Need MAJOR help. 92 Eagle Talon N/T wont start

[Nephest]

Well i just got my talon back in October. I drove it until December 19th and parked it at my house. Left and came back three days later and i went to start it and all it will do is crank.. THATS IT!!. I have put about $120 in it trying to get it started and it still wont start. I have replaced a coil pack, coil wires, fuses, and i have no idea what is wrong. I need help BAD!! Someone out there help please.

[MrZ]

Nephest:
I think we can narrow it down to spark/fuel/ecm. Maybe the order should actually be ecm/spark/fuel.

The first thing I would do is put a voltmeter on the small receptactle under your fuse block, which is under the dash on the far left hand side. Positive lead goes on the tab on the upper left side, negative lead goes on the tab on the lower right side. Turn the ignition to run (not start) with the voltmeter leads on those tabs, and the scale set to 1-10 volts. If the ECM has decided to take a crap on you, the needle will sweep over to the right and stay pegged there. If there are no fault codes at all in the ECM, the needle will continue oscillate from rest to about half way through it's travel and back. If you have fault codes, each long sweep counts as 10 and each short sweep counts as one. Fault codes are displayed one after another by the ECM, and are displayed repeatedly. In other words, if you have a code 22, you will see two long sweeps, then two short, then two long sweeps again, then two short, etc..

If the ecm checks normally, with no fault codes (it's possible), then you need to go to old school techniques to try to find the problem. First thing would be to check for spark at any one of the spark plug wires while cranking the engine. I don't think I need to explain how to do that. If you're getting spark, then obviously the next thing to check for is that you're getting fuel.

Personally, and I may get flamed for this, but I take a hack approach to this and use a squeeze bottle to inject some gasoline right into the throttle body. You have to be careful doing that. I would squirt a small amount, then replace the airfilter ducting, then crank the car over. If the car sputters as though it is going to start, then you know you have a fuel delivery problem, and you work your way backwards in that area. I'm at work, and out of time, so I've got to go!

Keep us posted on your progress, and good luck!

Mark

[Nephest]

OK, well i do know that I am not getting a spark. I have already checked that. I dont have a voltmeter, but i can get one and check out that. Next thing i know is that i have tried the fuel thing with starter fluid. and NOTHING but cranking. So tomorrow i will try and see if i get a fault code. the ECM is the engine computer right? which is located behind the radio?

[Nephest]

Or is the ecm located about 5 inches away from the coil pack and its a little electrical plug, that has a clip with about 10 or so wires?

[MrZ]

Nephest;
The ecm on your car is directly underneath the radio. If you're getting spark it is very unlikely that your ecm is the problem, but you will want to get the code(s) out of it to further evalutate.

There is a small receptacle next to your fuse block under the right side of your dash board. It should have a soft cover on it that you can pull off and move to the side. It has 12 tabs. You put your volt meter on tabs 1 and 12, positive on 1, negative on 12. Tab number 1 is on the upper left side, 12 is bottom right.

My guess, from what you describe, is that the timing belt has jumped, and that your valve timing is off. This, in itself, has no fault code. Pull the top off your timing cover and take a look at the belt. When my first belt went on me it was because several of the cogs on the belt tore right off. You can check the valve timing by jogging the crank around until it is at TDC, then check the two timing marks on the cam sprockets, they should be facing each other, and the keyways for the cam sprockets should be facing straight up on each of the sprockets. Remember, the cams only rotate 1/2 turn per crank revolution, so you may need to jog the crank around to TDC a second time.

Good Luck!

Mark

[Nephest]

Well good news is that my car starts again. The problem was a relay switch that is located by the ECM. Not realy the switch but something was wrong. I had a couple of friends come down and help me. They own a show in Branson, Mo. Well anyway the relay switch has a Power cable and a ground going to it. Well in stead of it working the way it was sopposed to, it had two powers going to it. You could push in the relay part(copper plate) and it would crank over and start. Well i snipped the sopposedly ground cable and wired it to a to toggle, that is grounded. Now i have a kill switch to my car. But it runs.

Now on to the next problem. I have a squeeky belt that i dont like, and is quite embarrasing when you start your car at the races. I have tried belt dressing on it and it didnt cure my problem. What would you suggest for it, and it only does it when its cold.

[1stGenRocks]

check the tension and if that doesn't help replace the belt

[laurie2098]

Hi I am having a similar problem with my 92 Eagle talon tsi fwd. Getting spark but wont start and everytime we try to crank the car over it floods the engine. I NEED HELP ASAP. I look forward to hearing from you.

Originally Posted by MrZ

Nephest;

The ecm on your car is directly underneath the radio. If you're getting spark it is very unlikely that your ecm is the problem, but you will want to get the code(s) out of it to further evalutate.

There is a small receptacle next to your fuse block under the right side of your dash board. It should have a soft cover on it that you can pull off and move to the side. It has 12 tabs. You put your volt meter on tabs 1 and 12, positive on 1, negative on 12. Tab number 1 is on the upper left side, 12 is bottom right.

My guess, from what you describe, is that the timing belt has jumped, and that your valve timing is off. This, in itself, has no fault code. Pull the top off your timing cover and take a look at the belt. When my first belt went on me it was because several of the cogs on the belt tore right off. You can check the valve timing by jogging the crank around until it is at TDC, then check the two timing marks on the cam sprockets, they should be facing each other, and the keyways for the cam sprockets should be facing straight up on each of the sprockets. Remember, the cams only rotate 1/2 turn per crank revolution, so you may need to jog the crank around to TDC a second time.

Good Luck!

Mark

[laurie2098]

I have a 92 Eagle Talon Tsi FwD. I am having problems with it starting. I have changed the fuel pump, coil, spark plugs and wires. I am getting a spark but everytime we crank the car over the engine floods with fuel. My machanic is telling me that i need to purchase a new ECU. It seems as though the car wouldn't crank if I needed an ECU. I was wondering what in the hell could be wrong with the darn thing. I look forward to hearing from anyone PLEASE HELP!!!!!

[pbschnell]

Originally Posted by laurie2098

I have a 92 Eagle Talon Tsi FwD. I am having problems with it starting. I have changed the fuel pump, coil, spark plugs and wires. I am getting a spark but everytime we crank the car over the engine floods with fuel. My machanic is telling me that i need to purchase a new ECU. It seems as though the car wouldn't crank if I needed an ECU. I was wondering what in the hell could be wrong with the darn thing. I look forward to hearing from anyone PLEASE HELP!!!!!

I have the same exact car, and for four months we have been scratching our heads. I replaced the ECU, what a waste, turns out it was the ecu/fuel relay located where the ECU is. Replace that and your car will start. $90.00 if your purchase one brand new, $5.00 if you pull it from the junkyard.

[Blackcrow64]

Originally Posted by pbschnell

I have the same exact car, and for four months we have been scratching our heads. I replaced the ECU, what a waste, turns out it was the ecu/fuel relay located where the ECU is. Replace that and your car will start. $90.00 if your purchase one brand new, $5.00 if you pull it from the junkyard.

And you realize that the last post made in here was over a year ago?...


Seriously people, read the posted dates!!!


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