edelbrock turbo kit

[4drcivic]

does anybody have any more info on this turbo kit, as far as 1/4 times, install problems, extra parts probley needed... etc...etc.. ? thanks alot

[MastaCivic]

If your talking about the d16y8 Edelbrock kit, the only thing I can tell you about them is that they are a waste of money. If you want more power, buy a jdm b18c gsr. The turbo kit and the engine cost about the same and a jdm b18c gsr motor actually has more stock hp than the turbo kit will give a d16y8.

jdm gsr= 180hp
Supposed hp d16y8 with edelbrock turbo kit=170ish hp.

[Miataracer]

Link to Edelbrock turbo page

there ya go, read about it for yourself

[CivicEXRider]

Originally Posted by MastaCivic

If your talking about the d16y8 Edelbrock kit, the only thing I can tell you about them is that they are a waste of money. If you want more power, buy a jdm b18c gsr. The turbo kit and the engine cost about the same and a jdm b18c gsr motor actually has more stock hp than the turbo kit will give a d16y8.

jdm gsr= 180hp
Supposed hp d16y8 with edelbrock turbo kit=170ish hp.

You forgot JDM GSR= 180HP/132torque at the CRANK.
It's actually 176WHP/147 torque with the kit. So an easy 195-200 Crank HP. And you can turn that up to 200whp/170 torque with a MBC for about 50 bucks. I dyno'd untuned at 9-10psi with 183whp/180 torque running way rich above 5000 rpm. Killed the HP peak number.

Here's some real world experience. My buddy has a 1997 Civic coupe with GSR swap, I had the stock Edelbrock kit with 1998 coupes stock D16Y8 motor. Out of 30 runs he never even came close to keeping up. Every gear pulled, I pulled with me in 4th and him dropping to 3rd. Actually had to stop at one point to show him I had no N20 hooked up.

Now it's not even a contest. I turned the boost up to 14 psi with a built head for a 13.88/104 run at the track on 205/40/17 ventus tires with chrome rims. 2.4 60' time.. IE no traction until 3rd. Would have been an easy high 12 second pass with slicks.

In the process now of building a D block for 20 psi. The built D block will be the same cost as a GSR motor.
If you build a GSR and turbo that then you'd get more power also get a bigger price tag. Oh, and hope that GSR doesn't give out like my buddies did. His timing belt jumped, bent some valves and messed up the cam runners. New GSR head cost as much as my built SOHC with crower stage 2 turbo cam, ferrara SS valves, crower springs/retainers/camgear and port and polish job.

[4drcivic]

thanks civicexrider. I was asking "about" the kit, not if i should "get" the kit. anyway, civicexrider- did you ever run the kit with stock boost at the track? if not did you feel a big difference from the stock 6-7 psi of boost compared to 9-10? last question: whould i be ok using a mbc and running 9-10 psi daily driver with stock internals with about 107,000 on the y8 motor?

[turbo2nr]

i would recomend boostin 10psi to jus drive around booost 10psi when u wana kick sum1 ass othawise i leave it at 6psi for daily driving, it dones make sense to stress you motor for no reason, for 1\4mile time im gussig low14's if you can drive
1

[4drcivic]

i called edelbrock to get some more info on this kit, and they said there was no way to turn up boost with the stock kit. and they do not recomend running more then 7psi of boost. so go figure, i guess to cover there butts. guess i'll have to do some experimenting. also would it be possible to run the vacumm line from wastegate through a mbc then back to whereever the line goes? is this how you would turn up boost with that? any thoughts?

[CivicEXRider]

Any manual/electronic boost controller will work if it's made for an actuator type system. Last run I did at the track was 13.88 at 104 with 205/40/17 ventus street tires on chrome rims and a lovely 2.4 60' time. Crap tires and no traction until 3rd. Easy 12's with slicks but I was running 14psi. Stock should put you mid 14's. I have the apexi AVC-R and turned the boost down 50 percent for first then 10 percent in second and it still like to spin the tires way to much.

You can run 10psi daily but I wouldn't recommend it unless you put in some ARP head studs. D16's have a bad habit of lifting the head under boost with the stock bolts. It's a big safe factor for 100 bucks worth of parts. Really easy to replace the bolts if you haven't blown the gasket yet.

[4drcivic]

ok thanks again. I was looking into replacing the headgasket anyway due to milage. i was told it would be a good idea to get a thinner headgasket to lower compression, but not sure this will help. any comments?

[unusualcivic]

get a THICKER headgasket to lower compression.

[CivicEXRider]

No need to go thicker or thinner with the Edelbrock kit. Use the standard 75mm bore/.030 thickness. That should keep your running safely at 10psi. If you do the rods/pistons, you could bump it up to 14psi with not problems with the kit.