93 Escort clutch switch?

[Hailley]

I have a 1993 Fort Escort Wagon, manual transmission.

I've replaced the ignition cylinder where the key goes,
the battery is new, and I've replaced the starter. Solenoid
is attached to the starter and the starter is fine, so I
don't think it's that.

My problem is the car won't start. Someone suggested
the clutch switch or the clutch safety switch (attached
to the top of the clutch pedal) but it seems to be
either fine or we just couldn't bypass it to check
accurately.

Getting tired of pop-starting by pushing and jumping
in after just two days! Anyone have any ideas?

Please help!!
Thanks!!

[bigrod118]

why did it stop starting. just one day up and stopped. doesnt matter really I guess, but one thing that happened to me, you should try to check the ground wires on your battery, where they touch the battery, and more importantly, where they thouch the car, make sure theres a connection there.

[Hailley]

Dear Bigrod118-

It was about like you said-- I drove to work, used the car to go out
for lunch, and at the end of the day it wouldn't start.

Friends have cleaned battery terminals and the starter has been
replaced (along w/the solenoid) so I'm assuming all wires are
tightened.

Went to AutoZone and they didn't know how to test the
clutch switch where it plugs in.

Have power just fine to the rest of the car-- lights do not
fade when I turn the key, radio and safety chimes all work.

What do you think?

[mightymoose_22]

To check the clutch switch just touch the leads of an ohm meter to each wire on the switch to see if there is continuity while the button is pressed in.

ALso, check your fuses.

When you turn the key to the ON position, before cranking the engine, do you hear the electric fuel pump working?

[Hailley]

Dear Mightymoose,

Thank you for the new info!

Which fuses apply to the clutch switch? I looked in the owners' manual and on the fuse case near
the driver's door and none appeared to be labeled for something related to the clutch switch.

Is the electric fuel pump kind of a clicking or a humming right after you turn the key? I think it's getting gas because I don't have any trouble push starting it (other than with the pushing part..)

Thank you!

[mightymoose_22]

Oh ya... forgot you were push starting...
The fuse would not be for the clutch switch, it would be for the engine/starting circuit. It is simple enough to inspect the fuses and see if one is blown... since the starter was replaced, I am wondering if maybe something got zapped in the process.

So there is no response whatsoever when you turn the key? Not even a clicking? Did you try attaching jumper cables to see if it will turn over?

Do you know how to short the starter? With the key in the ON position and someone stepping on the clutch (and the car in neutral), you can try to turn the starter with a screw driver or something of the sort... I wouldn't attempt this if you aren't familiar with what I am talking about...

New starter... new ignition... everything else working fine... gotta be the clutch swith, bad wire/ground, or loose wire.

Get that clutch switch checked out and we can take it from there.

[Hailley]

Dear Mightymoose-

The battery is grounded and both wires coming off of
the starter are getting power, so we concluded the
power is not being transmitted through the
clutch switch to the starter.

Someone at the auto store
tested the clutch switch and it's supposed
to read less than 5 volts or ohms (I've forgotten)
in one situation, and 5,000 or more in another.
When the meter was attached to the switch
itself, it only read 40.00m, which I took to mean
4,000...

He also reconnected the clutch switch and pushed
the clutch in and tried to start it, so his conclusion
was that either power is not getting across the
switch or the switch is not releasing fully.


I ordered a new
clutch switch. The only other thing we can think
it might be is the switch that the ignition cylinder
turns, meaning there's not power from the ignition
to the starter and the switch is fine.

What do you think?

Oh-- the fuses in the engine compartment and in
the box near the driver's door all look fine.

[mightymoose_22]

Sounds like you will have this resolved soon. Testing the clutch switch should have given a more definitive result... you shouldn't still be guessing. I hope it doesn't cost much for a new one... you don't want to end up changing a bunch of parts until you happen upon the right one.

If you are certain all the wiring is correct, and if you are certain there is no problem with the new starter that was put in, then the clutch switch is a good place to start as it is simple to test and replace if necessary.
You should still try and jump power to the starter to make sure it works. If you don't want to do it on the car, you can remove it fairly easily and test it on a bench... I think some auto parts stores will test it for you too.

You can also use some jumper wires to bypass the clutch switch... then the car should start up without the clutch in... so be sure it is in neutral.

Hope things work out for you.

[Hailley]

Dear Mightymoose-

The starter is good-- the mechanic attached power
to it on a workbench before he installed it.

You're right about the testing of the clutch
switch not seeming definitive.
The good part was that he spent a lot of time
and showed me the diagrams and everything
in the Haines manual so I understood how the
switch worked. Maybe I should call the parts store
again and talk to somebody else.

Do you know how to read the ohm/volt meters?
I guess it depends on which kind you have.

What do you think of it being the
switch that the ignition cylinder
turns in the steering column?

Thank you for your two posts

[mightymoose_22]

Without looking at the car I don't know that I can really say much more.
What I was suggesting with testing the switch is slightly different than what you had done... all I was suggesting was to check for continuity... meaning when the switch is not pressed in the circuit through the switch is not completed, and when the switch is pressed in the circuit is completed. Most multimeters will beep when the circuit is good... so basically when the leads are attached, you should be able to press the switch and hear the multimeter beep each time telling you the switch is working correctly. It doesn't sound as if the test told you what you needed to know, so I hope you actually do need the switch since you have already bought it. Guess you can always return it though =o)
Yes, I suppose there could be a problem with your ignition, but since everything else still works that doesn't seem likely... but could be.

Hmm... I think I misunderstodd your earlier comment... I thought the whole ignition switch was already replaced... if just the cylinder was done, then yes it is worth looking on to the switch behind it. You should be getting your clutch switch very soon though.. may want to rule out the simple stuff before tearing your ignition apart again.
I assume the cylinder was replaced already in an attempt to fix this same problem? Or was it done before this problem began? I have heard of people with heavy key chains wearing out the ignition over time... if you carry 10,000 keys with all kinds of gadgets on the ring you may want to lighten up the load.

The ignition switch should be easy to test with some jumper wires again... disconnect it and short the wires at the plug to bypass the ignition switch, or using a multimeter again, attach one lead to the ignition switch and the other to a ground and check for continuity.

[Hailley]

Thank you, Mightymoose!

I'll let you know how it goes.
p.s. the ignition problem was a totally different one-- I pulled into the grocery parking lot one wintry night to pick up something right quick for a dinner guest and couldn't get the car to turn completely off or back on. iyiyiyi!!

I only have a couple or three keys on the ring I use, exactly because of the reason you said.

Thank you again!! (=

[Hailley]

Dear Mightymoose22--

No luck, not even with a clutch switch from the
parts yard after the guy at the parts store ordered
either a different part than we'd discussed or
the wrong part.

Well, it's still me and my bike! )=

Earlier I was saying I'd replaced the
ignition cylinder--where the key goes to start the
car--but not the switch behind it. The man from
the auto parts store thinks it could also be that.

I just went back and took a look at how to test
the ignition switch-- will try to do that.

But if you have any other ideas...

[mightymoose_22]

At this point, if you are confident that your starter is good and that the wiring is secure and connected correctly, knowing that the xlutch switch is not the problem you should focus on the ignition switch. I initially misunderstood you regarding the switch... I thought you had already replaced it as a result of this starting problem. By process of elimination everything is pointing at your ignition now. I have never actually replaced an ignition switch... not sure how much work is involved.

[Hailley]

Anybody want a thousand-pound teal doorstop?

I've replaced the starter, ignition switch, ignition
cylinder (where the key goes),
battery, and clutch switch on my 1993
Ford Escort wagon and it will not start.



Any suggestions before I call Goodwill?

[FreakScort]

Are you getting spark? I didnt see anything about spark... that could be a prob.