clutch preference ?

[nhockett]

Seems that an Act 2600 is the most popular for our application. (I have a 92 GSX). It runs around $390 new and a Centerforce clutch goes for $375. There is also I think a 2100 and 2900. I'm trying to plan ahead for a bigger setup later and wanted to know what you prefer, what will last longer, things I don't know about, etc. Thanks for the help.

[smokeurass]

Yes, the act 2600 LBS clutch is your best bet. I can't be so sure but All the big boys use it. GSXracer, at his POSracing.net site, they use em....Im planing on purchasing it too with all my other mods.

[quiktsi]

What is your HP rating. Under 270 go with the 2100 if you are above that than get the 2600. Little hard the left leg but worth the effort. Also look into clutchnet their pressure plate is stronger than act with better springs Believe me.

[nhockett]

Still have a 14b. Until the engine is broken in I will not mess with boost. 3 inch exhaust, porting, filter, no big mods. I'm planning on putting a big turbo on next summer. I would rather have the 2600 then as I will definately be over 270. Is it going to drive rough until then if I get the 2600?

[soyee7]

THe 2600 is great, my factory used to slip, but no more. ACT makes an awsome clutch!

[kjewer1]

If you have AWD always go for the 2600. The tires dont slip, so the clutch usually gives first. For a FWD, the 2100 sually makes more sense. The tires will give before a 2100 does, but at the same time long hard slipping is common on FWD launches. But thats more about friction material than clamping force. At any rate, try to stick to the brands that work well on dSMs. ACT, RPS, etc. Avoid most of the other ones. They just dont seem to hold up on AWD DSMs. Do some research on tuners and talk if anyone is considering another clutch brand. People there have tried just about every type of clutch.

[goneturbo]

i was just wondering if there was an update to what you bought. I am doing a couple of clutch upgrades soon. I am using clutchnet on my car and was thinking using it for my friends DSM. I was hoping to see if you get a clutchnet disc?

[nhockett]

I ended up going with an ACT 2600. I have some problems right now with the clutch not disengaging sometimes. The gears grind when I shift sometimes. Kind of a long explanation. Reverse and second seem to be the worst. If I start the car in reverse it will move backwards with the clutch 'supposidly' completely disengaged. I have been told it is the pressure plate falling apart. When the car is warm it doesn't act up as bad. I don't know if there is anything wrong with the ACT 2600 (defect) or if something needs adjusted. My tranny has always been harder than hell to shift (it is seriously a pain in the ass finding 1st) so maybe it is just a linkage!?! Anyway Act seems to be pretty reputable (according to other people) and I wouldn't discourage anyone from buying one at this point. I may have gotten a shyte one or it may be something else. I do not know anything about a clutchnet disc besides 'quicktsi' recommends it.

Good Luck
Nate

[kjewer1]

It needs to be adjusted. Always adjust everything after a clutch swap. Go to:

www.teamrip.com
www.taboospeedshop.com

For instructions...

[nhockett]

Thanks for the links. If I have trouble I'll post... I took the car to a shop to see if they could adjust it 2 months ago and they swore the pressure plate was falling apart. Of course they wanted to take the tranny off and check things out. Yeah... Anyway, I was told there was no way to adjust it so I was just going to deal with it.

Thanks again
Nate

[kjewer1]

There are several adjustments. The cruise cut switch, push rod, and shimming the ball stud (the last one there requires the tranny to be removed, hopefully it doenst com to that). You also have to be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN its bleed completely. Any air in the line with a heavy clutch will flush your ability to shift down the toilet, and any gers with less than perfect syncrhos will seem impossibleto get into. (second is the first to go typically, and reverse has no synchro, hence your trouble with those gears )

[JoeWagon]

Short of a transmission 101 lesson, what is the advantage of synchros? I haven't looked at what the technical definition of a synchro is, but I assume it's something that lets you get into a gear easier without rev-matching. Would upshifting without a synchro grind like reverse does if you try to shift in while moving? (tach at idle, reverse gear already moving)

EDIT>> On clutches, will a 2600 hold a 5500rpm dump, and how hard is that on the driveline, where my stock clutch just spins off the line (doh!)? Sorry about the OT

[kjewer1]

We have syncromesh transmissions, which basically means they are constant mess (the gears are all always engaged, you dont actually shift into or out of "gear") and it uses synchros. They do jsut what the name implies. They synchronize the speed of the gear you are selecting to the speed of the input and intermediate shafts, which is determined by rpm and road speed. So they do the revmatching for you, as you suspected. All modern produciton car manual trasmisions are the synchromesh type...

I use 2600s, and I do literally hundreds of drag passes a year, all ata 5500 rpm launch rpm with ~10 psi on the stutter. It holds it fine, except when i am getting gear oil on the disc, apparently The driveline will take it if you launch appropriately. Even my 1.5s feel quite gentle compared to how I see some other people driving, or to how I used to drive. There was a time when I would put in a new 2600 and break the transmission within a few k miles. Its all about proper technique, the proper amount of slipping. You would never "dump" the clutch. I get my best 60 foot times by FAR by slipping the clutch out quickly. Dumping it will bog even a small turbo setup and you'll be waiting for boost again in first. In my case I'll never see it again in first, I'll have to wait for the top of second. That makes a huge difference in your ET.

[nhockett]

I have had trouble shifting even before I changed the clutch. I changed the clutch when I pulled the engine to have it rebuilt. When I put it all back together, the shift linkages were all messed up and I couldn't find anything but 4th if I remember (not drivable at all). So I screwed around with these adjustments and had to cut part of the threads on the linkage for more room. Then it seemed to shift fine. I was told the car had a 'high performance clutch' when I bought it but I wouldn't bet on it. It has always kind of been a pos (Kevin- you should be able to appreciate that). I will bleed the system and look into the cruise cut switch and pushrod. Thanks again for getting me on the right track

Nate

[nhockett]

I bleed the clutch with the help of an 'experienced, weekend warrior' type of friend. We also adjusted the cruise cut switch and the push rod. The car is still difficult to shift especially to find first. Still harder than any car I have ever driven but at early diagnosis it seems better than it was. When the car is parked I can find all gears with ease w/o using the clutch pedal. It shifts beautifully. But when I am driving it seems to get caught up on the gears a little like getting into the gears is a two step process...first it goes half way and then it goes in properly. Sounds like I need to do some more work on the shifter itself and/or the transmission linkages. I don't intend to be a nuissance but do these new details sound like I'll have to have the tranny pulled? Do you think the synchros are going out? I was told they were replaced recently but everything I was told had been replaced before I bought the car, I have since replaced myself. AHHHHHHHHHHH!