high oil consumption, CEL, hard start

[fastrails]

I am glad I stumbled on to this site, there is a wealth of information here. Its good to know that I am not alone and there are other people have the same problems with their Rodeos. Even though I took really good care of the car, I am having the following problems below. Bought it brand new and original owner.

What's going on with my 1998 V6 WD Rodeo, with 100,455 miles:
1. Consumes about 1qt of oil per 1000miles.
2. Check Engine light just came on after I check the fuses(was able to get it to go off after removing negative from the battery for about 5mins. However it came on after about 15miles, unhooked it fromt he battery again. Lets hope it stays off, I also made sure the gas cap is on tight).
3. It is really hard to start, usually takes 3-5 starts.(FYI, had a problem with this car starting in the past where I would take it for long drive, turn off the car and go do what ever. Come back won't start, but wait about 5-7mins after the initial start it will. The fix was, the Idle Speed Controller had to be replaced($165).

Anyway I've been reading this forum for the last couple of days, and going to try to clean the EGR valve as suggested and PCM. I read where there are two holes in EGR valve, need to plug the big one and spray the small one with carb cleaner. What should I use to plug the big hole, would a damp towel be okay? If not, what should I use? Don't want flames shooting out. Thanks in advance everyone.

[amigo-2k]

Good to hear you have been doing some reading!

The hard starts could be due to:

1. Bad battery ground (clean up where it grounds to the frame)
2. bad battery
3. clogged fuel filter (change it every 30k)
3. clogged fuel injectors (add chevron techron concentrate for your next couple of tanks or take it in for a professional cleaning for about 100 bucks (might be worth it if you have never add gas additive before).
4. If there is an autozone in your area take your truck in for a free code reading (sounds like you have a real problem since the CEL keeps popping up.
5. if the plugs have more then 50k swap them out.
6. Check for a leaky intake gasket (that code may suggest that).
7. Clean out the tube (large hole in the EGR) that goes from the EGR to the exhaust manifold (Cold engine, remove EGR, Spray about a 1/4 can of carb cleaner, let it sit for about 15 minutes, reinstall the EGR, fire it back up, take it for a 10 drive. Then the next day or after it is cool, follow the procedure in the FAQ in below.


As for oil, cleaning the EGR should help some, but it sounds like your rings are pretty gummed up. A few rounds of Sea Foam may help to clean them up.

Good Luck
-Ryan

[fastrails]

Thanks for the reply amigo-2k. I will do what you suggest. Also on the EGR, I need to clean the big hole not the little one correct? Thanks again.

V

Originally Posted by amigo-2k

Good to hear you have been doing some reading!

The hard starts could be due to:

1. Bad battery ground (clean up where it grounds to the frame)
2. bad battery
3. clogged fuel filter (change it every 30k)
3. clogged fuel injectors (add chevron techron concentrate for your next couple of tanks or take it in for a professional cleaning for about 100 bucks (might be worth it if you have never add gas additive before).
4. If there is an autozone in your area take your truck in for a free code reading (sounds like you have a real problem since the CEL keeps popping up.
5. if the plugs have more then 50k swap them out.
6. Check for a leaky intake gasket (that code may suggest that).
7. Clean out the tube (large hole in the EGR) that goes from the EGR to the exhaust manifold (Cold engine, remove EGR, Spray about a 1/4 can of carb cleaner, let it sit for about 15 minutes, reinstall the EGR, fire it back up, take it for a 10 drive. Then the next day or after it is cool, follow the procedure in the FAQ in below.


As for oil, cleaning the EGR should help some, but it sounds like your rings are pretty gummed up. A few rounds of Sea Foam may help to clean them up.

Good Luck
-Ryan

[amigo-2k]

Nope you should clean both holes. The little hole in the EGR wraps around into the trottle body. If you take off your intake, open up the butterfly in the TB you will see a small hole just inside the trottle body. If you plug the big hole you can spray carb cleaner into the little hole, without risking a fire. The purpose of the little hole/tube is to recirculate exhaust gases back into the intake and to also cool cylinder #1 (manual states that if you here pinging under accleration it may be due to that tube being clogged with carbon, and cly #1 is getting to hot.)

The main reason you should think about cleaning the larger tube too in the EGR is because of your oil consumption. But make DANG sure the engine is not Hot or running when you clean out the large tube.
Cheers!

-Ryan
another good post with photos:

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...?threadid=3203

[rodeo02]

fastrails- I realize this is not the safest method, but what I've done with this type of setup is- clean the EGR plumbing on a cold engine right after startup. Plug the port leading to the exhaust manifold with your finger as best you can & carfully spray the carb cleaner into the vacuum port with the included plastic straw. You should have heavy vacuum on that port at idle if the tube is clean. The exhaust pressure on the other port is minimal. The only way I can think of to plug the pressure port is stuff a chunk of rag in there or use a cork or rubber stopper. Just make sure you can dig it back out!
G/luck
Joel

[fastrails]

Okay I know I've dragged this topic a lot futher then it should go, but I am just a little concern about cleaning out the EGR. So here is a dumb question, couldn't I just spray both holes while the engine is off?

[amigo-2k]

Well that would work for the large hole which the tube leads down to the exhaust manifold. But the smaller hole tube I think goes down and then up into the intake header.

I cleaned my EGR the first time (35k) on a dead cold engine spraying some carb cleaner (1/8 can) down each hole and down the hole that is directly behind the trottle body butterfly. Then I waited about 15 minutes, re-installed the EGR and then took it for a spin.

But in your case, since you have 100k and have not cleaned the EGR/tubing; your best bet is to give a a real good cleaning.

I'm going to be cleaning my EGR year now. I only cost a buck for the carb cleaner and 1 hour of my time.

The dealer will chage you about 100 bucks, but you will know that it was done right for sure.

Give it a shot!

here is a post I started when I cleaned my EGR:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...ev=#Post365515

[fastrails]

Just want to thank amigo-2k and rodeo02 for helping me out with my Rodeo problems. I did exactly what you two suggested on this thread, and it looks like all my problems went away(at least for now). I will do this every six months, didn't take too much of my time. One that troubles me, why doesn't the oil gauge come on when the oil level was low? Once again thanks again you two.

[fastrails]

DAMN, CEL just came on this morning. Did good all day yesterday. Put in about a 100miles. Engine runs really smooth too, even today. Can't seem to get CEL to go away. Went to the Autozone in San Mateo, CA for a CEL code read out, said they don't do that anymore. Went to Midas, the those guys wanted $100. I was going to give them the figure, but why bother. Beside the CEL, everything seems to be okay.

[amigo-2k]

Might be worth the money to just purchase a code reader. They cost under a 100 bucks now. I'm thinking about doing it to. My CEL Flashed at my once this weekend for a second when I was heavy on the gas.

You may want to replace your gas cap?


code reader for 40 bucks on sale now:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46030

Gift offer # 35223-0RAF (presumably for the attache)

Coupon # 341-886-857 (for the free shipping/$5.00 off $40.00)

[ibew595]

100k on the clock? could be time to replace O2 sensors. Check the manual. Replace at 100kmi.

[amigo-2k]

Well there are 4 O2 sensors and at 80 bucks a pop, I don't think that is where you would start. If you have an O2 sensor on the way out it would toss a code to let you know which one to replace.

-Ryan

[fastrails]

I went out and bought a code reader, came back with a 1404. Guess I didn't clean out the EGR unit well. Saw a brand new OEM EGR w/gasket and won the auction(only $35 shipped). I'll have it next week, and hopefully get rid of that CEL! Thanks for all suggestions.