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#1
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guys who have worked on their eclipse tranny, have a question
I have recently tightened up my 2 36 mm bolts on the tranny end case, with no problems so far. However when I put in my clutch in 5 months ago I noticed a small leak around the front of the gearbox side (bellhousing side). Now the leak is getting much worse. My question- How do I split the case apart there? Is there some sort of C-clip that sits on the shaft? I would expect to have to seperate the bell housing from it, but I'm just not sure how to split the case once I remove all the bolts. I think it is the 5M22 (does that sound right?) Thanks for your help.
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#2
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Did you over-torque them?
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For Sale 98 Eclipse GS, 5 spd |
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#3
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I don't think so because it was leaking before I torqued down the end nuts. I guess it could be possible though.
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#4
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Re: guys who have worked on their eclipse tranny, have a question
It all depends on where that leak is coming from. If its tranny fluid there are 3 places it can be coming from on the belhousing side. The input shaft seal, the output shaft seal, and the drivers side axel seal. The drivers side axle seal is the easiest to change. 15 minute job. The output shaft seal (if its AWD) actually can be changed with the tranny still in the car, I jus did mine last week. The input shaft seal however requires complete dissambly of the tranny. Takes me about 3 hours total once the tranny is out.
Drop the DP, then the transfer case if its AWD, ad take a look around.
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Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
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#5
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Alright thanks. Unfortunatly I only have FWD so I won't have to worry about that one extra seal! Will the case split apart at the input shaft side, kind of like the rear side did when I tightened up those 2 nuts?
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#6
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Re: guys who have worked on their eclipse tranny, have a question
Yes. Heres a quick description for AWD, so the VC stuff etc wont apply. You'll have to figure out what doesnt apply when you open your up, if you even need to. Tranny has to be out of teh car. Remove the end cover like you already did. Pull the two end nuts and everything under them. You need to punch out the roll pin holding the 5th gear shift fork to the rail. Slide it into 5th, then slect another gear at the same time to hold the shafts while you remove/tighten the end nuts. remove the snao ring and VC, dotn lose the little ball that holds the outptu shaft in. Remove the shift detent bolt/spring/ball, there are 3 sets. Remove the reverse light switch. Remove the next case piece. Remove the center diff. Pull the bolt that hodls teh rever gear selector (not necessary, but its easier to reinstall witht eh bolt out, and the rain in the bellhousing). Youre on your own for pulling the shift rail assembly, too much to describe here. ITs easy, but you have to figure it out yerself.
Thats from memory, forgive me if I miseed anything.
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Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
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#7
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Thank you!
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