At Tt

[B00stCreep]

I got my 3000gt n/a but i wanna do a TT conversion. I don't have all the money right now so I'm in the planning stages. I've been reading alot. I have a Automatic and wanted to know if it would be able to handle the extra hp? Would it be better than a manuel casue of the gearing? Hotshot did u do a TT conversion and you have a auto right? How does it work out for u? Do you have a LSD and what's the traction like? I know i could just save for a VR-4, but that wouldn't be any fun plus it'll be a little more sleeper like with TT in a base model. Thanks for any info. Sry in this has been asked b4.

[YogsVR4]

You might want to send him a PM.

[Teazrsnow]

i've never experienced a tt AT but i've heard the torque is incredible

[B00stCreep]

Originally Posted by YogsVR4

You might want to send him a PM.

I probably should, but I'm just looking for as much info as I can get from anyone that can offer it.

[Hotshot8792]

ok i'm here, you are looking at the master, 2nd person to do a tt conversion to an atx, and the longest one to still be around (1st one got wrecked

anyways, first question you asked, yes that auto can handle it, and quite well i might say, definitely add a transmission cooler to the list, and thats the only mod i have for the transmission, although i do have a shift kit, just not installed, remember, we have the same tranny as the turbo eclipses and many of them are running 10 second and quicker 1/4 mile times

I, personally, and a few of my VR-4 buddies who live near me will tell you that if your going to go FWD TT, the ATX is much better and for the reason being the longer gears will #1, get you off the line way quicker than a FWD MTX due to traction, and #2, the FWD MTX gearing up top is not all that great, which explains when J.B. ran his 11 second 1/4 mile, he only trapped 113 being FWD, vs. AWD cars who should trap lower, still trap 118+ when running those kinds of times.

no you dont need an LSD on an auto, not a this point, and this is why. The reason manual's need it is because their transmission can explode like a grenade without it. When you launch a manual, you put a sudden shock to the drivetrain which creates stress on the stock differential, therefore you need a stronger one to withhold the power. An an auto, you load your torque converter when you launch, therefore you aren't producing the tranny bustin stress when you let loose.

When making these cars a TT, especially the auto, there were a few parts on the VR-4 not made to fit around our cars, therefore there will be some fabrication involved. I know for me, had to cut a whole for the drivers side intercooler, had to make the front turbo oil return line longer, and even then, it rubbed up against the bracket that keeps the tranny from spinning with the engine, so i had to get out a bench grinder and grind that down. The passenger side intercooler needs to be modified so that the pipes can go around the auto tranny since the auto tranny is bigger than the manual tranny. The rear IC piping needs to be modified to fit around the intake plenum, and thats all i can remember off the top of my head.

The car runs strong, you can still break the wheels loose in 1st gear, but between ECS, spring blockers, and good tires, i can keep my wheels planted on the pavement making 1st gear dangerous with my torque. I have boosted 12 psi before and its a "piss in your pants" kind of power on 10:1 pistons, but beware of knock. I have just lately created my own alky injection kit so that i can run 13 psi safely on my 10:1 pistons, hopefully i'll have all the kinks worked out in a couple of weeks.

Right now, these are my performance mods: Blitz SBC-ID boost controller, 1st gen dsm bov, 3sx aluminum pulley, accel wires, ported turbos and O2 housings, gutted rear precat, no main car and no front precat, stillen downpipe, 3 inch custom dual catback with dual glasspacks, LS6 MAFT w/ K&N filter, CO2 intercooler sprayers, Water/alcohol injection, and i think thats it besides minor weight reduction

take those mods at the time when i raced my buddie's VR-4 with open element intake and gutted precats @ 12 psi, i still had my catalytic converter on and my stillen downpipe and i was running approx 7.5 psi, pulled 4 cars on him from 50-120 and still pullin away if that gives you any idea on top end power.

[B00stCreep]

How much did the conversion cost? I've seen estimates at around 3300 but that's with a LSD and if I don't need it that should cut down the price a little. Wheres the best place to look for all the parts I need...How many people take all the stuff I'll need off their VR-4? I guess if they wreck it. What kind of boost do you safely run most of the time? Good luck with the alky injection.

[talskinyguy]

Ill have an almost complete TT conversion for sale in a couple weeks.

[Hotshot8792]

Originally Posted by B00stCreep

How much did the conversion cost? I've seen estimates at around 3300 but that's with a LSD and if I don't need it that should cut down the price a little. Wheres the best place to look for all the parts I need...How many people take all the stuff I'll need off their VR-4? I guess if they wreck it. What kind of boost do you safely run most of the time? Good luck with the alky injection.

it probably ran me around 2 grand, but it took a lot of time and effort to complete it. I'd say about 5 months worth of collecting all the parts needed, then when you start, there are just tons of nuts and bolts you'll have to buy, and gaskets and all sorts of stuff. I did have to pay a welder shop to do some fabrication for me because it was well out of my reach on some of the fabrication. As for boost level, i generally drive around between 8-10 psi safely, dont know how well it would handle on a hott day, but thats what IC sprayers are for. I have ran 12.5 psi before on a cold night without knock, but i wouldnt recommend running that high unless its a very cold night or you have some sort of injection. I'm hoping maybe to get up to 14 psi on alky injection.