F. A. Q.

[JoeWagon]

Really, if anyone asks a question that is covered in this FAQ, I'm not going to help.

You will find almost every technical question answered already.
-----VFAQ-----1000 Already Answered Questions-----DSMtuners FAQ-----

1. Best BOV
The best blow-off valve is one that doesn't leak. You will find that for a relatively low price ($40) you can pick up a stock 1g BOV which seems to hold boost at 20psi+. If you have a reason to desire a brand-name, more expensive BOV, you have quite a few choices, most of which can be found HERE. For the record, the highest quality valves are made by Tial and SARD. Don't be afraid to search for opinions on a certain BOV on any of the DSM forums in the Site List. Some people seem to think 'best' is in relation to the sound it makes. While you can find the sounds HERE, the sound has nothing to do with performance. One more thing to be said is that the sound is greatly increased if you remove the BOV dump tube (the one back into the intake). It's not recommended, but if you want to see what happens... don't take my word for it. What happens will be richness through shifts from the loss of air previously accounted for by the MAF. Methods to 'vent' without side effects include "running a VPC, standalone, or MAFT" - Recently stated by LandoAWD.

I wanted to get this thing going, so there's the first one. :P

[joemathews]

Great idea for the FAQ, JoeWagon! The following guide should answer people's common questions pertaining to buying their first Eclipse or Talon.

DSM stands for Diamond Star Motors (used back in the Mitsubishi-Chrysler alliance of the late 80s/early 90s). This is why Plymouth Lasers, Eagle Talons, and the more common Mitsubishi Eclipses we talk about in this forum are referred to as DSM's. The Lancer and Galant VR4 are also called DSM's, but that is not something for the Eclipse forum! !

So, you're considering buying your first DSM, a position all DSM owners--on this forum and otherwise--have been in. EVERYONE worries about a few things before deciding to buy a turbo DSM:

1) Models: Elsa Benitez, Tyra Banks, ...they look like NOTHING compared to Eclipses !

-Eclipse RS/GS/Talon ESI= base models of the car, 420a Chrysler engine, front-wheel-drive, may or may not have added options (but you should be able to see for yourself)

-Eclipse GS-T/Talon TSI= models featuring the Mitsubishi 4g63 turbo engine. These cars are also FWD. Slower starts than AWD, but higher top end abilities.

-Eclipse GSX/Talon TSI AWD= models featuring the 4g63 turbo engine, as well as all-wheel-drive. I believe all of these cars have leather, and many if not all have every option. Ungodly fast launches, but alleged drivetrain loss at high speeds in comparison to GS-T's.

2) Reliability: As any mechanic will tell you, performance vehicles will cost more money to maintain than a 130 hp Kia. Any vehicle with a turbocharger was intended to perform well for its class, and the addition of a turbo to GS-Ts, GSXs, etc. adds one more system that can fail, just like any other mechanical feature of the car. The key to a car's reliability is maintenance. If the previous owner has changed the oil late at 4,500 miles every time and has drag raced the car from every stoplight he or she has ever waited at, you probably don't want to buy it unless you're prepared to spend some cash fixing it. Without being abused or neglected, DSM's are equally if not more reliable than any other turbocharged car on the road--even more so than some naturally aspirated ones. So, if you find a creampuff DSM, don't be terrified of reliability just because it wears the Eclipse badge on the back.

3) Crankwalk- There are a number of threads on this site regarding crankwalk (at least 10-15 started by me ). For a detailed explanation and discussion of the common problem with certain models of the 4g63 engine known as "crankwalk," check out this link:
http://www.racingknowledge.org/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=185
Essentially, crankwalk is a cute name for thrust bearing failure. This is a vast oversimplification, but bottom line is, you need a new engine!

Now, don't close the window and run to your nearest Honda dealership just yet...thrust bearing failure can happen to ANY vehicle. And in all honesty, it only happens to DSM's very rarely. If you choose to buy an Eclipse or Talon, and you shop around well enough to find one that looks to be well-maintained, you can minimize your chances of getting crankwalk. WORST case scenario: the used car you buy has crankwalk, and you have to get a 6-bolt engine put into it for $2000 or so. But, in all likelihood your car will be good to go for many years. I would not recommend buying a DSM without being willing to spend this money if your car gets crankwalk. Allow me to stress again that it is very rare, and the pleasures of owning a DSM far outweigh the risk or even cost of crankwalk, in the rare event that it occurs!

4) What to Look For- Just like any other used car, you're going to want to look for a DSM that appears to be well-cared for are in good condition. Check the oil to see if it is filthy...observe the tread left on the tires...see if the interior is in good condition. Often, people who are nit-picky about maintaining their interior also care for the mechanics of the car well. Buying any used car is a gamble, but you can maximize your chances of having a good experience if you get the vehicle inspected by a trusted mechanic. Ideally, you want a family mechanic who will put the car up on a rack for you and examine everything. If this is not available to you (you're buying on ebay, etc.), Pep Boys has a used car inspection service for $30. Take the car to Pep Boys, and they will do a comprehensive inspection, fill out a checklist of interior, exterior, and mechanical ratings, and test drive the car for you. Either way you go, it is far better to spend $150 having several cars inspected than getting stuck needing new brakes, a new clutch, and/or a new engine.

Well, this is my car buying guide for now...if anyone thinks of anything else that would be useful, let me know and I'll add it. JoeWagon, feel free to ask me to post this elsewhere...or heck, just do it yourself, MOD! I know it got kinda long ...but I hope it helps.

[JoeWagon]

I appreciate help like that, so if anyone wants to participate, go ahead and make sure the thread can stay
1. on topic
2. informational
3. have good grammar, thanks!

[ashah000]

What engine can I swap into my GS/RS ?

The only engine that can be directly swaped is the one that is in there right now (the 420a).
You can swap a GS-T engine into the car but it would be extremely difficult and costly.

Here are the costs (from 2gnt)
1. 4G63 turbo engine (stock) $1500
2. transmission (stock GS-T FWD) $500
3. wiring harness for engine $300
4. 4G63 ECU (stock) $300
5. shift linkage $200
6. custom engine mounts $200
7. chassis cross member $100
8. complete exhaust $200
9. intercooler, turbo, related parts $500
10. boost gauge/fuel filter, etc $300
11. Installation $1500
Total - $5600

You can also swap in a 2.4L from a Dodge Stratus/PT cruiser. This is easier than the GS-T swap, however it does require some custom faberication. Also it would be backwards (the header would be on the firewall side)

Mods feel free to edit

[youngmanvr4]

Double clutching:
Basically it is a driving technique that saves the life of your tranny and synchros. The goal is rather then simply downshifting, you take it out of gear, rev the rpms up to get the engine spinning to the correct speed, and then put it into gear. This saves the life of your transmission synchros and eliminates that lurching you get when you downshift. For a detailed explanation check out this web site: http://www.driversedge.com/dblcltch.htm

[JoeWagon]

I'd like to add that most people put their transmissions into gear and THEN rev match, when downshifting. This is not double-clutching. Double-clutching is revving FIRST so that the synchros don't do any work. Keeping the revs up while you let out the clutch, or revving up again, is what prevents lurch.

[duckydsp]

Here is a thread that I have found very helpful with shifting.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...tions+shifting

[BoostedSpyder]

Just wanting to add to the fun, for anyone interested in this free mod:

1) Remove Amber Turn Lens From Headlight Housing and Cleaning

**Tools needed: Socket Set (for bumper), Hairdryer (shrink wrap gun); Flat-Head Screwdriver; Phillips Screwdriver**

A) Remove bumper cover or entire bumper assembly: There is no easy way to do this. Figure it out. This is about headlights, not bumper covers.

EDIT: For the bumper: 2 Bolts in each front wheel well, under the coping. 5 Bolts on top in the front next to the hood latch. 4 Bolts underneath on 2 spars that brace the main bumper part. There that's all you get.

B) Remove Headlights: Remove the 3 bulbs from the housing (hi beam, lo beam, and turn signal). There are 2 bolts behind the housing, 1 on top, and 1 only accessible when you take off your bumper.

C) Unplug Housing: There is a harness at the bottom of the housing, unplug it. This is a seperate step because undoubtably some of you will forget to plug it back in after all of this. At least I did...

D) Split Housing: Use the flat-head to remove the metal clips around the housing. They will jump, so put your hand over them. There is a goo that will become maleable when heated that insulates the housing. Hold housing with turn signal down. Blow heat, 1/2 (yes that close) inch from the surface, on the side that is up, evenly around the crest of the housing. This is where you will begin the split. Heat about half way down the housing, focusing at the top, slowing your movenment. Do this evenly on both sides. *Realize that the goo you are about to do battle with is just that, and it will be stretchy, so try to keep the stretchyness down and DO NOT get it on the reflective part of the inside of the housing. Instead pull it outward.* When it has been very heated, pop off the plastic restraint off the glass and wedge the flat-head in between. Use a twisting motion to insert the screwdriver and pry the housing apart. when there is enough room, use your hands to pull it more. There are more plastic restraints along the way, so be careful. Continue to heat and pull, and eventualy it will give and open like a shell. At this point you way want to clean inside the clear part of the housing. I used 99% alcohol, so no residue would be left behind.

E) Inside the Housing: Remove the outer plastic housing peice. In my case it was black. You may want to clean the reflective part, in my case i had a bulb explode and had residue all over the place. Be very careful of the material used so that it will not score the reflection.

F) Remove the Amber: You will see 2 screws holding it in place. Remove them. Behind the amber plastic is a piece of metal. Leave that in place and replace the screws.

G) Re-Assembly: Replace the inner piece removed in step E. Heat the housing starting at the turn signal side. Heat evenly at close range. When very heated, replace clear cover opposite from removal. It will not go in all the way right away. This is ok. Just continue to heat and apply pressure untill it is even. Replace the metal clips. Continue to heat entire edge of housing to ensure proper seal. Some may choose to put a THIN line of silicone around the edge to back up the existing goop. This is to keep condensation out of the housing.

H) Re-Install Housing: Replace all bolts, bulbs.

I) Plug in Harness: Don't forget this!!!

J) Replace Bumper Cover: It's ok to not like this part...

Isn't it fun to work on your car? Now stand back, turn on your lights and enjoy non-amber turn signals that match your side markers (if you bought them, and if not, now's a good time!!).


So there is my contribution. you all owe me $5. my paypal account: [email protected]. you all better pay up!

[Import2nr99]

that is also very helpful for people who get condensation in the lights (headlihgts and taillights) just thought I'd throw that in. thats exactly how I got the condensation out of mine. good write up vince!

[1stGenRocks]

asaha you said that a 2.4 stratus engine swap would be easier then a 2.0 turbo swap. what about swapping in a 2.4 turbo from a srt-4? that would be mad fast and if i remeber correctly the srt4 engine is the same base engine as the stratus engine
know anywhere that i could get more info on this?

[ashah000]

Here you go sir ...
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?a...5648&mode=full

[1stGenRocks]

i meant swapping a srt engine into a first gen eclipse but thanxs anyway

[duckydsp]

I've been seeing a bunch of questions on fiberglass.
http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bi...;f=32;t=000549