Hello...D15B2 Exploded Diagram

[Magik Si]

Hi guys/gals...how's it going...this is my first post on the forum...I hope that I can help and be helped on here.

History:

For the last three years I have been driving a 90 Civic HB STD that I bought off of my aunt with a D15B1 engine and about (now) 285,000 kms on it, my first car, my baby. I also recently (September) bought a used 90 Civic HB Si for parts to add to my Civic, before you ask there is some thing wrong with the motor that's why I am not driving the Si. Within thirty days I had swapped various parts such as the rims (for winter tires), gauge cluster (for tach) and other various odds and ends.

Current:

Death of a Civic...sigh...this past Friday I got cut off in an intersection by a full size Dodge Ram pick-up...who do you think won? So needless to say, the front end of my Civic is mushed pretty good...likely a write off. I'd post a pic, but I'm not quite sure how to do that here yet. The other driver was completely at fault.
The crappy thing now is I have one Civic smashed that I have no idea what is going to happen to it (insurance hasn't looked at it yet) and an Si with a wiggy motor.

Civic HB Si:

This car is sound all around, I have already taken my new tires off the STD and put them back on it, replacing a couple of studs that I snapped when taking them off in the first place. Body is reasonably good...Everything I took off is back on...here is what's going on with the rest of it...

Engine bay is covered in OIL, strong oil smell (appears like leak & spray)
White Smoke from tail pipe, sometimes blue
ECU flashing a "10" flash (no idea what that means)
Engine light staying on.

The block says that it has a D15B2 in it, and I know that stock it comes with a D16A6, so someone has obviously swapped it for some reason.

Questions:

What is wrong, that you can tell from the info above, with the Si and how do I fix it???

Anyone know where I can get an "exploded diagram" of a D15B2??? (With descriptions...please don't say a "Helms"...I just want something from the net that I can print)



Thanks Guys for all of your future help...and go easy on me...I'm slow when it comes to this stuff...still very much learning...

Jason

[sastanley]

Nice...too bad your Si has the d15b2 in it. If you have $500 or more to spend (from the wrecked car, hopefully you'll get some insurance) it may be easiest to either swap in a d16a6 or something like a ZC or b-series into the Si and not even mess with the motor in there now.

The first thing to check is if the d15b2 is running DPFI or MPFI. the easiest way to tell this is if the intake tube goes into a aluminum style intake manifold (MPFI with 4 injectors), or if it is a black goofy looking thing that is stock on a d15b2 (DPFI, 2 injectors)

here is a shot of a DPFI system...hopefully you don't have this and a motor swap may be your easiest bet!


And, welcome!

There are some dudes around here that have access to some electronic versions of the Helm's manual...but your best bet really is to spend the $60 and buy one

[CZ-R]

My advice - for what it's worth - would be to take whatever $$$ the insurance company gives you (for the STD) and use it for a swap in the Si. Depending on how much you get, and what swap you choose to do, you may even have some money left over...

I wouldn't even bother fixing the D15B2

[Magik Si]

Originally Posted by sastanley

Nice...too bad your Si has the d15b2 in it. If you have $500 or more to spend (from the wrecked car, hopefully you'll get some insurance) it may be easiest to either swap in a d16a6 or something like a ZC or b-series into the Si and not even mess with the motor in there now.

The first thing to check is if the d15b2 is running DPFI or MPFI. the easiest way to tell this is if the intake tube goes into a aluminum style intake manifold (MPFI with 4 injectors), or if it is a black goofy looking thing that is stock on a d15b2 (DPFI, 2 injectors)

here is a shot of a DPFI system...hopefully you don't have this and a motor swap may be your easiest bet!


And, welcome!

There are some dudes around here that have access to some electronic versions of the Helm's manual...but your best bet really is to spend the $60 and buy one

As per your picture...that is what is on my STD the DPFI...the Si had the long silver "tube" that would be the MPFI.

As far as the engine...I'm only getting $1000.00 (Canadian) from the STD and they are allowing me to keep the car...so I have an Si with a wiggy engine and a smashed STD with a good engine (D15B1) that was extremely fuel efficient. If I can fix my Si B2 and have it running properly great...simpler...cheap, perhaps. If not cheap, then I have the B1 just sitting there. But I have to do something...soon.
(oh...what other civic did the d16a6 come in?)

Thanks

Jason

[sastanley]

Originally Posted by Magik Si

(oh...what other civic did the d16a6 come in?)

Thanks

Jason

The EX sedan here in the states. Maybe you got those up there too..They were the only sedans to come with 14" wheels stock from Honda (like the Si Hatchie)

If you decide to swap the d15b2 out of the Si, you'd probably have to re-re-wire it back to MPFI. It shouldn't be too bad, just a little more work. That pic is of my current engine(a d15b2). I chose to buy a ZC to replace it (which is a little stronger than a d16a6 at 130HP) but I have been too lazy to put it in since although not real strong, this bitch keeps running and running (218k miles currently). I'll have to wire from DPFI to MPFI when I do my swap too. I was hoping that whomever (or whatever) had happened to the d16a6 in your Si, they mighta left the MPFI manifold on there (inlcuding MPFI wiring)

$1000 CDN isn't too bad..I think you'd be even less happy with the d15b1 in the Si, because it is heavier than the STD car, but as you said...a very fuel efficient engine. There is a link to the Helms' manual on the web, and I am sure someone will see this post and throw it up here (like AMI ) - in the meantime, have you thought about cleaning up the engine bay so you have a better idea what the issue is and where that oil may be coming from? I have noticed that as Honda engines age, the valve covers/gaskets, especially around the distributor, really like to leak a lot and make a damn mess!

Does the engine run at all? - According to the FAQ - http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=118785 - a code 10 is Intake Air Temp - you may want to reset the ECU (pull the ECU fuse under the hood for 10 mins) and then see what code it throws.
-Shawn

[Magik Si]

Originally Posted by sastanley

If you decide to swap the d15b2 out of the Si, you'd probably have to re-re-wire it back to MPFI. It shouldn't be too bad, just a little more work. That pic is of my current engine(a d15b2). I chose to buy a ZC to replace it (which is a little stronger than a d16a6 at 130HP) but I have been too lazy to put it in since although not real strong, this bitch keeps running and running (218k miles currently). I'll have to wire from DPFI to MPFI when I do my swap too. I was hoping that whomever (or whatever) had happened to the d16a6 in your Si, they mighta left the MPFI manifold on there (inlcuding MPFI wiring)

$1000 CDN isn't too bad..I think you'd be even less happy with the d15b1 in the Si, because it is heavier than the STD car, but as you said...a very fuel efficient engine. There is a link to the Helms' manual on the web, and I am sure someone will see this post and throw it up here (like AMI ) - in the meantime, have you thought about cleaning up the engine bay so you have a better idea what the issue is and where that oil may be coming from? I have noticed that as Honda engines age, the valve covers/gaskets, especially around the distributor, really like to leak a lot and make a damn mess!

Does the engine run at all? - According to the FAQ - http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=118785 - a code 10 is Intake Air Temp - you may want to reset the ECU (pull the ECU fuse under the hood for 10 mins) and then see what code it throws.
-Shawn

The SI is MPFI already? (maybe I explained that wrong)...on the D15B2

The valve cove gasket...hmmm...would that cause the engine to smoke??

Yes the car runs...I've been driving it for a week now. Had the oil changed, battery checked, anti-freeze checked,...have since discovered that the IAT is not working properly as the harness from it has somehow been pulled out (bare wire)...otherwise I was just going to take the sensor off the STD...haven't discovered if I can use the same harness or not.

Also, there is and odd sound...when I turn the wheel to the right, it sounds like the tire is rubbing (it's not), straight, and left it doesn't do that, it's worse at higher speeds?<<<What would cause this???

Thanks

Jason

[sastanley]

The Si was originally MPFI when it had the d16a6. I can't believe that someone would swap out a d16a6 MPFI motor (108hp), and put in a d15b2 DPFI motor (92hp) - but I have seen weirder things. If you hadn't said you saw d15b2 on the block I wouldn't believe you.

As for the rubbing, i dunno? Does the car pull to one side or the other when you drive it? Hopefully it wasn't in an accident.


What kind of smoking??
out the tailpipe?
under the hood?
what color is the smoke? blue-ish?? white (steam)??
Does it only do it when the engine is cold??
when you stomp on the gas and run it hard??

All these can indicate different things, from bad piston rings, to a bad head gasket, to bad valve seals, etc.. to something completely different I don't know about ( i am not an expert, I have just had enough Hondas with these issues before )

[CZ-R]

Originally Posted by Magik Si

The valve cove gasket...hmmm...would that cause the engine to smoke??

Also, there is and odd sound...when I turn the wheel to the right, it sounds like the tire is rubbing (it's not), straight, and left it doesn't do that, it's worse at higher speeds?<<<What would cause this???

Yes, if the valve cover gasket is bad oil can leak onto the block or exhaust manifold causing smoke. If antifreeze is leaking it'll also look like it's smoking.

As for the odd sound... Is it a kind of grinding noise? If so it's probably your cv joints. Easiest way to fix that is to replace the axle(s) <-- whichever one is bad.

I'd clean the hell out of the engine compartment first & then try to see where the oil could be/is coming from. Best way to clean it is to get a few cans of Brake Cleaner, Engine Degreaser, or even Simple Green & spray every inch - then hose it all off. Oh, make sure you put a plastic bag around the distributor & if you have an intake, wrap the air filter as well...

[Magik Si]

This is to answer both of you that responded:

No not a grinding noise...a "rubbing" noise...grinding indicates more metal on metal, this is more like something rubber turning and "rubbing" against something stationary...

It has been suggested: Wheel Bearing?


As far as the swapping of the A6 for the B2...not sure what occurred here...but it has happened...I believe the original A6 was just fried...and they found a B2 that would swap in and did it. They left the injsection system of the Si in it and put in the B2...yes, I have seen the B2 on the engine.
As far as cleaning it...I was gonna do that this week...but we just got 2 feet of snow in the last 36 hours and it's a little difficult to find the hose

Kind of smoke = blue /sometimes white / sometimes none.
Out the tailpipe = yes (also strong burnt oil smell around outside of car)
Under the hood = no smoke coming from that area.
Only When Cold = different time...ie. warmed the car up for about 10minutes this morning and then drove about 4 miles...that when I noticed it start to smoke.

Stop on the gas - Is there really a point to that? Kidding...not that I've noticed...mainly when i'm driving at a steady speed.

Jason

[sastanley]

If they left the injection system from the a6, then you most likely still have the MPFI setup, which only means that if you were to swap to a high HP output motor (any b-series, another a6 or a ZC) you'd already have the MPFI business taken care of = less hassle to swap. What that also means is that if the engine were in good shape, you could possibly be putting out almost as much HP with the b2 as an a6

A wheel bearing could be the culprit..I often equate a bad wheel bearing sound to an extremely out of balance tire or like the way those big swamp rat tires sound that peeps put on their big-ass trucks when they drive on the street. if the wheel bearing is bad/failing, you should be able to smell the burnt grease in/around the wheel area...be careful not to burn yourself on the hot-ass brakes.. - another way to test it could be to jack up the car and see how well the wheel free-spins compared to others on the car. Again, I think you would be able to hear/feel the dragging of a bad bearing in this case. My step-dad used to shake the hell out of the wheel to see how much play it has, but be careful not to shake it off the jack...I guess a li'l tiny bit of play is OK, but a lot is bad

As for the smoke:
blue smoke when cold can indicate bad valves/seals (oil drips into cylinders and burns as blue smoke when cold...usually not an issue after engine is warm)
white smoke can indicate antifreeze in cylinders - bad head gasket? - this is usually pretty bad..engines don't usually last long after this issue in my experience...some peeps like BLUCIVIC can get there's to keep running forever.
Smoke when stomping gas @ high RPM can indicate bad rings (blow-by)
Smoke at steady speed could indicate worse rings..meaning those bitches let oil by all the time, not just under high load/RPM situations.

The strong smell could be caused by oil/grease/etc...getting on the exhaust too...I usually spill some on my collector when I change the oil and it smells and burns off later. Clean up the engine bay when the snow melts and we'll go from there

[Ace$nyper]

hmmm your a noob but seem to be well not noobish. me likes this one. hope all your car troubles work out soon.

[Magik Si]

Originally Posted by Ace$nyper

hmmm your a noob but seem to be well not noobish. me likes this one. hope all your car troubles work out soon.

LOL...thanks.

[Magik Si]

Originally Posted by sastanley

If they left the injection system from the a6, then you most likely still have the MPFI setup, which only means that if you were to swap to a high HP output motor (any b-series, another a6 or a ZC) you'd already have the MPFI business taken care of = less hassle to swap. What that also means is that if the engine were in good shape, you could possibly be putting out almost as much HP with the b2 as an a6

A wheel bearing could be the culprit..I often equate a bad wheel bearing sound to an extremely out of balance tire or like the way those big swamp rat tires sound that peeps put on their big-ass trucks when they drive on the street. if the wheel bearing is bad/failing, you should be able to smell the burnt grease in/around the wheel area...be careful not to burn yourself on the hot-ass brakes.. - another way to test it could be to jack up the car and see how well the wheel free-spins compared to others on the car. Again, I think you would be able to hear/feel the dragging of a bad bearing in this case. My step-dad used to shake the hell out of the wheel to see how much play it has, but be careful not to shake it off the jack...I guess a li'l tiny bit of play is OK, but a lot is bad

As far as the MPFI...I'll try and get a picture of the unit tonight and maybe someone can tell me exactly what I have...as a starting point. But I do believe that it is the Si unit. I have also heard the the Si injection on the D15B2 will produce better output than the A6...no idea if that's true or not.

As far as the wheel bearing...the guy at the Honda parts desk just told me that (and this is odd) that if I'm hearing the sound on the right side then it is the "left" bearing that is going (turning right)...that doesn't make sense to me...does it to anyone else?

Thanks guys.

Jason

[sastanley]

Originally Posted by Magik Si

As far as the MPFI...I'll try and get a picture of the unit tonight and maybe someone can tell me exactly what I have...as a starting point. But I do believe that it is the Si unit. I have also heard the the Si injection on the D15B2 will produce better output than the A6...no idea if that's true or not.

As far as the wheel bearing...the guy at the Honda parts desk just told me that (and this is odd) that if I'm hearing the sound on the right side then it is the "left" bearing that is going (turning right)...that doesn't make sense to me...does it to anyone else?

Thanks guys.

Jason

Nope it doesn't make any sense to me...also FYI - as you get more into this car fixing thing...here is an OEM car parts site that should help save lotsa $$$...The only catch that every order has like an $8 "handling fee" - so try to group a handful of parts together to make it worth while. I find the break-even point tends to be somewhere around $50 (US )worth of parts, as they tend to be at least 20% cheaper than any place you walk into for parts (i.e. local Honda deaeler)
www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
-Shawn

[Magik Si]

Originally Posted by sastanley

Nope it doesn't make any sense to me...also FYI - as you get more into this car fixing thing...here is an OEM car parts site that should help save lotsa $$$...The only catch that every order has like an $8 "handling fee" - so try to group a handful of parts together to make it worth while. I find the break-even point tends to be somewhere around $50 (US )worth of parts, as they tend to be at least 20% cheaper than any place you walk into for parts (i.e. local Honda deaeler)
www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
-Shawn

Shawn

...and your description of the "fat ass tires" is exactly what it sounds like.
I know that site quite well...biggest problem is with the exchange and border crap...it can get costlier...but it's a thought, thanks.
It really sucks...because my STD was working like a top...I had at least a couple more years out of that one...at least.
I'll get engine pics in a couple of hours...

Jason

PS> What part of the world are you in...and thanks for being so helpful!