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#1
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b17/b16 tryin to get vibrations out
After the b17 went in on the h/b it vibrates. I want to get as smooth as possible so it dont seem like its a monster trying to get out up out from under the hood. They used mounts and dont know wat brand they r but was wondering if i take out the polyurethane inserts and put in some rubber ones from other mounts that r as similiar or get them made. Its just a theory of mine but am sure someone has had to attempt it. I think that should smooth it out though but how would i go about finding rubber ones. I've looked for aftermarket mounts but nobody makes them w/rubber just the poly stuff. i know the motor gets really stiff which is good but im a dialy not a racer.
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#2
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Re: b17/b16 tryin to get vibrations out
Thats just a downfall of the swap thats a main complaint about them. I see it as if you gonna make it into a race car dont expect it to ride or feel like a luxury car.
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#3
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Re: Re: b17/b16 tryin to get vibrations out
You just gonna have to deal with it man. Every swap is like that. I got HCP 4 mount kit and it dont vibrate much as hasport does.
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#4
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Re: Re: Re: b17/b16 tryin to get vibrations out
Yea the poly mounts do suck, but who ever said performance is comfortable. Those are a need to have item not an i want item. There is no reason to suffer if they aren't required. Remove 1, drive car & see how it feels - keep doing that until its to your liking. I only use the front insert & vibrations aren't so bad/wheel hop decreased slightly.
You could try filling the bushings - http://importnut.net/motormount.htm |
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#5
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my hatch vibrates mostly from 1250 - 3000 rpm range but ive found most of the noise is pieces of the dash, like my glovebox, fuse panel cover, and other small plastic pieces. also i had another bad vibration and it was the heat shroud on my exhaust manifold that i cracked when i bottomed out on some railroad tracks and cracked my oilpan in 2 places too. so if your car is low id check it out, couldnt hurt.
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IM RICK JAMES BITCH |
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#6
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did the installer modify the rear subframe? around the motor mount that is bolted to the subframe, they should have bent and flattened out the weld lip. if not, the big T bracket that attaches the transmission to the motor mount will make contact and send every possible vibration from the engine straight to the body of the car. its like steel mounts on a race car, lot less torque twisting, but more vibrations.
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over 10 grand in parts, and about 300 hours of labor, and i only spent 3k. and then Katrina filled it with mud. |
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