'96 rodeo starter problems/changeout

[slcrodeo]

I have a rodeo that clicks when attempting to crank. Sometimes it catches and cranks and often it just clicks. I took down the starter once but was unable to get it out from between the block and exhaust manifold. Does any one know how these come out? The manual (haynes) says that you have to take down the exhaust system but the bolts WILL NOT come loose(used 2ft breaker bar) I'm afraid that if I use the IR2131 I'll break bolts and studs. Talked to the dealer shop supervisor who said that they often break these bolts which runs up the labor charges, which are high enough! Any Help greatly appreciated.

[rodeo02]

You almost always have to torch or cut these bolts off to drop the "Y" pipe. Very common on many vehicles for starter R/R. You will need new hardware for that exhaust connection. Very cheap at any exhaust shop.
G/luck
Joel

[amigo-2k]

"You have to drop the LH exhaust pipe for access. If there's much rust on the bolts, it gets real fun real fast. "


http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...ev=#Post452034

[Cat Fuzz]

Try to find a product called PB Blaster. It's like WD-40 but 100 times better. Spray that stuff on your exhaust bolts and let it soak for awhile then douche them again. If they still break then there was no saving them.

[geg]

Isuzu uses swedged nuts on the studs that hold the exhaust to the header. I used a lot of liquid wrench and a long breaker to get mine off. I had to walk the nuts back and forth to get them loose. The threads from the swedged end of the nut down on the studs were stripped in the process. I still had enough threads with new nuts to make it hold when I put it back together. I put a lot of torque on the nuts thinking I would break the studs and then end up taking the manifold off to put on new studs. Guess I was lucky. Putting swedged nuts on in the first place is not a cool trick.

[heritage72]

I had to replace the starter on my 96 Rodeo a couple of months ago, and after several hours of work trying to remove the bolts on the exhaust pipe with no luck, I read a post about taking the starter apart and re-assembling above the exhaust pipe. I am very happy to say that within 20 minutes I had the new starter in and working perfectly. As long as you are careful with the new starter, it is the way to go.

[95.5 Rodeo]

Joel is right. Cutting or torching is the answer. I tried the PB Blaster (good stuff) and was only able to remove one of the studs.

Here is my story from another forum, I had the clicking problem as well:

The rebuilt starter solved the problem. I bought it on Ebay for $95.00 delivered, they wanted $175.00 for a starter at the local parts store. It took me some time to replace it, the main problem was removing the driver's side front exhaust pipe where it connects to the pre catalytic converter. There are 2 pressed in bolts where the exhaust pipe meets the PCC and I ended up cutting one of them off and beating it out with a hammer. They were replaced later with "regular" bolts. This turned out to work as I could not get enough clearance by removing the nuts and pulling on the exhaust pipe. The starter wiring was removed and installed by "feel" as they were not easily seen. The only help seeing the wiring was looking through the wheel well with the rubber flap pulled aside. Anyway, it starts every time now and I'm happy again.

Dale