Looking for information on the 2.7 engines

[RCSMG]

I am looking for proof that the 2.7 engines that Dodge put in the Intrepids have design flaws. I will be talking to an attorney about mine on Monday December 1, 2003. If you have any please send it to me.

[Jporter12]

Sorry, but I don't see any design "Flaws", they just don't like to have maintanence neglected on them. I like the design of them, I just don't like how expensive they are to repair! I own one, and I've never had any problems with mine, but I worked on one at the shop that they had let the oil level get low on, and that was all it took! Couldn't produce enough oil pressure to keep the timing chain under enough tension.

If you'd like to specify what "flaws" you're referring to, I'm sure I've seen enough of this engine to at least make a comment!

[RCSMG]

Originally Posted by Jporter12

Sorry, but I don't see any design "Flaws", they just don't like to have maintanence neglected on them. I like the design of them, I just don't like how expensive they are to repair! I own one, and I've never had any problems with mine, but I worked on one at the shop that they had let the oil level get low on, and that was all it took! Couldn't produce enough oil pressure to keep the timing chain under enough tension.

If you'd like to specify what "flaws" you're referring to, I'm sure I've seen enough of this engine to at least make a comment!

Right now the temperature gauge on the car usually reads cold and the heat doesn't get hot anymore. I am also experiencing a type of rattle in the engine after it has run for awhile. Any suggestions?

[Jporter12]

Have you checked your coolant level? On most of them you have to pull the cap off and look down into the reservoir to really be able to see it. The bleeder in the water outlet housing is a common leak. New housing costs about $50 I think, and it's about an hour to change it.

Can you describe the rattle a bit more? The last one I worked on that had a noise in the engine sounded sort of like a roulette wheel (that's how the owner described it!) That's the one with low oil pressure. It's possible that if you are low on coolant that you've overheated the bottom end of the engine from a lack of coolant flow, causing the bearings to wear, thereby reducing oil pressure. The coolant has to be flowing in order for the sensor to read it properly, and it will read cold when just reading airm or steam....

I hope this isn't your problem, just the first thing that comes to mind.

[calgary_redneck]

The 2.7 is a defective engine there actually has been talk of people putting together a class action law suit over it. It seems to suffer from sever slug build up which dodge has been blaming on owners so far but it seems to be happening to cars that have had impecible maintenance so there obviously is a problem there. Do a searth on the net for "sludge build up" you will find alot of info or else go to carreview.com

[RCSMG]

Hey CR, if you ever hear about where the group is that is considering starting a class action suit would you let me know. I am severly interested. Thanks a lot.

[ThunderPuppy]

Do an internet search with the words sludge and intrepid. You will find a lot of info. The best site is http://www.hillsgarage.com/Dodge_Int...ne_Failure.htm

There are many individuals forming class action suits, but the biggest one is at http://www.bigclassaction.com/automotive.html.

Many Dodge Intrepid owners are now switching to full synthetic oil to avoid the sludge problem.

Good Luck!

[longhorn11]

this is a common problem on these engines. the heat won't work right and the rattle. I have the same engine and it is recommended by other owners that the oil should be flushed and if possible the oil pan should be taken out to see if there is sludge. a good sign is looking inside the oil cap for sludge. after the engine is flushed it is recommended that you use synthetic oil to avoid the sludge problem. i have it in my car and i have no problems with the sludge. you should check out this engine on the web, use google and put in " dodge 2.7 litre engine problems" see what comes up. you will be amazed.

[chigger_ns]

It seems like you guys are having alot of problems with your 2.7 cars.
my2000 intepid is running great. Im impressed with the power it has for such a big car. Maybe I have a good one!
I check my fluids and change the oil every3000 miles.
No heat sounds like a head gasket or really low coolant.

GOOD LUCK!

[Jporter12]

I am very happy with my 2.7. It's going on 106k miles, and no sign of sludge.

I do however, have a problem with it. There is a valve guide problem on the left side head. I started hearing a ticking sound a couple months ago on a 600 mile round trip. I checked the oil pressure with a test gauge, and it exceeds Chrysler's spec. In fact, it almost ruined my mechanical gauge by maxing it out! I have narrowed it down to a valve guide problem, due to the fact that after it idles for a couple minutes, when I accelerate I get a puff of smoke. I attribute this failure to my driving style, I am a very aggressive driver! This engine has seen redline many times! I have been driving it easier now, keeping the RPM's below 3500 (where the ticking gets worse, but only when it shifts, or the load on the engine becomes pretty low).

I will be tearing it down as soon as the backordered parts for my other car arrive and I get it running! I'll be sure to post an update on what I find! I'm just not ready to jump on the bandwagon of how "bad" the 2.7 is.

[cookie19542001]

have a 2001 2.7- currently in the garage-engine failure at 70000 miles.
still working on extended warranty-- on subject of synthetic- we did use mobil 1- we are firm believers in this oil-have used on other GM vehicles in the past and all are good. Only consideration on the 2.7 is the fact that we bought the car w/ 30,000 miles on it and then switched to mobil 1 synthetic- engine went fast- one day ok- next day knocking. One might conclude unless you put synthetic in from start- (new engine) it may not be as effective to control sludge.

[wafrederick]

Convert it to 3.2,Better than the 2.7 and lasts longer.I did one so far, but it was a 1999 Chrysler Concorde with a blown up 2.7.It was one of my father's used car lot cars.My father test drove after I convert it to a 3.2 and ran a whole lot better.An used Intrepid is worth less with a 2.7 and one with a 3.2 is worth more.I remember my father watched a couple of them go through with a blown up 2.7 andthey went for $1800.00 from a dealer only car auction.It had to pushed or towed through because of the blown up 2.7.

[floyd7000]

Its not the sludge; it is the bearings and the aluminum rub coming off when any of the components contact the aluminum and scrape it. I have seen the bearing plate come off like a dime store plated ring. It just starts to flake off and then you have the "knock." This flaking is caused by defective bearing material application and bearings put in backward and or the wrong size bearings and wrong cut crankshaft. When the bearings start to go the aluminum "flack" is seen in the oil and is distributed to the oil galleries sometimes but mainly stays on the crank and eats the bearings up and produces the noise and eventual burn out on the rods causing rod and cap failures. Bearing problems only.

[danno25]

I bought a used 2000 intrepid in Jan of 2005. It had 85 k miles, all highway (salesman). Very clean, no problems. Oil change receipts from day 1, every 5k or so. Since then, I have been reading about the engine sludge problems...confirmed by my Dodge service guy...something about some drain inside the engine being too small causing sludge to build up. ANyway, i have none. My Cam shaft position sensor went bad, causing starting problems. I replaced it (quite easy) and noticed NO sludge on the old one (which is located at the TOP of the timing housing, so I am not sure if this is significant or not). In summary, my engine is a-ok. Unfortunately, my AC has lost its cool...and don't ask me about changing the battery

[Jporter12]

I should've updated this sooner! My issue turned out to be a single rod bearing. I had the heads off and did a valve job, all new lifters (they would not quit ticking, and caused low oil pressure) of course timing chain tensioner, and gaskets. It would've been about a $2500 job though! Thankfully, I work in a shop and do all the work myself. I still had around $1000 in parts and valve job.

Anyway, I've put about 10-15 k miles on it since without incident! I don't drive it as hard as before, due to gas prices though!