EGR valve

[George G.]

Does anyone know if the EGR valve for a 99 Rodeo is the same on a Honda Passport? I would think it is. I'm asking cause I know a guy that works at a Honda dealer and can get me one at cost+10. That little thing is expensive. By the way, the CEL is on, took it to Autozone and pulled up the code and it came back "insufficient exhaust gas flow..." something like that. Thanks.

[amigo-2k]

99% of the time you can just clean it and it is fixed. And yes, passort =rodeo.

see my FAQ link below:

[Davejb]

Definetly try cleaning it first, hell of a lot cheaper than a new one. I got the same MIL on my wife's '00, 20 minutes of cleaning and problem solved, it's a common problem with these trucks.

[George G.]

I'll try it. I'm a bit nervouse about trying amigo's FAQ method but I think I'll give it a try too. thanks.

[rodeo02]

George- like Ryan and Dave say, it's REAL rare for the EGR valve itself to be bad. They are just a heavy duty 12v solenoid with a wedge/dome shaped gate at the tip for sealing. The tube that goes from the EGR base to inside the intake is the one that plugs with carbon. This line should pull a strong vacuum with the valve removed & the truck idling. A good spray out with carb cleaner should fix it for you.
G/luck
Joel

[George G.]

Got her all cleaned up and back together. Wasn't that bad....when amigo02 mention flames from the large hole that kinda made me nervous. Went through a can of carb cleaner and a new gasket and che CEL is gone. Now I can get it inspected. thanks again guys.

[rheteric]

I cleaned my EGR using the suggested spray method, and my problems have worsened. I don't have a code reader, but my mechanic read the code previously and it was the EGR low-flow message. I went a number of uneventful weeks without cleaning it and finally got around to it. After cleaning and reassembling the EGR valve, the engine is idling very rough (and hesitating off the line).... as if the valve was still removed. I read somewhere that the pintle is supposed to move freely within the valve, but can become stuck within the housing. I am assuming that this is the "black" torx or allen-head screw-type thing over the small opening in the EGR valve assembly. Indeed, this was not moving freely, so I sprayed it with carb cleaner, gave it some pressure with a screw driver, and it broke free.... Oooh. I am not sure if this ruined it, but like I said, with the EGR replaced the idle is rough and the CEL is still on. (I did disconnect the battery to reset the computer.) I think my next option is to get a code reader and see if it's still the same message. I can only assume, though, that the flow is good since the post-EGR intake vacuum tube should be opened up, and the pintle should be open as well. I didn't give the pintle a ton of pressure, but it did pop in a little unexpectedly. I don't know exactly how these EGRs operate, but I am speculating that the EGR is closed when at idle (since when removed the engine ran really rough) and am also speculating that since the recirculation is after the MAF that perhaps this "leakage" was causing the idle to be too lean, perhaps like the cracked intake gasket issue. I am hoping that someone can reassure me that these EGRs are somewhat robust, and that the pintle was supposed to pop in. If not then I might be forking out some bucks to replace it. My only other concern is that there is a bad connection to one of the solenoids, or the MAF is suddenly malfunctioning. Please help!

Additional (perhaps useful) info:
I sprayed carb cleaner into the intake though the throttle body to clean around the vauum tube exit.
I cleaned the PCV valve and sprayed that hose.
I sprayed some carb cleaner down the large exhaust inlet of the EGR mount.

[rheteric]

False alarm my friends!!!!!!!
I drove the car to work and back today hoping that the pintle would free up or somehow things would miraculously remedy themselves. Well, that was of no luck. So on the way home I picked up some Torx bits and went to town on the EGR again. I removed the assembly and cleaned the gasket and as much of the insides as I could without any disassembly. I used the torx bit on the pintle turning it each direction, only to realize that it wasn't a "screw" but rather just freely spinning around. Fortunately this must have loosened things up a bit more and the pintle popped back out. YIPPIE!!! I reset the computer and took the Rodeo for a brief spin around the neighborhood and the CEL is OFF!!! I'd like to share an observation with anyone inquiring or thinking of doing this procedure themselves:
The pintle is spring-loaded (not free moving) and it's default position is "closed". My understanding is that the pintle can get stuck in either the open or the closed position. I found that a little persuasion is necessary to free it up. Hope this helps someone.

[98RodeoNH]

This thread ended 1.5 years of agony and frustration. The intake tube under the manifold cover was an inch deep with carbon. A little cleaning, and a little compressed air, and NO MORE LIGHT! Thanx a million ...........