V6 Rear Plugs & Wires - Change ???

[ac68camaro]

Need to change plugs and wires - Do I have to remove Intake plenum to access rear plug ports and wires? Is there an easier way? special tool or combination?

Hesitation in acceleration - chugs under load - works fine around 3m-4m

This is not a fun drive - at the moment. Love the car otherwise
12 years old and still tops 120.

Any advice? Anybody?

[yotatechie04]

What model is the Camry?

[mrb1962]

I have a 91 Camry (V6)and just recently changed the plugs and wires. (just got the car) It sure makes you want to take off the intake plenum to get to the plugs but you dont have to. I was able to get to #1 cylinder from passenger side of car, #3, and #5 from drivers side along the firewall. Was a tight fit for my forearm fer sure. You might want to turn the "3 prong" hoseclamps so they dont nail your arm as it goes in and out of there. I used a combination of short and long ratchet extensions as well as a flex joint...just be patient with em.......u might want to use a piece of fuel line/hose to start the new plugs in their holes so u dont crossthread anything.....some recommend anti seize compound on the threads as well.....i would say "have fun" but its not all that fun, heh.

[Brian R.]

"some recommend anti seize compound on the threads as well"

Definitely put anti-seize compoud on any steel threads (including spark plugs) being tightened into an aluminum hole. If you don't, eventually, there will be no more aluminum threads and you will have an expensive repair to perform.

[red-in-la]

ac68camero, see all my posts under "hesitation".

ugly 9 day quest for the truth....

Regards

[yotatechie04]

I just got done researching the older model Camry and come to find out someone had already beaten me to the reply. But yeah, I totally agree with everything that's been said. I REALLY can't emphasize enough on how much you should use anti-seize compound on the threads. It's very important.

[mrb1962]

ok, so whats the deal with aluminum threads and steel plugs? i never had any probs with em in the past............is it an incompatible metal kinda thing where a dielectric would help ?

[ac68camaro]

There is a slight difference in 91 - 92 - I'm going to tackle this as soon as my wires come in. I'm hoping there is room to get the extensions in. If not - Oh well - I've never had the intake off and it could probably use some new gaskets. The throttle body could probably use a teardown and rebuild and maybe I'll put custom intake on while I've got everything apart!

Problem is, this is my daily driver - Can't have it tore apart when it's time to get to work -

buying a van soon though, so maybe I'll put it off till I have the second vehicle.

Anti-seize compound always!

[ac68camaro]

red-in-la,

Read your "hesitation" listings - how much was final price for distributor?
I'll try the wires and if that does no good distributor next. Depending on price/availability I may do distributor first.

will keep you posted when I solve problem.

I changed fuel filter and had a "little" leak but resolved that and same problem.

[Brian R.]

Originally Posted by mrb1962

ok, so whats the deal with aluminum threads and steel plugs? i never had any probs with em in the past............is it an incompatible metal kinda thing where a dielectric would help ?

There is a large difference in thermal expansion coefficients between steel and aluminum. Aluminun expands and contracts with heat alot more than steel or iron. Repeated heating/cooling cycles causes them to fuse together. The biggest problem in this is that aluminum is soft and will be the first to give. Unfortunately, it is the threads in the head that gets ruined, not the spark plug.

Since you haven't had a problem up to this point, you have probably had enough residual anti-seize compound on the threads from the factory (or the previous mechanic) to save you. Either that or you change your plugs often enough to keep this from being a major problem.

Normal plug change intervals will eventually kill your head threads without anti-seize. The sign of a problem is when you pull your plugs and the plug threads have white metal in them. Doesn't have to be alot to weaken the threads in the head significantly. They are weak to begin with. Eventually, you torque your plugs and they keep turning.

For that matter, every bolt that goes into iron should have oil on the threads also, but for a different reason. The torque specifications are meant to be applied to lubricated (not dry) threads. If you don't oil the threads, you are undertorqueing the bolts.

[ac68camaro]

I just came back to say that with a new set of plugs and wires my car is once again responding the way it was made to. Big sigh of relief when I planked the peddle and got full, quick response through all gears. I just couldn't take my foot out of it until 130mph!

I found that by laying on top of the motor with my head between the wipers I could access the rear plugs and wires without too much trouble. It was a little fun to reroute the new wires but at last - success.

[Brian R.]

Good job

[yotatechie04]

Good, I'm glad to hear that you've got it done...and amazed to hear that you actually hit 130! Very good job. Also glad to hear that you've got the original "kick" back that it had before.