Explorer not starting

[inspector]

I have a 1994 explorer that will not start. The fuel pump is operating and I am getting fuel to the injector rail at 38psi. I also have ignition at the spark plugs. Listened to the injectors and there is no clicking and there is no voltage at the plug for the injector. I am looking for a wiring diagram for the EEC system and any ideas on the reason the injectors are not working. HELP!!!!!

[Opera House]

There should be 12V measured at the injectors. Power comes from the EEC relay which could be bad. There is a seperate switch for providing power durring start and run position. The red wire is the 12V line on the injector. The tan and white ones go to the computer.

[ralphrides]

Hi I have a question on hard starting when warm on the same vehicle. I had the fuel pump assembly replaced due to corrosion on the lines. It runs great now but when warm it no longer starts on the first two cranks. I can either do the off and run position to prime the pump prior to cranking twice and it starts faster of just let it crank a couple of seconds. Any ideas on what to check for first? It passed emission testing with lots of head room and idles and runs smooth. I checked the seal on the tube from the throttle to air cleaner and its tight and clean. I guess the first check is the fuel reg pressure prior to start? Is there a pressure port to easily connect to for that? If that is ok whats next? Has 95k miles and the connectors are clean and show no corrosion. I just replaced the EGR diff sensor other than that all parts stock. Thanks.

[Opera House]

One possible problem is the fuel pressure regulator leakdown. Fuel pressure should be 39# prior to starting and should be able to hold that pressure over 30 for at least 30 minutes. Otherwise bubble forms when hot and causes hard starting. There is a check valve in the pump that can also leak as well as injectors. With good emissions, injectors are probably ok. Pump is new, but the check valve could be leaking. I replaced a pump on a Jeep and the pump fell off the rubber hose. Factory had never tightened the clamp. Maybe your clamp wasn't when it was replaced.

There is basically a bicycle valve on the fuel rail that you can measure pressure on. I found it better to unscrew the valve to get accurate readings. My tester doesn't always push in the valve far enough.

[ralphrides]

Thanks for quick reply. I will check the pressure and leak down rate. The fuel pump rubber hose clamps were checked and tight. Possible the check valve within pump is not checking. I will test and let you know. I will really hate to pull tank out again to try new pump assembly. Is there a way to put check valve near regualtor up by rail as option?