Parking Brake light won't go out

[1998malibuLS]

Left home for work this morning and when I released the parking brake, the light in the dash would not go out. The "P" and the "I" light stay lit even though the brake has fully released. I imagine that I need to replace a switch, but I was wondering if anybody can tell me where it is, what it looks like, and how hard it is to replace.

Every time I stop, and then proceed again, the warning bell chimes for a few seconds. This made for a rather annoying ride to work.


TIA

[joshzr2]

First, if you haven't already, make absolutely sure that the parking brake is completely released. If it is a hand-operated lever, push in the button and push the lever down really hard. If it's a foot pedal, pull the release lever but do not let go right away. Once the pedal pops up, put your foot behind it and pull up or jerk on it with your hand to make sure it's all the way up. Not exactly sure where the switch is or what it looks like, but it shouldn't be too hard to replace.

[1998malibuLS]

Thanks for the reply Josh. I replaced the switch last Saturday and all is fine now. It wasn't too hard, but I had to remove the control modules that were beside the parking brake before I could even see the switch. Once I got everyting out, it was a quick fix. Took about 45 minutes to complete the job.

[knagl]

Originally Posted by 1998malibuLS

I replaced the switch last Saturday and all is fine now. It wasn't too hard, but I had to remove the control modules that were beside the parking brake before I could even see the switch.

I just had the same thing happen to my car. What does this switch look like, did you have to purchase a replacement switch (where?)? I had an annoying drive home with the thing dinging at me every time I stopped then started...

Thanks for any help you can provide.

[1998malibuLS]

The switch is a small piece of plastic with a flat piece of copper that makes contact when the p. brake is engaged. In my case the copper piece was broken and it fell off as soon as I touched it. I got the part at a GM dealer, I believ it was about 5 bucks.

If you look up above the park brake, you will have to remove the 2 'control modules' and the plastic piece that holds them. Once you get these out you will be able to see the switch.

Once I figured out where it was hiding, it only took about 15 or 20 minutes to change.

Let me know if there is anything else I can do.

Don

[knagl]

Okay. I changed the switch.

I'm writing this for the benefit of someone else who may stumble upon this thread with the same problem.

First... find out how much it will cost to have someone else change it. Seriously.

Part of why it was such a pain for me was that it's the middle of January, and it was about 4 degrees outside -- perhaps about ten degrees warmer in the garage.

Getting at the switch to replace it requires a lot of mobility and dexterity. I was upside down, on my back, laying across the seats with my head under the steering wheel, and everything inbetween to get everything out and then back in.

Tools you'll need:

+ Flashlight
+ Sockets (I used 7 mm, 8 mm, and 10 mm)
+ Socket extension
+ Small, thin, flat-blade screwdriver.
+ Patience. Lots of patience.

Here's what I did:

Remove the molding from the driver's side kick panel (under the steering wheel, between the steering column and the brake/gas pedals).

(I seemed to have more metric sockets available than U.S. -- I'd bet the nuts and bolts are U.S., but I used metric.)

Using a 7 mm socket, unscrew the red bolts that hold the two gray 40-pin connectors into the computer, and gently unplug the connectors.

You should now be able to see where the switch for the parking brake indicator is. Yeah. It's way the heck up there, along the left hand side wall. If you "set" the parking brake far down, you can reach in and barely touch the switch with your fingers (behind the parking brake pedal). Careful that the brake doesn't come unlatched, though, or you'll probably lose your hand. This doesn't do you much good, though, because there's not enough room to work to do what you need. Unlatch the parking brake.

The computer that you just unplugged the two connectors from is sitting in a white plastic housing. Remove the computer by lifting up on the plastic holding it in on the passenger side, while "shifting" the plastic lever (closer to the back seat) to the "unlock" position (not labeled). The computer will then begin to slide out of the housing. Maneuver the computer through the cables, being careful not to put too much strain on the wires, and store it in a safe place.

There are three bolts holding the plastic housing in place. One is easy to get to (passenger side of box). The second is in the center of the housing, accessible only after removing the computer. The third is closest to the driver's side wall, and is an absolute bear to get at. Using an 10 mm socket, remove the three nuts. You will need an extension, at a minimum. It is a balancing act to remove the third nut without losing it, as you have VERY little room to work with.

Once the three nuts are removed, coax the white plastic housing box out of its location. It took a little bit of force to do, and it was also a bear to maneuver it out from under the dash while avoiding damaging any of the hundreds of wires in its way. While I was struggling to take it out, I was wondering exactly how I was going to get it back in, as it was near impossible to get out.

Now you can see and access the switch. Just as 1998malibuLS said, as soon as I touched the leaf on the switch, it fell off in my hand.

Note the location and of the switch, and the direction it is facing. Using an 8 mm socket, remove the screw holding the existing switch in place. Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver, unlatch the white plastic of the switch from the brown (or black?) plug that is attached to the blue wire. Once you have taken the plug out, the switch will be free in your hand. Attach the wire/plug to the new switch, and place the new switch in place along the side wall, and use the bolt you removed to hold the new switch in place.

When I installed the switch, the parking brake was disengaged. I don't know if this is the proper way to do that or not -- the switch should make (be closed, and it's a normally closed switch) when the brake is ENGAGED, and should break (be open) when the brake is DISENGAGED. In other words, the switch is not under pressure when the brake is applied, and is under pressure when the brake is not in use.

Once you have installed the new switch, visually confirm that the switch is closed when the brake is engaged, and open (leaves are separated from each other) when the brake is disengaged.

Now, put everything back!

I don't know how I got the computer housing back into place -- I really don't. I was struggling with it, and then it just popped in. I even managed to get the impossible third nut back into place.

I was trying to be so careful about putting the computer back in the correct direction, but I screwed it up. The side with the printed word "CLEAR" should be facing the passenger side. The side with the printed word "BLUE" should be facing the drivers' side. You'll also note that the two 40-pin plugs are color coded -- one of the female plugs (attached to the mess of wires) is clear in color, while the other is tinted blue. Attach accordingly.

Yeah. My local Chevy dealership wanted around $55 for the labor. In hindsight, I think it would have been worth it to me. I mean, I'm happy that I saved $55, but between the cold, the bending and contorting, and the hassle with getting the computer housing in and out (and that third nut!!!!), I don't think I would go through this again should that part break again. Perhaps a small repair shop would charge less -- I dunno.

The part is GM part number 22654577 . The Chevy dealership wanted $6 and change for it, but they were out of stock. He looked in the computer, and told me to go to the Cadillac dealership down the street. They had the part, and it was $3.22.

In labor, it took me about an hour and a half from start to finish, but that included finding tools along the way, too...

I haven't driven the car yet (I really hope that computer is working!), but I did test it by turning the key to the "on" position, and then latching and unlatching the parking brake, and the light on the dashboard responded. Success! No more emergency brake light stuck on!

I'm tired and sore. Goodnight.

[JoePete]

Just wanted to thank you for this post it was very helpful! I dorve around for 1 1/2 years with the freaking Chime I dont know how but didn't know what or where to fix. So thanks alot! Google does wonders don't know how I lived without it!

[knagl]

One and a half years? I think I dealt with it for one and a half weeks and it was too much!

Good luck with your repair!

[CJ3322]

When you disconnected the computers did you disconnect the negative terminal on the battery or did you leave it connected???

[knagl]

Well... that was three and a half years ago (the Internet is a wonderful thing), so I can't honestly say that I remember.

My gut says that I probably did not disconnect the battery. In hindsight, though, it probably would have been a good idea to do so as to not cause any potential electrical damage to the computer.

[CJ3322]

Hey thanks for all your help, I did it in about 1 1/2 hour. Was not that hard at all and totally not worth having a mechanic do it.

[marlin1]

very helpful thread , got one to do tonight . It's only -12 C so should be fine , lol . Least I have a garage , thanks for the posts , love this website so far