gears. the higher(Numerically) gear will allow you to accelerate faster. a 3.23 gear will accelerate faster then 2.73s and 3.73s will be faster acceleration then 3.23s. You'll turn more rpms while crusing down the highway, but that's what overdrive is for

I noticed places also have gear sets with a ratio of 4.10. Is there a point of diminishing returns with respect to how low of a gear ratio you go or would going to the 4.10s be even better than the 3.73s? I read somewhere that stock gear ratios are chosen to maximize fuel efficiency, so I'm guessing the lower gear ratio you pick the more gas you'll guzzle.

[DarkblueTA]

Originally Posted by WWE-TicK

I noticed places also have gear sets with a ratio of 4.10. Is there a point of diminishing returns with respect to how low of a gear ratio you go or would going to the 4.10s be even better than the 3.73s? I read somewhere that stock gear ratios are chosen to maximize fuel efficiency, so I'm guessing the lower gear ratio you pick the more gas you'll guzzle.

most of the time, the lower the gears(410 vs 373) you will use more gas. 373s will use less then 410s. Factory, they usually try to use a decent gear(exceptions of 273s). Factory also uses what's most cost effiencent a lot of the time. If you want an example, look at your suspension bushings(lower control arms/panhardrod bar/etc)

[Squirrel Nuts]

i would say if you plan on dail driving your car dont go above 3.73 gears because of gas consumption

[DarkblueTA]

Originally Posted by Squirrel Nuts

i would say if you plan on dail driving your car dont go above 3.73 gears because of gas consumption

Not unless you have a T56 Transmission(tranny's in the 93+Vettes/Fbodies)