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  #1  
Old 03-13-2004, 05:14 PM
Drewbu Drewbu is offline
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Rotors replacment

Hi
I have 98 chevy blazer 2X4
and i need some help on replacing rotors on front and rear ...
my manuals tend to skip this step ... and i can't figure out how to even get the old one of... i got caliper and asembly of already..
thx...
would apritiate help asp, since car is siting on blocks till i get it done ...
and i'm stuck driving my mom's car..
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Old 03-13-2004, 09:19 PM
MGoBlue102 MGoBlue102 is offline
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Re: Rotors replacment

Mine is a 96 but it shouldnt be any different, they simply slip over the studs. If it is tight, its probably never been removed and has rusted, spray it down with brake cleaner and maybe tap the center with a rubber hammer to shake the rust loose. It should just slide right off the studs.
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Old 03-14-2004, 03:06 AM
Drewbu Drewbu is offline
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Re: Rotors replacment

thank you
i'll try it tomorow
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Old 03-15-2004, 04:04 AM
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airforceone airforceone is offline
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If it's a 4x2 you'll need to remove the nut in hub, as the hub is pressed into the rotor.
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Old 03-15-2004, 07:16 AM
amac209 amac209 is offline
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Re: Rotors replacment

i've only delt with 4X4's so i'm not too sure what you need to do with the front but on the rears all you need to do is remove the rear caliper brackets they're on there pretty tight(18mm) if you have a good braker bar and a short socket it should fit just take off the 2 caliper bracket bolts and the rotors will slide off. you might need to push the caliper pistons back in to get the everything back together big channel lock pliers or a c-clamp will work. good luck!!!!
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Old 03-27-2004, 05:06 PM
price111 price111 is offline
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Re: Rotors replacment

I had to replace my front rotors last year and it was a PITA. The manual, and everyone else, says they just "slide" off after caliper removal. Mine did NOT. I had to remove the hub unit and press them off. It appears the dealer may have used some sort of adhesive to put them back on when the entire front end was re-built under warranty. Needless to say, I didn't use anything when I put them back on.

As soon as I touched them with the press, they popped right off. Like they were glued.

Hope this helps. Also, I had to buy a $100+ hub puller to do this job.
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Old 04-27-2004, 01:06 AM
Rowlin Rowlin is offline
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Re: Rotors replacment

the rotor is the hub its an assembly. it is machined that way. remove the dust cap and u will see a crown nut with a cotter pin. remove the pin and nut and jiggly the rotor till the outer bearing falls out. put the crown nut back on by a few thread and then slide the rotor offthe nut should catch the inner bearing and with a jerk u can remove it as well at the rear grease seal u will need to clean and repack the bearing as well a replace the grease seal with new ones on the new rotors. the seal just taps in the back of the rotor. make sure u put the inner bearing in first. just put al the parts back in the new rotor as they were in the old one( most new hub abd rotor ass come with new races for the bearing) when tighining the crown nut don't be afrad to put some muscle into it and replace the cotter pin with a new one.

the rear one can be a pain. if i remember correct the e brake is a internal drun like set up on the rotor and when apart should be inspected very carefully after the removal of the caliper adn brackets if there. they should tap off but if they don't just whale on the cause the internal brake has formed a rust rudge and needs to be broken. if that doesn't work u have to try and un adjust them from the acess hole on the insde of the backing plate.

Good Luck
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